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SVST guide questions - Page 2

post #31 of 53
I definately prefer a spring clamp and a specified guide, not a shim adjustable one. You really only need a 92 and a 93 degree edge guides. These two will cover 99% of all skis out there today. A good guide, like the SVST, will last you a lifetime.

You have to start with a file to get rock burrs out. Then 100/120 diamond stone to 400 stone to Arkansas stone. Just affix your file or stone in the guide so that you are using a non worn out section of the file or stone. If you have new stones or files, this is not an issue. With use you will see where the worn out sections are. Keep the files, stones and your bases clean so you ae not ginding debris into the bases.

Files cut in one direction only, stones you can run back and forth.
post #32 of 53
[quote=Flame;636392]
Quote:
I definately prefer a spring clamp and a specified guide, not a shim adjustable one.
We are not talking about an adjustable tool. Look at SVST's side edge beveler. You add stationary shims to the side edge beveler to increase the bevel angle. Whole different ballgame!

Quote:
You have to start with a file to get rock burrs out.
This is absolutly wrong! You use a coarse diamond stone to take out rock burrs which case harden the edge in that spot. Then you file and only if you are changing your side edge bevel or your edges are so chewed up they must be refiled, but still only after removing the burrs with a coarse (usually black) diamond stone
post #33 of 53
Atomicman, You are the main reason I think I am outa this forum for good. You are a know it all and cannot take anyone elses opinion.

I know the shim adjustable guide you are using. All I said was I prefer the non-shim adj. guides. Why have to restack all of them shims in there everytime you change a stone. I do not like them. You do, OK with me.

I use files to take out burrs. You can use stones all you want. You can wear out a $40 stone a lot faster than an $8 file on rock burrs. You just go ahead and stone away big guy. Files are a lot faster too.

I am sick of your "nobody knows it better than I" attitude. I'm gone. Yo always seem to be in every thread. Don't you have anything else to do?

An attitude like yours normally comes from an insufficient person. They have to make up for some other inadequacies by berating others.
post #34 of 53
Flame - it seems you're the one not open to learning something new. A-man has decades of experience and proven credentials. You're new here and already passing judgement on someone who has been a member of our community since almost its inception.

BTW - You're flat dead wrong about using a file to knock out burrs and rock-hardened damage - and if you're using an $8 file on your skis then no wonder you don't know any better.
post #35 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flame View Post
Atomicman, You are the main reason I think I am outa this forum for good. You are a know it all and cannot take anyone elses opinion.

I know the shim adjustable guide you are using. All I said was I prefer the non-shim adj. guides. Why have to restack all of them shims in there everytime you change a stone. I do not like them. You do, OK with me.

I use files to take out burrs. You can use stones all you want. You can wear out a $40 stone a lot faster than an $8 file on rock burrs. You just go ahead and stone away big guy. Files are a lot faster too.

I am sick of your "nobody knows it better than I" attitude. I'm gone. Yo always seem to be in every thread. Don't you have anything else to do?

An attitude like yours normally comes from an insufficient person. They have to make up for some other inadequacies by berating others.
Well I don't want to disappoint you.

You don't have a clue!! You don's stack anything! You use 1 shim, what do you mean stack shims everytime you change a stone. The shims come in .5, 1 2 3. it is a wondersful system that gives you much flexibility.

Obviously you open your big yapper and don't even know how the thing works!

And also you give advice on tuning that is dead wrong.

I am going to leave this forum because you are a know nothing with a big yapper
post #36 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky View Post
Why would you need a 3 degree side bevel if you are not racing or skiing on ice? Some skis come from the factory with a one and one.
I just went from a 2 degree side bevel to a 3 on my Volkl P60 GC's, and I agree with you. Though they are now even grippier on hard snow, I find it to be overkill for softer snow. My midfats will stay with a 2 degree side bevel.
post #37 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flame View Post
I definately prefer a spring clamp and a specified guide, not a shim adjustable one. ... A good guide, like the SVST, will last you a lifetime.
The SVST, though, is a "shim adjustable one."

The shims are aluminum, sturdy and fit into the tool quite tidily. If you want the ability to do two angles, you can save a few bucks by owning just one SVST guide and one shim - for example, you can do 1 and 3 degrees by owning a 1-degree guide and a 2-degree shim. And, of course, if you want more flexibility, you can do (say) 4 different angles with one tool and three shims.

The only real downside to the SVST shims is that the screw-on clamp doesn't work right with them* - not a big deal, as it seem most of us prefer the spring clamps anyway.

____
*Noodler said this more definitively than I did in my earlier post. I don't disagree with him, I just noted the problem less forcefully since I wasn't entirely sure of it.
post #38 of 53
Flame-

on the off chance that you are listening,

the steel used to make ski edges from work hardens when you hit rocks, pepples etc. This work hardening leaves the edge metal locally harder than the steel in your file. When you are filing along and get to one of these hardened burrs you dull the file and risk having the file chatter on the edge. This will ruin the file and potentially leave your edges a chattered mess.

do as you like, but don't preach the file only routiune to others-
post #39 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtimer View Post
Flame-

on the off chance that you are listening,

the steel used to make ski edges from work hardens when you hit rocks, pepples etc. This work hardening leaves the edge metal locally harder than the steel in your file. When you are filing along and get to one of these hardened burrs you dull the file and risk having the file chatter on the edge. This will ruin the file and potentially leave your edges a chattered mess.

do as you like, but don't preach the file only routiune to others-
post #40 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
You use a coarse diamond stone to take out rock burrs which case harden the edge in that spot. Then you file and only if you are changing your side edge bevel or your edges are so chewed up they must be refiled, but still only after removing the burrs with a coarse (usually black) diamond stone

That is the best file use advice I've ever seen.

