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So I did end up getting the RX8s. Now I have a small problem.

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
A couple of months ago I was sure on gettin the SX10 or 5 star. Then after the responses about other skis to consider, I got the Fischer Rx8. They were $600 w/ fx12 bindings 05/06.(In case anyone wanted to know). Awesome skis but only got to try em once.

I had a pair of old boots and decided to get new ones. I went with the tecninca magnesium boots in the size that felt dees in the store. I got them a week later, and while I as picking them up I got my new skis adjusted to them.

Then it snowed, so I tookem for a spin. The boots were way to big. I was amazed. So I went back to the store and tried out a smaller size. Perfect! I have no idea what happened the last time?? I got them replaced. Now I have the wrong size binding length. I know how they work because I mounted them the first time, but went to the ski shop to have the forward pressure checked. It was 20 bucks for nothing cuz all he did was look at them, touch the DIN and say wow they were set right.

I searched pretty much every thread relating to the "Fx12' and 'RX8s' and 'railflex 2 bindings". It took like an hour going the archive. I looked at the Tyrolia manual. But I still cant find how to have a near perfect forward pressure. Why couldnt they just use a screw like my old marker bindings?(so much simpler)

How should the tabs look like when the boot is in? I played with them for a while and all it does is make the boot harder or easier to put in. Where I set the tabs when the boot is off, is where they stay when it is in. They only move while im putting the boot in. So I have no Idea where they should idealy be. Should the end of the smaller top tab be in the middle or end of the tab underneath it? IDK

Can anyone please tell me how to correctly set the forward pressure Railflex 2 FX12 Bindings? Thanks

(sorry for the long rant, I was just telling you what happened.)
post #2 of 11
How much of a difference in the boot sole length? You may need to actually re-position the bindings for the (presumably) shorter boots. Certainly if the difference is more than 5mm. On the RailFlex bindings, the final forward pressure adjustment is often not needed. It's more important to get the sole length set right before resorting to forward pressure adjustments.
post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Yea it was more than 5 mm. It was like 12 i think. Yea I have the correct size underneath the binding. my boot is a 314mm and it is set to 315 on both ends. where do u think the tab should be? I really have no idea how ot set it up because im used to the standard screw one where all you look for is if it flush with the binding. By the way, thanks for you quick response.
post #4 of 11
Clamp the boots into the bindings and look at the lines on the tab (marked sort of like a ruler). With the boot clamped in the binding, the edge of the binding should fall in the middle of the ruler section. If it isn't, then take the boot out and lift the tab that the ruler lines are on, and slide that tab one slot forward or backward. Put the boot back in and check the ruler alignment again. Edge of binding anywhere in the ruled section is OK, the closer you can get it to the middle of the ruled section, the better.

I don't agree with skier219. Forward pressure is the more important adjustment; but IF your sole length is correct then there is a good chance that the forward pressure will be within the scale. However, I would NEVER consider just setting the sole length and ASSUMING that the forward pressure would be OK.
post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks Gandalf. I have one question. What do you mean by falling in the ruler? There are two tabs on it. The top one with lines by the millimeter and a bottom one with 3 larger lines that are spaced farther apart. So should the middle of the bottom tab lines be within the small lines of the top tab? Thats what it looks like.
post #6 of 11
Thread Starter 
So is that how it works guys?
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
Bump
post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by stan54 View Post
Thanks Gandalf. I have one question. What do you mean by falling in the ruler? There are two tabs on it. The top one with lines by the millimeter and a bottom one with 3 larger lines that are spaced farther apart. So should the middle of the bottom tab lines be within the small lines of the top tab? Thats what it looks like.
I'm answering based on a pair of Tyrolia Railflexs as well as a pair of FreeFlex's (two pair of Head skis). Your bindings should be the same, but it's possible there may be a difference (but I don't think so).

1. Let's make sure we are both talking about the same thing. At the back of the heel piece there is a little metal tab about 1/2" wide with several lines etched into the metal. We are not talking about the markings on the rail that the bindings attach too. It sounds like you are describing the rail itself, with boot sole length markings on one side amd the +15, 0, -15 markings on the other side of the rail. I am not referencing the rail

2. You described attaching the bindings to the rail at 315 (which is correct for a sole length of 314).

3. Slide the rail onto the ski and screw it down (at the +15 or 0 or -15, doesn't matter).

4. Look at the back of the heel binding and find a metal tab with several lines etched into it, noting where the lines on the tab are relative to the straight edge of the binding housing.

5. Put your boot in the binding, clamp the binding down, and look at the lines on the tab relative to the binding housing. The corner/edge of the binding should now fall somewhere within the lines on the tab. If the two don't line up that way with the boot clamped in, then release the boot - pry up the tab/lever with a screwdriver - slide the binding forward or backward a notch - release the tab into the notch - clamp the boot in and check the lines again.
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
I was talking about the etches on the tab when I said markings. Sorry for any confusion. It actually makes sense now. I didnt realize that the tabs were relative to the housing around them. I was just focused on the small tab and the etched metal underneath it. Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it. See you on the slopes.
post #10 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by gandalf View Post
I don't agree with skier219. Forward pressure is the more important adjustment; but IF your sole length is correct then there is a good chance that the forward pressure will be within the scale. However, I would NEVER consider just setting the sole length and ASSUMING that the forward pressure would be OK.
That's what I meant. Generally if you are within 1-2mm of a setting on the binding spacer bridge, the forward pressure will be within spec. I was emphasizing that the correct spacing needed to be set *before* moving the rear adjustment (which only positions the heel piece). I didn't want stan54 to be using that adjustment to move the heel piece in order to compensate for the spacing of the new boots (he didn't indicate that he had already adjusted the spacing). The "fwd-pressure" adjustment is only to be used as a final tweak for mere mm's of difference.
post #11 of 11
Agree!!

I had a shop once forget (long ago) to set the forward pressure, thought I was going to rip my knee off, so it's sort of a sore point. That's when I learned to validate it myself.
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