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"Clean" wax

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
I'm looking for a hydrcarbon wax that goes on well, and after curing scrapes off cleanly. The stuff I'm using is really sticky, even after 24 hours dry time.

I'd prefer that it would come off "dry".

Any suggestions?
post #2 of 20
Out of curiosity, what are you using?
post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
Slide. It's very soft, but they say it's built to be like that.

Perhaps the "cleanliness" is simply a function of hardness?

Anyone use Kuu mach II blue? It's so &$%*&^%* hard, I'm quite worried I'll chip it when I scrape. I'm giving it a 2 hr cure before a long very light scraping session.
post #4 of 20
For the hard wax issue you might consider using a metal scraper at a very shallow angle with little pressure and gradually increase angle and pressure as you get a sense of how it's coming off. Another option is to reheat the wax with a brown paper bag, low lint paper towel or best, fiberlene between iron and base.

I haven't seen the sticky issue with either the KUU or Maplus hydrocarbons. They both have scraped well for me.
post #5 of 20
Thread Starter 
The KUU worked well, once it cured. Gentle scraping was key. The difficulty with this extra hard was is that you need to give it time to adhere to the base. It would probably work even better at 4 hrs cure time, than the 2 I gave it. And still, there was one sport on the base that it wanted to chip off. I think that problem was user error: one must make sure that the bases are very hot all over, not just that the base is wet with wax. It takes extra time to heat the base so that the very hard wax will stick.
post #6 of 20
Sticky wax? And it's not klister? Strange.

Any "regular" hydrocarbon wax should scrape off well, whether CH10 or CH4.

I wouldn't obsess over the curing time. (You're not hotboxing, right?) Once it's cool to the touch, and the topside of the ski matches the ambient temperature, you're ready to scrape. That's it.

You're writing about "mak[ing] sure that the bases are very hot all over." Even for cold/hard waxes, once your iron temp is right (to melt, not to burn/smoke the wax), that should be plenty warm to get your wax in just fine. Check the online tutorials at the Swix and Toko sites. Toko advises only one ironing pass for any wax. No preheating.

When an XC ski coach tries to wax one of his racers' skis on race day and sees that the wax is coming off in clumps and all messy like instead of "ribbon candy curls," he will scold that racer pretty hard for ironing too hot sometime before and searing the bases.

This can be fixed in one of two ways: 1) a stone grind; 2) new skis.
post #7 of 20
Thread Starter 
Hmmm. I don't think the bases are seared.

After brushing etc, the wax has stayed on through quite a bit of skiing. It has not been abraded away, and I've skiied on lots of man-made snow. The wax seems to wear quite well, it's just the softness/stickiness. It does not come off in clumps, it does come off in curls, but bits of the curls really like to stick to the scraper and get gummy.

I like the idea of a wax that leaves the scraper clean.
post #8 of 20
post #9 of 20
Thread Starter 
I used blue for the man-made.
post #10 of 20
In that temp (and sort of price) range I've used and like Nobi Blue, Purl, and CH6, but all of them need a bit of brush work to get rid of static (the scrapings do cling to the scraper).
post #11 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigE View Post
Hmmm. I don't think the bases are seared.

After brushing etc, the wax has stayed on through quite a bit of skiing. It has not been abraded away, and I've skiied on lots of man-made snow. The wax seems to wear quite well, it's just the softness/stickiness. It does not come off in clumps, it does come off in curls, but bits of the curls really like to stick to the scraper and get gummy.

I like the idea of a wax that leaves the scraper clean.
Well, this sounds normal, actually. Like Comprex said, even "blue" wax, e.g. CH6, will still stick to the scraper sometimes. Wax softer than that definitely will. It's not like planing wood.

I just flip my scraper a lot until I have to use my file card to brush the wax off the scraper. No problem.

CH4 will leave the scraper pretty clean. Just don't inhale too closely.
post #12 of 20
Thread Starter 
What is bizarre, is that pure paraffin scrapes off cleaner than this stuff! The red is even more sticky.
post #13 of 20

That's IT!

Imagonnagetsome, just to putz around with. Particularly curious as to how it behaves around skin glue.
post #14 of 20
I've used KUU Mach II Blue for years. It's the best wax I've seen for very cold race nights, single digits Fahrenheit and below. I agree putting it on is a pain, as is cleaning it back out.
(The following information has been gleaned from talking to a friend who is an experienced and professional wax room tech, emails to KUU, and my own experience with KUU waxes)
The wax is supposed to be scraped off warm, I only let it set a minute or so. I apply with my iron set about 150 degrees Celsius. When you drip it on you'll notice that it drips on with fairly small drops. Typically I have to put the iron directly on top of the drops or else they'll pop off the ski when I try and iron them in. Once melted in the wax irons in like a normal wax.
After scrapping I brush with a bronze brush, the wax is too hard for nylon brushes initially. I'll finish with a medium nylon brush.
Cleaning all the Mach II waxes out requires wax cleaner, You won't get them out by hot scraping. The problem is the Mach II waxes are blended with silicon and the hot wax you're cleaning with won't bind with it and so won't pull it out when you scrape off the cleaning wax. I use citrus to clean the base and then brush out with a steel bristle brush. That does the trick.
Like I said earlier, Mach II Blue is the best wax I've used for very cold nights. It's just a pain to work with.
post #15 of 20
Welcome eckman914.

The procedure you describe for KUU Mach II Blue has a lot of similarity to the consensus procedure for other super-cold wax like Swix CH4 (green).

Interesting about the silicone.
post #16 of 20
I went back through my emails and double checked the response I got from KUU about MACH II Blue (btw the KUU people seem very helpful).

He recommended scrapping the wax off "immediately". I've tried that and I think I get a better application letting it sit for a bit. However it's still pretty warm when I start scrapping.

He also said you should be able to hot scrap it off when cleaning your base, but my wax room friend disagrees with that. He says he got that information from the KUU rep. Also it's interesting that KUU's "Tuning Manual" on their website (http://www.kuu.com/tuningmanual2.pdf) recommends cleaning your base with base cleaner rather than hot scrapping.
post #17 of 20
For the money, I've used both Hertel Hot Sauce (probably has some flouro in it though) and some SVST Ultra universal wax. White bar available in either a smaller package (2.5 oz) or a big brick of 10 oz. I started with this when Hertel was trying to sell or get out of the business a few years back. Race-Werks and a few other SVST places handle it.
post #18 of 20
I have some high silicone wax/additive made by Holemenkol for wet weather that is sticky also...real mess to work with.
post #19 of 20
How well does it cork?
post #20 of 20
If that question was for me...wouldnt know I only iron it on.
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