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Do my brand new skis need a tune before I take 'em out?

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
That's pretty much, you know, the whole post. Not much else to post in the message box here.
post #2 of 19
nope no tune needed...no wax needed
post #3 of 19
Disagree with the above poster......definitely tune/wax. Sometimes the shop you purchased at will throw this initial tune in if you purchase from them, but for a just-out-of-the-shrink-wrap ski, definitely get a tune, or at the very least iron in some wax yourself.
post #4 of 19
Interesting.

I actually found that I had to have my Karmas and Mantras "de-tuned" (i.e. the tips and tails dulled a bit) rather than having a full blown tune.

post #5 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by dookey67 View Post
Interesting.

I actually found that I had to have my Karmas and Mantras "de-tuned" (i.e. the tips and tails dulled a bit) rather than having a full blown tune.


Well, yes, I usually take it for granted that detuning a few cm's from the tip & tail so they don't hang up is included in a standard tune. Good ski techs will know to do that intuitively.

The edges wouldn't be 'de-tuned' like that on a brand new ski..hence, another reason to get a brand new ski tuned.
post #6 of 19
I agree with Tyrone. Always tune 'em when new. If the shop won't throw in a tune with a new pair of skis, it's worth it to get it done. (Most shops would probably throw in a tune with new skis. Just ask.)

Even if they come right out of the plastic, the skis will still perform better with at least some wax put into 'em. If you do it right, you can't over-wax skis.

With new skis (or "new" to me), from wherever I get 'em, I go the whole nine yards: make sure the base is flat & true, deal with it if not; tune & detune the edges for what I want; hot scrape (twice); iron in base prep, let cool, scrape, repeat; hot box some CH10; then hot box some harder wax; then iron/cool/scrape the wax du jour; apply structure if necessary (more and more skis are coming with a pretty good grind in them already).

Spray-on or wipe-on stuff is good for glide, but it's no replacement for a proper tuning, even for new skis.

I'm equally obsessive about XC skiing as I am about alpine. XC skiing teaches you to take waxing/tuning seriously. You'll notice the difference in how the skis perform, and how the bases & edges look at the end of the season.

Of course, the only thing I like doing more than tuning skis is skiing them. My wife says I'm a little obsessive.

But, at least tune 'em when they're new.
post #7 of 19
I half disagree. If the skis are flat, just wax & ski. The factory tune is likely as good as you get except from a very skilled ski tech. If they aren't flat, then they need to be flattened.

Dulling the tips & tails depends on your ski style. If you carve, you want the tips & tails sharp. If you prefer to skid your turns, you need them dulled. I'd try them the way they are, but bring along a small stone in your pocket. If they feel grabby, dull the tips 1" at a time and the tails 1/2".


Ken
post #8 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoftSnowGuy View Post
I half disagree. If the skis are flat, just wax & ski. The factory tune is likely as good as you get except from a very skilled ski tech. If they aren't flat, then they need to be flattened.
Agree 100%. Just make sure they're flat. If not, take care of it.

Quote:
Dulling the tips & tails depends on your ski style. If you carve, you want the tips & tails sharp. If you prefer to skid your turns, you need them dulled. I'd try them the way they are, but bring along a small stone in your pocket. If they feel grabby, dull the tips 1" at a time and the tails 1/2".

Ken
Carrying a gummi (or whatever) is good advice. But people should be mindful, that you can detune on the slopes, but not sharpen.
post #9 of 19
It depends. I'll typically ski one day on a pair before doing anything, just to see what's up.

Then start with a good hotwax, scrape and brush. Most ski bases are fairly dry from the factory, and you'll see some dry p-tex after the first day if you didn't wax them.....rub it off with scotchbrite.

Ski the stock edge tune, and don't detune it. You may like it or, not, and then you can go from there. Most skis come overbeveled on the base, set to around 2-3 degrees.....makes them super easy to turn, and they may have enough edging power when sharp, but a slightly more agressive base bevel ususally works better. Around 1 degree for carving skis or 1.5 for freeskiing skis. Side edge at 2 or 3 degrees. Do not de-tune the tips and tails.
post #10 of 19
It depends on the ski. Some (like my antique SGs) come with a razor-sharp properly beveled factory tune that will never be matched. I just peeled the sticky foil off the base and went skiing. Some come without even base and edge bevels on them so you can set your own. Some just need a few coats of wax. How are your skis? Sharp and true? Waxy or Dry?

You probably should wax for conditions.
post #11 of 19
Also depends on the brand. For instance, Volkl's and Stockli's are wonderfully finished at the factory; I wouldn't let a shop near their edges. Just hot wax and out. OTOH, I've found Rossi's to require a little attention, and some of the smaller indies have reps for needing major surgery.
post #12 of 19
That all pretty much falls in line with what I did last season.

I rode both my Karmas and Mantras fresh out the shrink wrap, but after a day on each took them in for a hotwax and a tip/tail de-tuning (they were way to grabby for my taste).

Ditto for my No Ka Ois...just went with the factory tune (didn't have the tips or tails de-tuned on these).

All three will be getting a full monty before hitting the slopes (or at the latest after one or two days out) this season, though.

So I'm with the ski the factory tune for a day or two modus operandi.

post #13 of 19
Use a cylindical true bar and check the bottoms to see if they are flat, if so then dull tips and tails to personal preference. If not then flat file them. If the skis have been sitting on rack for a few months the wax may be dried out and need a new coat. If possible, you should always negotiate a free tune when buying new skis.
post #14 of 19
Interesting debate over whether or not to detune the tips and tails. I'd say generally not with modern relatively short carvers. I've never found any short skis to be grabby, but then I was using 200+ cm slalom skis for many years.
post #15 of 19
I would always wax a new ski. The manufacturers use a low end wax to keep the bases moist during storage and shipping. That wax usually doesn't last more than a run or two. As for detuning tips and tails it is totally a matter of personal taste. As for the structure it depends upon what type of structure the manufacturer put on the ski and the conditions you are skiing in. Generally, I would rarely grind a brand new base but I alwasy recommend a wax and edge.
post #16 of 19
Judging from the quality of the tunes that come out of most ski shops today, I'll take my chances with the factory tune anytime. All the shops that I've been to over the years still insist on detuning the daylights out of the tips and tails. And if you ask them not to, they resent it, it's kind of like saying to them that you know more about their job than they do. In fact, I will postpone having my skis tuned as long as possible, and even then I'll only have the shop stone grind the bases and I'll do the rest. The only shop that I'll trust to tune my skis is Precision Ski in Frisco. I brought my skis to them out of necessity after having sustained some rock damage, and the skis came back with a better tune than when they were new. Big props to them. I will, however, always wax a new pair of skis before bringing them out for the first time.
post #17 of 19
Thread Starter 
Thanks, all. Good discussion as always. I'll wax 'em good and leave the edges as is.
post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by meggs View Post
Thanks, all. Good discussion as always. I'll wax 'em good and leave the edges as is.
Thats what I do too.
post #19 of 19

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