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How to adjust binding on Ty FF

post #1 of 29
Thread Starter 
I need to adjust my bindings from 315 to 304. How do I take the binding apart? These are Free Flex not Rail flex (they are easy!). Also, the sole length is 304, the binding break points are 300 then 305, do you set them to 300?

Thanks
post #2 of 29
Have you tried just adjusting the binding without re-mounting? All my FF bindings have at least 10mm front or back adjustment. The forward pressure mark is on the side of the heel piece.

If you remount, I would use the 305 mark on the jig since it is closer to your actual sole length. FF are a little tricky because of the connecting sping between the toe and heel. Best bet if you haven't done it is to have a shop remount.

Good luck.
post #3 of 29
Thread Starter 
No I don't think yo have to remount, I was looking for the way to adjust them as you decribed above. How do you move the toe and heel?
post #4 of 29
You cannot move toe and heel on FF bindings. You can only move the heel, just like a traditional binding. The "FF" aspect refers to the floating heel and even then it only floats if you have the right plate (CP13) under it. I assume you have that CP13 plate.

If you are happy with the position of your toes on the ski, then the heel can be moved forward (although 11mm is a lot) and you will find yourself around 1/2 cm ahead of the current center position. If this is not acceptable you have to remount toe, but you may still get away with only sliding the heel.
post #5 of 29
Look for a little release tab in the back of the heel piece that you can raise up and then slide the heel forward or back. Release the tab and it will snap back into one of the notches to lock the heel.

Make sure you check the forward pressure indicator (the ruler scale on the side) when the boot is clicked in.
post #6 of 29
You could use the link in this post....

http://forums.epicski.com/showpost.p...&postcount=132
post #7 of 29
Thread Starter 
Thanks, just enough room! 315 to 304
post #8 of 29
Its been a while since I looked at the CP 13 plate. I would assume you would need to remount the toe & heel to keep the boot at the same relevant position over the ski. If you use the heel adjustment only while downsizing from 315 to 304 you are effectively moving the boot forward 5.5mm. Not much, but just be aware.

Cheers,


Michael
post #9 of 29
On the other hand many Head ski seem to be "happiest" when skied slightly forward [ie: the railflex system- many on this forum seem to like to be in the forward position]. Just a thought.
post #10 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by barrettscv View Post
Its been a while since I looked at the CP 13 plate. I would assume you would need to remount the toe & heel to keep the boot at the same relevant position over the ski. If you use the heel adjustment only while downsizing from 315 to 304 you are effectively moving the boot forward 5.5mm. Not much, but just be aware.

Cheers,


Michael
This is basically true, but the pre-drilled holes for the toe binding are much larger ranges than for the heel. I'm pretty sure that both 304 and 315 are the same front position and for the heel. Basically, for the FreeFlex the toe only has about 4 positions for gross location and then heel has 6 or so to actually match the boot length. (Not nearly as flexible, IMO, as the Railflex).

While this doesn't move the boot forward, it does move the mid point of the boot (or the center of balance forward) forward by that 5.5 mm, but that's less than 1/4 of an inch. Hopefully not noticeable, but the only option would be to remove Carve Plate and remount it and that's probably not worth the return on effort.
post #11 of 29
Its easy on the freeflex. It got 24mm of range for adjustment. Put it in to the next mark by lifting it with a big screwdriver. Then put the boot back in. Exactly have of the metal thing you have just lifted now has to dissapper. (See the range printed on it- perfect is if it matches at the middle mark, a bit shorter is not a great problem, having 3/4 off the marked line seeable is prone to prerelease).
post #12 of 29
Thread Starter 
Extreme, I am interested in what you wrote, but could you correct it a bit to make sense?
post #13 of 29
Well basically just search for the Metal thingy at the heel peace below the point whre you can adjust the DIN. If you found and look at that metal thing I hope my text will make sense. Its very difficult explaining it without a picture. For a better description, I'm sure Tyrolia offers one on their website. Adjusting lenght inside the 24mm range is as easy as changing the DIN setting. Takes 10 seconds.
post #14 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB View Post
The "FF" aspect refers to the floating heel and even then it only floats if you have the right plate (CP13) under it. I assume you have that CP13 plate.
Why does the heel only float with the CP13 plate?
post #15 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
Why does the heel only float with the CP13 plate?
The FF binding has a fixed toe and a floating heel. The CP plate has a front and a rear section. Each plate section has two fixed and two floating fasteners. The floating fasteners are set in a groove, allowing the plate to articulate as the ski flexes. Its a nice combination that works well as a system.

Cheers,

Michael
post #16 of 29
are you saying the heel does not float on my 07 i.sl RD with the completely separate two piece Vist plate and the FF+ 17?
post #17 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
are you saying the heel does not float on my 07 i.sl RD with the completely separate two piece Vist plate and the FF+ 17?
I'm not familiar with the Vist plate, so I can't say. I know with the CP 9 plate (that has 8 fixed fastener holes) that the plate creates two flat spots between the fasteners on each section. Every free float plate I've seen from Tyrolia and Atomic has the fasteners in a groove that provides optimum free flex.

Many race plates do not provide free flex, The race plates on my 2003 Fischer Worldcup skis are not free-flex plates, but they offer superb performance.

Cheers,

Michael
post #18 of 29
Maybe where we are getting confused is what you call a plate and what i call aplate.

