Originally Posted by Martin
Base edge you could probably free hand. I would not try to do the side edges free hand as you are more likely to round the edge. On the base edge you have the base to act as a guide on the side there is nothing to guide the stone.
It is my experience that if you keep the edges in shape by regular sharpening with stones and occasionally files, there will be almost no need to ever touch up on the hill.
YOu don't want to use a diamnd stone to deburr. Diamond stones are for sharpening & polishing. You want an Arkansas or Transulucent surgical stone to deburr. Look here http://www.race-werks.com/store.php?startrow=10
Also deburring is not done on the edge itself. Not where the base & side edge meet. The only time you need to deburr on the hill is if your skis are grabby or hooky.
The burr or "curl" of metal is produced when sharpeneing the side edge. it is a Hanging burr that protrudes down the side edge minutely past the base edge so that when your ski is on the snow it stikcs down into the snow. This is what produces the very grabby, unpredictable performance many times of freshly tuned skis. Whoever tuned them forgot the final step or is in too big a hurry to do it (read ome shops).
To deburr your skis on the hill put your ski on it side base facing away from you. Place the stone flat against the base sticking slightly above the side edge, using your themb as a guide on the top edge or sidewall of the ski with medium pressure polish as though your are polishing the base edge from tip to tail. Make sure the stone is in contact with the base edge th4e entire length of the ski. You can hear the slight grinding as you knock the hanging burr off. Once you have the burr knocked down you could also use a gummi stone the same way as a second step and then use the gummi with very light pressure
at a 45 degree angle on the actual edge,(the
point where your base edge and side edge meet). KEYWORD HERE IS LIGHTLY, ALMOST NO PRESSURE JUST SLIDE IT VERY LIGHTLY ALONG THE EDGE.Get prepared for a silky smooth ride. You need do nothing to the side edge so you do not need a file guide and since you are using a polishing stone as opposed to a cutting stone or file as described above you will not screw up your base edge angle.
also once you initially set yopur base edge in your initial tune, LEAVE THE BASE EDGE ALONE. To sharpen your skis again you only need to use a file guide and a series of progressive diamond stones from more coarse to less coarse. If you have some bad dings , you can comletly do your side edges over from scratch starting with a file. and following your normal side edge progression. You can change you side edge bevel angle at will and go either way, form a more acute angle to less acutre of from a less acute angle to mmore acute. You can not do this with the base edge. You can only add bevel. You cannot remove bevel without have you base edge reground. This is one reason you don't want to touch your base edge after the inital tune. Any sharpening (with a diamond file or a file will only INCREASE you edge angle and over bevel you skis and drastically increase the inclination you must use to get the ski up on edge.
Read this excellent article. http://www.holmenkol.us/myadmin/data...our%20Skis.pdf
the procedure I use on our skis is explained in the Base and side edge paragraphs.
I use this TOKO dressing block (finishing block) gummi Stone http://www.telemark-pyrenees.com/sho...roducts_id=472
Reliable racing used to have hem but i didn't see them on their site