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High back question

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

to the mass snowboard "pro-know" guru's out there I have a question. What is the benefit of adjusting the high-backs on your binding so that they are parallel with the boards heel edge? I'm just wondering myself (that's the way I currently have mine set up). Anyone else have any feedback? I'm all ears.

post #2 of 11
post #3 of 11
My highbacks don't quite adjust to parallel to the heel edge. Perhaps you meant perpendicular?

In this case there are three possible adjustments:
1) positioning the highback laterally so that the highback is lined up over the edge (I don't think many bindings let you do this, but some have adjustable heel cups that might make this possible and it could just work out if your board is the right width)
2) Using a zero zero stance angle
3) Using a zero forward lean

I've heard rumors that zero forward lean is preferred for riding rails because forward lean helps to emphasize turns, but the last time I rode a rail it was "out of town" (obscure joke for old people).

With respect to leverage, one would think you would get more leverage with the highback lined up PAST the edge of the board (i.e. hanging over), but then I'm not a Physicsman (obscure Epic member joke).

Most highbacks have some curve to them. If there is any fore/aft movement in the knee to calf zone, there should be some additional fore/aft torque generated through the highback to the edge of the board. If the bindings were mounted zero/zero, that torque would be evenly applied to toe and heel side turns. I'm guessing that once you deviate from zero/zero, that the longitudunal flex pressure point that the highbacks provide fore/aft pressure onto will vary to slightly more forward along the board edge for heel turns and slightly more back for toe turns because of where the legs "contact" the highback (unless you go pigeon toed). But this is just a guess.
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 

I agree with the direction you going, my binding angle for clairification are F 21 & B -18 22.5 stance width. This post came about as a long pst conversation w/ KC. His comment was that it really did'nt make a huge difference. Although not to quote him in exact verbatum...he actually at the time rode (couple of seasson's ago) his high backs in some what of a stock position. As I'm always questing to improve apon my switch riding...I was actually thinking to try and adjust the high backs to thier orginal stock position. Yeah..this will require a bit more experimentation on my part. More to come.

Happy New Year!

"The Jonah"...lol
post #5 of 11
This went offbase real fast. You want roughly equal heel-toe boot overhang so that you have equal toeside and heelside leverage. You position the bindings laterally on the board and/or adjust the length of the binding to get this (depending on boots and your foot what feel "right" in this regard may actually look off-center though, check both look and feel).

This determines the amount of overhang. If your board is the right size you should definitely have some heelcup overhang.

Then, set your angles.

THEN adjust your highback so it's parallel to the board edge. So that you still maximize your heelside leverage. That's why this adjustment has been available for so long.

If you ride duck with moderate angles KC is right that it doesn't make a huge difference. If you ride with a lot of forward lean you also can't slide the highback as much and still get the highback and calf to agree. But on average it is quite noticeable, and at 21/-18 you'll probably notice a difference.:

Regarding rails, yes either no or just a little forward lean is the way to go, but forward lean is a different topic.
post #6 of 11
Keeping it parallel to the edge allows for more fore and aft movement when riding but the same if not better support when putting the board on edge.
post #7 of 11
The only problem rests that yes you can make it parallel, but you cant angulate it. Thereby with high angles and high forward lean it makes a different direction of boot forward lean and highback forward lean.

I only know of a head prototype binding that was too expensive to go into production to allow to cant the highback as well. Some Boardecross bindings came with canted highback meaning that at 15-20 degrees it would match perfectly, therefore they sucked when riding 0°.

Parallel is therefore not allways the best option
post #8 of 11
Originally Posted by extremecarver View Post
The only problem rests that yes you can make it parallel, but you cant angulate it. Thereby with high angles and high forward lean it makes a different direction of boot forward lean and highback forward lean.
Great thread. Really good point, EC. I guess I'd only add that pressure one either heel or toeside comes from the entire binding -- base plates, toe pads, straps & highbacks. Stance angles are connected to both overhang, which is a purely mechanical thing, and ease of movement/balance in the stance itself, which is totally individual. You kind of have to fiddle with it, maybe over and over again, until you get it right.

Last year, I ran my softie set-up at 37/12. My board ran great. But, I morphed to the end of the season to 20/-20 duck. This felt symmetrical, was very comfortable at slower speeds, but wasn't as effective for high speed carving. This year I'm set at 27/7. At least for me, the key is getting the rear leg into the proper position so that it loads evenly with the front leg, going straight, heelside and toeside. I keep my highbacks in their original position for all stance set-ups.

Since I have minimal overhang, I am considering putting a heel lift on the rear base plate to mimic some hardboot set-ups. Has anyone done this?
post #9 of 11
Well my Proflex BX binders came with lifters and Cants (team edition). They are a fair bit higher than most bindings too and I use the canters, not the additional lifts. The only prob is that the binding cuts off any bloodstream in your foot when you fasten the straps.
post #10 of 11
Well, I'm going out tomorrow morning. I'll give it a try and let everyone know.
post #11 of 11
I rotated my highbacks for the first time this year. I can't say for sure that it helped. But it didn't hurt any. It makes sense from a mechanics standpoint that you want the high back as parallel to the edge as you can get it.
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