When i say plate i mean the riser plate screwed into the ski.

with the Tyrolia FF or all Atomic bindings, i don't think it makes any difference which riser plate you are mounting the bindings into, the binding still flexes in it's own track, because the heel piece is connected to the toe by a flexible rod and the heel piece floats in it's own track and is not fixed. the track it flexes in is fixed?
post #19 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
Maybe where we are getting confused is what you call a plate and what i call aplate.

When i say plate i mean the riser plate screwed into the ski.

with the Tyrolia FF or all Atomic bindings, i don't think it makes any difference which riser plate you are mounting the bindings into, the binding still flexes in it's own track, because the heel piece is connected to the toe by a flexible rod and the heel piece floats in it's own track and is not fixed. the track it flexes in is fixed?
I'm being very specific, CP 13, CP 9, Fischer WC Race Plate. The CP 13 provides 13mm of lift, CP 9 provides 9mm, etc...

Basically a plate section (most plates have two sections) can be fixed or floating depending on design. Floating plates are normally attached with two pair of screws, with one pair that allows the plate to slide forward and back a few mm, just enough to permit flex. the CP 13 plate is like this.

Below is pictured a 11 mm plate from Elan (made by Tyrolia for free-flex bindings).



Its not easy to see, but the front and rear pair of screws are in elongated holes that allow the plate to provide free flex.

Below is the CP 9 plate:




The 8 screws`are installed without the ability to flex. This plate produces a short flat section between the screws in each section of the plate.

Cheers,

Michael
post #20 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by extremecarver View Post
Its easy on the freeflex. It got 24mm of range for adjustment. Put it in to the next mark by lifting it with a big screwdriver. Then put the boot back in. Exactly have of the metal thing you have just lifted now has to dissapper. (See the range printed on it- perfect is if it matches at the middle mark, a bit shorter is not a great problem, having 3/4 off the marked line seeable is prone to prerelease).
Finndog:

There is a tab at the back of the heel piece. You lift up the tab to release the heel and slide it around. The "exactly have of the metal thing you have has to disappear" is the forward pressure adjustment. That same metal tab has ruler marks scribed on the top. With the boot in the binding, the edge of the binding should fall in the middle of the ruler.

But, as barrettscv says, the toe is fixed. The adjustment is all in the heel.
post #21 of 29
Free Flex refers to the binding, not the plate. A FF binding will allow the heel to float even if it is mounted flat.

Like Atomicman I have the Vist plate on a SL RD, '06 w/ FF+ 14, you don't need the CP plate for the FF to work. That is not to say that your plate choice does not effect ski flex, it does.
post #22 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by tief schnee View Post
Free Flex refers to the binding, not the plate. A FF binding will allow the heel to float even if it is mounted flat.

Like Atomicman I have the Vist plate on a SL RD, '06 w/ FF+ 14, you don't need the CP plate for the FF to work. That is not to say that your plate choice does not effect ski flex, it does.
tief,

Thanks for the "Amen" . I knew that! I was trying to be more subtle here (then our last encounter) making sure I understood what he was saying. But I agree with and what I ws subtly trying to get at is exactly what you posted!

Thanks!
post #23 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by tief schnee View Post
...That is not to say that your plate choice does not effect ski flex, it does.
Exactly

Cheers,

michael
post #24 of 29
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gandalf View Post
Finndog:

There is a tab at the back of the heel piece. You lift up the tab to release the heel and slide it around. The "exactly have of the metal thing you have has to disappear" is the forward pressure adjustment. That same metal tab has ruler marks scribed on the top. With the boot in the binding, the edge of the binding should fall in the middle of the ruler.

But, as barrettscv says, the toe is fixed. The adjustment is all in the heel.

Thnnks for the translation, that was the part I couldn't decipher. I found the metal tab and will adjust once I get my boots back from the fitter.

Thanks to all!
post #25 of 29
Sorry Atomicman about the confusion I created about the floating heel on the FF binding. It is supposed to float regardless of what is under it. The CP13 plate further enhances the ski flex since it has its own "floating" sections.
post #26 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB View Post
Sorry Atomicman about the confusion I created about the floating heel on the FF binding. It is supposed to float regardless of what is under it. The CP13 plate further enhances the ski flex since it has its own "floating" sections.
I knew That!
post #27 of 29
Well, Vist WCRV plate for example is so much freeflexing it doesn't even need to have a freeflex binding ontop! At least that's what Vist claims.
Each piece is only fixed by two flowting screws. (2 piece plate).
You can adjust the amount of free flex it allows by changing the glue tape. I am sure however that it does not flex as much as the Tyrolia binder. Well actually it flexes so few I have a hard time trying to deform the middle section of my ski more than a few mm by hand. But hey, I like a very hard middle section. It gives a lot of grip on ice
post #28 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Finndog View Post
I need to adjust my bindings from 315 to 304. How do I take the binding apart? These are Free Flex not Rail flex (they are easy!). Also, the sole length is 304, the binding break points are 300 then 305, do you set them to 300?

Thanks
Depending on what plate you have you should be able to remount the toe also into pre-drilled holes (if the palte has them) with out doing any drilling. Mount the heel in the same way & then adjust the forward pressure appropriately.
post #29 of 29
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
tief,

Thanks for the "Amen" . I knew that! ..............
Lets not get your panties in a bunch.
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