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Anyone use Vallorbe ICECUT files? - Page 2

post #31 of 45

jzmtl,

 

Do you have data or experience using them for sharpening skis or otherwise?

 

Honestly I don't know how I would judge the life myself as my file life is variable depending on how many work hardened burrs I hit on the edge, but I'm interested in actual experience.  If the file is harder than the edges, a little improvement could make a big difference. 

post #32 of 45
No actual experience with file, but quite a bit with cutlery steel, which more or less are the same thing. File see usually made of W1 steel, and harden to 60+hrc , high end stainless steel are 61~65hrc, but tend to be more brittle. They will last a bit longer than W1 if W1 doesn't rust, but not even 2x as long.
post #33 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by litterbug View Post

In line with the conversation about tungsten carbide files, does anybody get the logic behind this SKS dealybob? Is there something special about those little bits of file that I'm not seeing? The 100mm costs the same as nochaser's, but seems to have less file to it.

My curiosity stems from my lack of love for my files. They do the job, but they don't feel like quality tools, and a few are second hand items that turned out to be blech. As expensive as it is, the tungsten file sounds like something that'd feel good to use and would simplify my process, though as you've said, it'd spoil me for anything else.

Apropos of nothing, I'm using a hard Arkansas stone to polish and hone after my diamond stone sequence. Would ceramic or another natural stone be different, easier, better, or worse? Lovely polished edges don't make a noticeable difference at my level and soft conditions, but it's cool to make them pretty as long as I'm there. cool.gif

Edit: I also get confused about file types. Panzer file teeth all look roughly the same, but different people and websites use the term "bastard" for different tooth densities and kinds and shapes and even uses of files, and few of them seem to correspond to the dictionary definition, which is a second cut file.

Sorry, maybe I should start another thread, but I figured I'd just piggyback rather than drag quotes somewhere else.

2nd Cut is finer than a bastard, a bastard is nothing like a Panzer (Also known as a "Cross" file) . A Hard Arkansas is great for final polish! I use a true Hard Stoen or surgical Stone. But all work!

post #34 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

2nd Cut is finer than a bastard, a bastard is nothing like a Panzer (Also known as a "Cross" file).
Where does a coarse or first cut file fall? Is bastard just another term for coarse or first cut? Is it a particular shape or kind of tooth? Websites sometimes give tpi for files, but often just say bastard, panzer, coarse/medium/fine/extra fine, or first, second and third cut.

Maybe I should just become one with not knowing. tongue.gif
post #35 of 45
The cut of the file refers to how fine its teeth are. They are defined as (from roughest to smoothest): rough, middle, bastard, second cut, smooth, and dead smooth.
post #36 of 45
Panzer file - round teeth ~5 TPCM
Strawberry file - straight teeth

Bastard cut - 10~12 TCPM
post #37 of 45
Wow, talk about back from the dead. smile.gif

I also just use a non-chrome file to knock off any high spots on the base edge.

If I feel the need to sharpen the side edge, I clamp a 1.5" of Panzer file on the steel edge guide and back ip up with a diamond stone with another clamp.
I pull the combination down the edge, one time, may be two if needed. Than remove the panzer and run the diamond file up/down a few times.

I'll use some black ink on the metal edge so i can see what I'm taking off.

I'm beginning to figure out if my skis don't have great edge hold, its because I'm not rolling my ankles enough. Watch the race team kids, see what they do with there ankles. I watched my son, now 26y/o, on his first day back on skis in 7 years, ski on my Volkl AC30's from 4/5 years ago. It's amazing how the skis perform when you have great skills.
post #38 of 45
Hi Doc,
this is my 5th season using the #2 icecut file and i have no complaints. I tune 3 to 8 pairs of skis a week and i use this file at the beginning of each season to get each ski square and to touch up dings or other nasty stuff that has a heavy hand on edges (use moon type stuff to finish each edge) . I have several other chrome files that i use to set bevels. I believe i got my
Icecut from Alpine base and it was on sale. The 1st thing i noticed and learned to love was there was no tang !!!!!!!!!! What a fool i felt for never having one of these. I cannot overpower the file no matter how hard i try to flex the it. To answer some of the other questions, i would burn out at least 10 or more non chrome files each season. If there was a better file i would not need to buy it because i think this file will last me until i can't tune another ski.
If anyone is interested you might want to look at Marc's wax that he sells. I use his hybird floro warm wax for free skiing and racing here in the desert of Calif where most days are like training at a summer race camp.. I have overlays that make a ski faster but i can't find anything that works as well in the heat here that keeps me from getting hurt. Worth every Ducat that i spend to stay out of a cast.

Timski
SoCAl
post #39 of 45
post #40 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by nochaser View Post

I wonder why FK SKS TC files are about twice the price of SVST TC files.

http://www.fktools-us.com/Product-Details.asp?Part-Number=3210

https://www.svst.com/Categories.aspx?Category=0af374d8-663f-46cd-84bc-e4353c915f6e
What do the SVST files go for?
post #41 of 45
Retail is $90-100

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
post #42 of 45

Well here's the catalog from Vallorbe.

Bastard is 13 teeth/cm

2nd cut is 16 teeth/cm

Smooth is 20 teeth/cm

http://www.vallorbe.com/Download.php?f=documents/Catalogue_icecut_q.pdf

 

They say somewhere in there that chrome makes the file cut a little less. It's also to prevent rusting and sticking of material. I've seen chromed ones rust though, so storage is still important.

Anyone use chalk on the file? That's an old technique.


Edited by Tog - 1/14/16 at 12:18pm
post #43 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tog View Post
 

Well here's the catalog from Vallorbe.

Bastard is 13 teeth/cm

2nd cut is 16 teeth/cm

Smooth is 20 teeth/cm

http://www.vallorbe.com/Download.php?f=documents/Catalogue_icecut_q.pdf

 

They say somewhere in there that chrome makes the file cut a little less. It's also to prevent rusting and sticking of material. I've seen chromed ones rust though, so storage is still important.

Anyone use chalk on the file? That's an old technique.


Chalk is used when filing soft stuff like brass and bronze etc.  Not needed for ski edges.  It sure won't hurt though.

post #44 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post

I have found Holmenkol non-hardchrome files to be the best.

they come ine 13, 15 and 18 teeth per cm. The file I use for base bevel is the fine very short tooth 18 teeth per cm file. they are also priced very well. I use the short 100mm version except for the 18 tooth which only comes in 150mm length.

http://www.holmenkol.us/cartproducts...=Files&ref=295

Hard chrome files are not the best for tuning as explained below!

You have found the finest files available anywhere, at any price. 1 try and you will be convinced. Holmenkol files are made in Europe, they are NOT chromed (chroming dulls the file and harms the enviroment, plus it makes the file warped from the heat). All files are individually packaged in protective vinyl sleeves for storage & transport.

 

Almighty A-man, does 18 TPCM remove enough material to change a base bevel?? I have to chose between 15 or 18, and i will primarily use it once a year on the base edge for setting the angle.

post #45 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowsgomooh View Post

Almighty A-man, does 18 TPCM remove enough material to change a base bevel?? I have to chose between 15 or 18, and i will primarily use it once a year on the base edge for setting the angle.
yes, It don't take much to get 1 degree and 1/2 as much for a .5. Taking less off at a time is mo Betta.
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