Originally Posted by Flame
I agree that base bevels are harder to maintain and an inexperienced tuner can screw up a base bevel easier than a side bevel. But, a guy has to learn how to do it.
I do not agree that you can get away with only tuning the sides bevels. What the hell do you do if you hit a rock. You are going to have to pull out a file, stones will not fix a good rock ding, and you will have to file the edge and the base to get rid of the rock ding. Sure you do not have to file the entire length of the edge but you will have to blend the new filed location into the length of the edge.
What you do is nothing to your base edge!!!!!!
You should not touch your base edge after the initial bevel set and polish! Absolutly not with a file. There is no way in hell you can help but making a bad situation worse by trying to get a meaningless rock ding out of your base edge. All you will do is create more bevel in that area, create uneven base bevel and make it worse then if you just left the ding there Contrary to you comment, every professional tuning article i have read, says to only work on your side edges once your initial base bevel is set and polished.
In fact I do not even use diamond stones on my base edge ever after filing. I use the finest file (A 18 tooth per Inch, Holmenkol) and then simply polish with a TOKO finishing block. I then never touch my base edge again and only sharpen or polish the side edges.
After having been quite anal in the past about my base edge and trying to do what you have suggested here, i have discovered that less is more with base edge work and that the rock ding makes no difference if your side edge is sharp & polished.
It makes no sense to end up with wavy base bevel from trying to fix the base edge rock dings with a file or a diamond stone.
Once the base edges get to the point where they are effecting the ski performance, it is time for a grind and start the process over again.
if you would like, I would be gald to post some articles (as I have in the past) confirming this!