Base repair, Edge tuning, base structuring & waxing list
A-Serious-racers, pros (makes a living on skis or snowboards), recreational, where only the highest standards of tuning, waxing, repairs, tasks tools and supplies are considered and practiced.
B-Performance-recreational & pros, depending on priorities and other factors can range from the highest standards to allow for some 'rationalized' or acceptable 'slop', but still want very good performance and maintain gear.
C-Leisure-wants to protect their investment and do the basics only.
1-Inspect, prioritize and set goal
a-run a coarse pocket stone down edges if needed to knock down burrs and work (aka case hardened edges); follow with a finger or fiber pad
b-check for gouges and deep scratches against the length of the ski
c-clean bases and sides of dirt, grime and old wax if necessary
2-Perform or have a shop perform necessary and desired tasks; secure ski or snowboard in vise,
-1-clean off wax and especially nearby flouros around at least the areas requiring repairs. Also, may clean entire ski.
-2-rough up gouge or scratch with sand paper and remove debris
-3-warm up area to be repaired with heat gun or iron on teflon sheet
-4-drip in thin layers of carbon free ptex from candle or welding wire or stick with soldering iron or welding gun. If down to core or edge metal use metal grip before ptex or welding wire/stick.
-5-let cool and harden. Remove excess with panzer/body file file or small section, bastard file or surform tool or section. Finish with sharp metal scraper and polish with sandpaper.
-6-repeat steps 4 & 6 as necessary or desired.
-7-check base flattness and adjust with panzer/body file and sandpaper wrapped around metal scraper or sandingblock.
-8-wipe down base with fiber pad and dry, rag or lint free paper towel or fiberlene.
b-base and side edge tuning
-1-with bases up, verify case hardened locations, rough spots, burrs, nicks, sharpness. Run stone over edge as necessary for case hardened areas.
-2-Verify/rotate file in guide to assure teeth are facing travel direction. working from tip to tail count strokes while cutting one edge with bastard or 2nd cut file in base edge guide set to desired or spec'd bevel angle, and until desired results are achieved. Rotate file and repeat on other base edge.
-3-Repeat step 2 with coarse stone or diamond, then medium and fine stones or diamonds. (You can structure base now to avoid multiple vise resets.)
-4-secure board on side edge with base away. Repeat steps 2 & 3 three with side edge beveler. If you are noticing sidewall material, cut sidewall with panzer file in guide set at 6 degrees, Ergorazor or other cutter, then continue with sharpening steps.
-5-remove ski or snowboard from vise and repeat process with other ski.
-6-run finger or fiber pad along edge to check for burrs. Hand polish with extras fine stone to remove minor imperfections and until all 4 edges feel the same.
-7-detune tips and tails if desired or wait until on the slopes.
-1-determine expected snow conditions regarding temperature and moisture content.
-2-at the minimum, run 100-200 grit sandpaper down the length of the skis. To creating mini grooves in base. Hard brass or steel brushes or rilling tools are preferred structuring tools. Adjust pressure as necessary for conditions, with more aggressive structuring for wetter conditions.
-3- do not be afraid to sand or wire brush bases. You have to try very hard to damage the bases and you will not match the pressures applied while skiing on abrasive snows.
d-clean, wax, scrape & brush (see either Quick or Standard Application Procedures
for Spray, Liquid or Powder wax applications and other info and approaches.)
-1-wipe off debris from any previous tasks, handling or after time.
-2-for solids, with boards at room temperature, drip desired amount of base prep wax (if initial waxing after base grind, base repairs, total wax removal or change in temperature) or wax for the day(s) using iron set at proper temperature. While continually moving iron, spread out and work wax into the ski base. To minimize material use, with practice, drip as little wax as possible to keep the iron moving and enough to just cover bases. Even less can be used if a teflon sheet is used between base and iron. Another trick to remove excess wax and reduce scraping, mess & time is to place a lint free towel, like fiberlene, between iron and base.
-3-let softer waxes harden for at least an hour, scrape with sharp plexi scraper. The hard race base is like applying epoxy it's so hard and needs to be scraped while still warm and semi-soft, or you'll need a metal scraper and steel brush to free the structure.
-4-brush with appropriate brush relative to wax hardness to free structure, wipe wax dust and polish with softer brush until even sheen.
-5-if traveling, leave wax on until arrival at destination or place protective sheeting over wax, ignore it or use alpine straps with neoprene between the two bases for separation.
3-Go make turns, adjust tune as necessary or desired and have fun
4-End of day touch up
-1-wipe down skis to remove moisture
-2-run finger or pocket stone over edges and lightly deburr and touch up.
-3-check base and wax condition
-4-place in straps or rack and protect bases for transport or storage.
Adjust above process to fit your needs, time, preferences and priorities. Try new things and realize you have to try hard to hurt your skis and do it wrong enough to create real problems. It's continually a learning process, there are no absolutes, plenty of variables and you can become more connected to your boards the more time you put into them and truly increase your enjoyment when out touring or turning.....and the maintenance process becomes more therapeutic and enjoyable. You also may become less inclined to spend unnecessary cash on new boards because you get your existing ones so dialed in and running well.
This isn't open heart surgery, it's working on boards to increase their performance, protect your investment and increase your enjoyment.
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