Thank you.
post #41 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjjohnston View Post
The SVST, though, is a "shim adjustable one."

The shims are aluminum, sturdy and fit into the tool quite tidily. If you want the ability to do two angles, you can save a few bucks by owning just one SVST guide and one shim - for example, you can do 1 and 3 degrees by owning a 1-degree guide and a 2-degree shim. And, of course, if you want more flexibility, you can do (say) 4 different angles with one tool and three shims.

The only real downside to the SVST shims is that the screw-on clamp doesn't work right with them* - not a big deal, as it seem most of us prefer the spring clamps anyway.

____
*Noodler said this more definitively than I did in my earlier post. I don't disagree with him, I just noted the problem less forcefully since I wasn't entirely sure of it.

Well last night I was using my guide and clamp with the .5 shim. The problem with using the clamp and shim together is that together they do not allow the user to put enough clamp force on the abrasive tool. One way to fix this would be to simply shim (using anything that will fit) the space between the clamp and the file. This would allow for more clamping force and would not affect the accuracy of the cut; since the angle is decided by the guide and shim, not what is above the file.

SVST could address the clamp issues in two ways, include a shim with the clamp for use with stones, files and angle shims that are not as high as the opening, and they could employ a two screw clamp that would both hold better and more evenly distribute the clamping force.
post #42 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigE View Post
That is the best file use advice I've ever seen.

Thank you.
this will go down as a fine day in history! BigE and I actually agree on something!

Hallelujah!
post #43 of 53
LOL!

Amen!
post #44 of 53
Atomicman, can you explain your procedure for using a gummi stone and when do you use one. Thanks.
post #45 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky View Post
Atomicman, can you explain your procedure for using a gummi stone and when do you use one. Thanks.
I use a very hard gritty gummi stone to knock off the hanging burr created by side edge filing and polishing. I also use a TOKO finishing/Dressing Block Hard gummi to dull the edges past the contact points.

As a final step I run a hard gummi or the TOKO Block at a 45 degree angle with absolutley no pressure to remove any final micro burr on the actual edge from tip to tail down the entire edge. Make the final edge silky smooth.

http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/sho...roducts_id=472

Reliable Racing used to carry them. But I have not seen them on their site lately!

Here it is on the TOKO site

http://www.toko.ch/toko/katalog.asp?...d=4828&sid =2
post #46 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky View Post
Atomicman, can you explain your procedure for using a gummi stone and when do you use one. Thanks.
by the way, i was at Crystal today!
post #47 of 53
I take it that the screw clamp is fine with the dedicated SVST angled bevelers, no shims. I like this the best, or I am still thinking of the side of Beast or pocket Beast.

Any thoughts on these? I will not be doing a lot of tuning too often, but I do want a quality tool that will last, and do an accurate job.
post #48 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron01 View Post
I take it that the screw clamp is fine with the dedicated SVST angled bevelers, no shims. I like this the best, or I am still thinking of the side of Beast or pocket Beast.

Any thoughts on these? I will not be doing a lot of tuning too often, but I do want a quality tool that will last, and do an accurate job.
A spring clamp works better, is cheaper and quicker to change stones and files.
post #49 of 53
I agree with A-man completely - the screw clamp was a complete waste of money. A good spring clamp makes a lot more sense and beyond being quicker, cheaper, and easier to use, it also allows you to shift the position of the stone/file on the guide very easily while you're working with it.
post #50 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noodler View Post
I agree with A-man completely - the screw clamp was a complete waste of money. A good spring clamp makes a lot more sense and beyond being quicker, cheaper, and easier to use, it also allows you to shift the position of the stone/file on the guide very easily while you're working with it.

How's the leg comin'?
post #51 of 53
I think I'll definitely be livin' a crutch-free life by the end of this week. However, I can tell that it's going to take a very long time until I get back all of the muscle strength, stamina, and range of motion in my leg.

I still have my eye on the prize though - to be able to ski again next season.
post #52 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noodler View Post
I think I'll definitely be livin' a crutch-free life by the end of this week. However, I can tell that it's going to take a very long time until I get back all of the muscle strength, stamina, and range of motion in my leg.

I still have my eye on the prize though - to be able to ski again next season.
Off crutches is huge!!!!

Ya still got a road ahead but it sounds like it is going as well as can be expected!
post #53 of 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
I use a very hard gritty gummi stone to knock off the hanging burr created by side edge filing and polishing. I also use a TOKO finishing/Dressing Block Hard gummi to dull the edges past the contact points.

As a final step I run a hard gummi or the TOKO Block at a 45 degree angle with absolutley no pressure to remove any final micro burr on the actual edge from tip to tail down the entire edge. Make the final edge silky smooth.

http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/sho...roducts_id=472

Reliable Racing used to carry them. But I have not seen them on their site lately!

Here it is on the TOKO site

http://www.toko.ch/toko/katalog.asp?...d=4828&sid =2
Thank You for the info.
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