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Base Repair-welding vs dripping Napalm - Page 2

post #31 of 45
Since the Pro Fix is out of stock and I have been unable to locate a Black and Decker, how would a Weller that is 750 degrees do? I am able to find the Weller easily and cheaply. Anybody else have any experience with other irons for melting the welding stick?
post #32 of 45
I picked up a Craftsman heavy duty soldering iron (954042) for like $10 the other day. It says max. tip temp of 950 degrees. It worked out pretty good for me, although I wish they had more tip options. I'll have to look around for additional tips.
post #33 of 45
Thread Starter 
Ooops. I had received a resupply of Pro Fixes and Metal Grip, but didn't get it indicated on the site...sorry for anyone needing anything.

About any soldering iron and common sense can melt plastic, but too hot and you can run into problems. I think that a lot of tips are interchangeable with common irons, like Wellers. I used all those below with success. I definitely like the Pro Fix tip the best, but the 'flat iron' tip works well and I think is common to craft/wood burning kits.

post #34 of 45
What consitency does the pro-fix melt the p-tex too? I wasn't able to get liquid, but more like a peanut butter texture with the 950 degree iron.
post #35 of 45
Thanks for letting me know Alpinord. I just placed an order with you for the Pro Fix and some Metal grip. I look forward to the new goodies!
post #36 of 45
Thread Starter 
Thanks aaron01.

krp8128, the Pro Fix melts the welding rod, stick or ribbon to a thick liquid like consistency. Are you using ptex candles or welding rod?
post #37 of 45
I'm using a piece of welding rod from the local shop, "thick liquid like consistency" sounds a lot like my peanut butter consistency.

When will you have welding rod in stock? The stuff they sold me was $2 for about a foot, and it is approximatly .25inch square, I'd like to try something thiner...
post #38 of 45
Thread Starter 
krp8128, The black 3mm welding rod has been backordered for a while along with ribbon and 120 panzers. I'm waiting on info as to when I'll get them. In the mean time, the welding sticks are available. I have some 3mm rod from my personal supplies if you want a meter or so to try out. Let me know.
post #39 of 45
What's the diameter on the welding sticks?

The stuff they sold me at the shop (after the blank stare wehn I asked if the sold P-tex supplies) is obviously of a coil, about .25" square, and ribbed. I assume that it is meant to fit through a P-tex gun.

I felt like the entire time I was fighting to melt this larger size stick into an 1/8" grove in my base.
post #40 of 45
Thread Starter 
The welding sticks are 11mm/.43in. One option with your stuff is to try slicing off slivers to melt. A different tip might be worth pursing for melting and smearing the wider material.

Again a caution and disclaimer:
Our Pro Fix Base Repair Kit includes a well made, low temp iron designed for welding materials onto sintered and other ski and snowboard bases. Another reason for lower temperatures, beside avoidance of base damage, is to stay below vaporization temperatures of toxic fluoro waxes. Regardless of this design intent, our recommendation is to not do any base work in the presence of fluoros, period. So make sure your bases and work area are devoid of these and other harmful materials and use adequate ventilation for this and all ski and snowboard maintenance tasks, including waxing. Masks are not considered good ventilation and should be considered a placebo and ineffective. We are providing these techniques and recommendations as an assistance and accept no responsibility for this or other maintenance and repair tasks and risks taken on by those willing and able to carefully keep their gear in top shape and prolong useful life.
post #41 of 45
I tried slicing some down, but even with a brand new blade I felt like I would slice my fingers down faster then the stick, that stuff is hard!

I've been looking for a good tool (aside from the panzer) to trim down the base repairs. I picked up the yellow Surform tool the other night. I have quite a bit of experiance with woodworking aswell, and looking at some of the other tools got me thinking.
Have you tried to use either a sharp chisel or a small hand plane to shave down repairs? I would love to try both, but all my woodworking tools are back home. I'm thinking a small handplane, preferably with a wooden base, would work great. Home depot had a nice small "model makers" version, but when I pulled it out of the package the blade seemed to be ground crooked. I would rather wait untill I go home and get my hands on the good tools.

P.S.-PM sent
post #42 of 45
Thread Starter 
A lot of sharp woodworking tools can do the job if you are careful. One advantage of the micro planes of the surform or file teeth is you can cut minute amounts if you want. Some people just use a sharp metal scraper. I think it gets down to skill, confidence and paying attention.
post #43 of 45
I think I might pick up a good chisel and try that, I often use one to cut down half cured epoxy, which has about the same texture of P-text, without marring the wood surface.
post #44 of 45
I have been heating my ptex candle with my butane torch and then rolling the 'putty' into the gouge with the candle. I pre-heat the base with the waxing iron (cleaned on fibrelene) and then once I have the p-tex in the crack I iron it in with a waxing sheet between the iron and the p-tex. It seems to be working well. I then shave the repair with a craft razor (I am pretty good at free hand with anything sharp) and then get into it with the rilling bar and steel brush. Finally I let it cool and set at least overnight before brushing it the bases again and waxing as per normal.
post #45 of 45
What I have used for core shots is epoxy for about 1/2 to 3/4 of the fill and then base welded to the surface. Seems to hold very well.
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