or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Questions from a New Tuner

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
I've been tuning with good success for the last season and a half. Starting with a multitool and evolving to using a 3 degree edge guide using the stone, file (when needed), stone method. Over that time I've had some questions. Does anyone have an opinion of the relative merits of DMT vs. Moonflex stones, plastic vs metal scrapers for wax and Simple Green vs citrus base cleaner? When waxing should I be concerned about breathing fumes from regular hydrocarbon wax. This forum has been very helpful, thanks for the opinions.
post #2 of 7

i've only used DMT stones, so I don't have an opinion on the 2 stones. A plastic scraper is for removing excess wax after using iron on hot wax. It doesn't remove any texture or structor of the base of the ski. Once the factory base structor is scraped off (by using a metal scraper), the ski loses it's fast glide. Then the base has to be ground to restructor it (not as good as the factory job).

Regular hydrocarbon waxes (such as Swix ch7) does not produce toxic fumes and any wax should only be heated to the point where no smoke is produced. Where there is a problem, is where floro waxes are overheated producing florocarbons.

post #3 of 7
I have used both DMT and Moonflex stones. I must say that I really love the Moonflex stones. IMHO, they just seem to cut/polish smoother. If you can get a deal on Moonflexes go for it! If not just stick with the DMT stones. Both will get the job done.
post #4 of 7
Agreed with both the comments above except I don't think a metal scraper will remove structure (but i could be wrong.) However the plastic is for wax removal, the metal is good to smooth out ptex repairs after taking it down with a panzar file. Also to clean off loose ptex hairs after a brash brushing.

As to the diamonds, many folks swear by the moonflex stones, I use DMT's mostly and do have a red moonflex that I use as well.

As to base cleaner I have been told many times not to use the solvents as they dry out your base. It is better to do a hot scrape wax cleaning when necessary. That is melt wax on, wait maybe 30 seconds then scrape it off with a plastic scraper. Then repeat at least once if not twice. When finished then apply wax and let it dry either for a 1/2 hour or so, or longer (overnight) before scraping off.

I then follow with a brass brush then a horsehair brush. I also use a clean paint brush between passes to brush off the loose wax shavings and powder from the pass before.
post #5 of 7
The base cleaning debate continues. FWIW I have had no issues using cleaners of all types. I usually get wax back on quickly though.
They save time, mess and conserve wax and it's cost. I'm not sure that Simple Green removes wax, but does dirt and grim. Citrus cleaners do both.

You can remove base material and structure with a metal scraper. You can also wrap sandpaper around the scraper and replace the structure. Also, stiff metal brushes or rilling tools work for structuring. I have had to use a metal scraper and metal brushing with hard waxes where plexi scrapers weren't working.
post #6 of 7
get a plastic scraper and some dry wall screen to keep it sharp. A sharp plastic scraper will take off all but the hardest wax.
post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the info.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs