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new skis - any tuning needed

post #1 of 26
Thread Starter 
Getting some new skis soon. I presume these will have been grinded & tuned by the manufacturer? The shop is giving them an initial waxing. Will I have to do anything more before skiing on them for the first time?

For maintenance after that, I'm thinking of getting this set:
http://www.facewest.co.uk/pp/dakine/deluxetuneupkit.htm

It's £40 / $75 though - can't find anything cheaper at the moment...
Will that do the job ?
post #2 of 26
post #3 of 26
Thread Starter 
That's the sort of price I'm looking for but for something in the UK.
There is a seller on eBay calling himself Tools4Boards but sells the equivalent kit for £37+postage coming to about $80
post #4 of 26
Is we could get the tuning kit into a Flat Rate Global Priority Envelope, it'd cost $10 for shipping, otherwise $19.

Tools4Boards is the manufacturer and our supplier, and I encourage you or anyone to buy high value and quality tools, vises, stands & waxes, directly from them, if not us.
post #5 of 26
Thread Starter 
Okay, I'll have a look...

Now onto the 2nd point...
Will my new skis need tuning? Should I rewax them several times, sharpen the edges, etc. or should they be fine out of the factory and ski shop 1 wax coat?
They are HEAD Monster iM 72s
post #6 of 26
post #7 of 26
FYI I just talked to Rick, the owner of Tools4Boards in Calgary. His brother lives in London, is a rep for T4B products and has some tuning kits and other supplies. If you want his email address, please send a PM to me and I'll be glad to get you two connected.
post #8 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by GordonFreeman View Post
Okay, I'll have a look...

Now onto the 2nd point...
Will my new skis need tuning? Should I rewax them several times, sharpen the edges, etc. or should they be fine out of the factory and ski shop 1 wax coat?
They are HEAD Monster iM 72s
NO. your skis come prepped ready to ski. Although rare, but sometimes, after they left the factory, the bases shrink a bit more than expected, making the bases edge high and a tune-up necessary. but you will never have a factory tune again, so ski them as is, and then, if you don't like them, tune.
post #9 of 26
Does anyone know where I can get the factory tuning specs for Fischer skis?

Specifically the RX8 and AMC 79.

thanks
post #10 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by stoweguy View Post
Does anyone know where I can get the factory tuning specs for Fischer skis?
1 base/3 side edge

slaloms .5 or 1 base (personal preference) 3 side edge.
post #11 of 26
thanks. I just found out that the shop from which I just purchased my RX8's detuned the tips and tails. Their explanation was that most people over buy skis so this way, they ski well no matter what level you are.
post #12 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by stoweguy View Post
thanks. I just found out that the shop from which I just purchased my RX8's detuned the tips and tails. Their explanation was that most people over buy skis so this way, they ski well no matter what level you are.
Detuning tips & tails is personal preference. It depends on what they mean by "detuned" and what you think of the skis perfromance that way. if you like them, great. if not you can certainly resharpen the tips 7 tails without changing the bevels.

If you do resharpen, be sure to deburr them. if you do not like them ththat sharp and you fins the ksi grabby, slightly increase the base bevel at the tip & tail rather then dull them.
post #13 of 26
^"Detuning tips & tails is personal preference"

I hear that!

I am personally a HUGE fan of having both my tips and tails detuned. I've demoed many a ski and had it jitter and squirrel in the tip or grab and cling in the tail (i.e. they were somewhat over-tuned with the tip and tail edges being too sharp).

Sadly, I am not wise in the ways of tuning. Thankfully my old college chum is, so I usually have him do a quick detune at lunch break.

I had both my Karmas and Mantras detuned (Mantras in Utah; Karmas in Breckinridge) both after first days out where they were jittery and/or grabby. Once I had them detuned they rocked.
post #14 of 26
Often times though it is a hanging burr which was not knocked off properly at the last tune.
post #15 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by GordonFreeman View Post
Getting some new skis soon. I presume these will have been grinded & tuned by the manufacturer? The shop is giving them an initial waxing. Will I have to do anything more before skiing on them for the first time?
For maintenance after that, I'm thinking of getting this set:
http://www.facewest.co.uk/pp/dakine/deluxetuneupkit.htm
It's £40 / $75 though - can't find anything cheaper at the moment...
Will that do the job ?
GordonFreeman, leave the factory edges as they are.

However, new skis are shipped with only a surface transit wax & the bases still contain crap in the form of dust, dirt & emulsifiers from the manufacturing process. The factory wax is also for protection rather than performance.

The crap needs to be cleaned out & by hot scraping with a warm, low melting point wax. Then the more wax applications you can give the skis the better as it really loads up the base which greatly improves performance & protection. Even better are the specific waxes just for this purpose like Dominator Zoom Base Renew or Holmenkol Base Prep for which one application is like multiple applications of normal wax. Between each wax cycle (leaving the wax to fully cool before scraping) give the skis loads of brass brushing & fiberpad passes. Top World Cup tuners may do 50 waxes & scrape cycles plus mega brushing on their race skis before they’re skied on so don’t think you’re being anal by doing it a few times!

Where are you in the UK? I run my own tuning products business & hand tuning service & would be pleased to put you together a package to use your requirements & budget.

You can contact me by PM or better still at skituning@btinternet(dot)co.uk
post #16 of 26
DO NOT detune tips and tails on shaped skis, they will wash out and you will not be happy.
post #17 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by hairybones View Post
DO NOT detune tips and tails on shaped skis, they will wash out and you will not be happy.
This is a gross overexaggeration and absurd generalization!

I will repeat a reasonable suggestion: It is personal preference. It depends on many things, including but not limited to:

Your technique
Your ability
How much you detune
your alignment
snow conditions

I would suggest you start with them sharp (I still dull the areas past the contact points in the tip & the tail) and then gingerly take some sharpness off as you go on the hill. All you need is a coarse gummi stone in your pocket. rub llightly at 45 degree angle,from the contact points towards the center of the ski about 2" if you decide you don't like how they ski sharp. If you love them sharp, go skiing!!!!
post #18 of 26
I got to the point where I don't tune skis..I sell them.
post #19 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Pugliese View Post
I got to the point where I don't tune skis..I sell them.
I tune 'em then sell 'em
post #20 of 26
its really impossible to not spend a lot on tuning material, and you do need to tune your skis after you get them, but it seems that the shop is taking care of that. You don't even need a vise if you're just starting off, cause the low-end file guides are pretty user-friendly and they don't need the ski to be quite as stable. If you're looking to splurge, http://reliableracing.com/detail.cfm...&category=2400 is good, I started with it.
post #21 of 26
A-Man is on-the-money with his points about dulling the tips & tails. I like mine sharp, 'cuz I'm carving. Folks who skid their turns need duller tips & tails. If you'd like to experiment, leave them sharp and carry a small stone with you. If the edges are indeed deburred, and the skis still feel grabby to you, dull the tips & tails for a very short distance. If that helps but not enough, dull a longer area. Keep doing this until you achieve the maximum smile on your face...that's the right tune for you.


Ken
post #22 of 26
In April '06, on my Metron 9s, the shop guy drew blood while mounting my bindings. I assume that means my edges were sharp enough. Dumb question, but I do want my skis to be all that they can be. I did ski 5 days on those skis and they have been waxed twice.
post #23 of 26
Even on boiler plate snow, you should detune the tips and tail about 2 to 4 inches from the point where they come in contact., To find this point, put both skis base to base . Without any pressure. that is the contact point. From that point to the ends could be detuned with a stone so there is no longer any sharpness. from that point back ( toward each other)_ 2-4" you can play with beveling the edge 2-to 3 degrees to suit your needs and style of skiing, wheather you make abrupt turns or smooth archs.
post #24 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderjon View Post
However, new skis are shipped with only a surface transit wax & the bases still contain crap in the form of dust, dirt & emulsifiers from the manufacturing process. The factory wax is also for protection rather than performance.

The crap needs to be cleaned out & by hot scraping with a warm, low melting point wax. Then the more wax applications you can give the skis the better as it really loads up the base which greatly improves performance & protection.
Is this the case for every ski manufactured? Or only certain brands? I was under the impression that bases on skis from the factory are ready to go as is.
post #25 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpking View Post
Even on boiler plate snow, you should detune the tips and tail about 2 to 4 inches from the point where they come in contact., To find this point, put both skis base to base . Without any pressure. that is the contact point. From that point to the ends could be detuned with a stone so there is no longer any sharpness. from that point back ( toward each other)_ 2-4" you can play with beveling the edge 2-to 3 degrees to suit your needs and style of skiing, wheather you make abrupt turns or smooth archs.
Why don't you just buy skis 2-4 inches shorter, or the same size in a softer ski? It'll have a similar effect.
post #26 of 26
The factory tune on most new skis is better than what most shops can do with their machines. If you have a shop that really knows what they are doing, they can hand tune your new skis and make them ski better. If you are a competent ski tuner, you can tune your new skis and make them ski better. If neither you nor your shop are competent to hand tune, ski them the way they are.
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