Originally Posted by Noodler
With that info jamesgig I'm totally with Atomicman to start slow at 1.0 degree and take it from there. The Supershapes have an extremely deep sidecut (in fact I think it's still the deepest sidecut available on any retail ski). This ski is going to be very sensitive to the base bevel change. Couple that with your relative lack of skiing experience and I would compare going straight to a 0.5 degree bevel to jumping off a plane without a parachute.
If you do choose to go beyond a 1.0 degree base bevel you should definitely do 0.7 degrees before attempting 0.5 degrees.
BTW - make sure that you go with a 3 degree side bevel when you get them reset to a true 1.0 degree base bevel. That's your best choice for edge hold in the East (I even prefer it in the West).
Noodler, I think you got confused.
He must start with a .5 not a 1 degree and then if unsatisfactory increase the bevel progressively to a .7 & then a 1 degree if the .5 & .7 prove to be unsatisfactory for him. If he starts with a 1 and finds it too slippery (although a true 1 degree is almost always fine except for high level slalom racing) he cannot decrease the amount of base bevel back to a .5 or .7 without a grind. .
Also, the chioce of base bevel although somewhat dictated (in racing anyway) by the steepness of the hill, is more dictated by the type of snow yhe will be skiing on.
For instance, softer packed powder will not be as demanding as say Sun Valley's manmade very dry snow, (which is extremely demanding even with a 1 degree)
Also snow with an very high water content can be very demanding with less base bevel.