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Metron B5 skiers - detune or no?

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
I know the to detune or not debate has been addressed many times, but I figured I'd ask about the B5's in particular. I picked up a lightly used pair at the end of last season. I got out one day on them and had a blast. I did notice they are definitely detuned on the tips and tails, but with the snow being soft that day I'm sure it wouldn't have made much difference either way.

Now, preparing for this season I'm leaning toward not detuning at all, especially since I ski exclusively on hard eastern snow (mostly Mid-Atlantic) and I'm specifically into carving performance.

I'd love to here anyone's take who skis the b5's. Thanks.
post #2 of 16
Mine are the same way and that's how I got them from the shop when I bought them new. When I finally get a base grind I'm going to leave them sharp tip to tail.
post #3 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walks View Post
I know the to detune or not debate has been addressed many times, but I figured I'd ask about the B5's in particular. I picked up a lightly used pair at the end of last season. I got out one day on them and had a blast. I did notice they are definitely detuned on the tips and tails, but with the snow being soft that day I'm sure it wouldn't have made much difference either way.

Now, preparing for this season I'm leaning toward not detuning at all, especially since I ski exclusively on hard eastern snow (mostly Mid-Atlantic) and I'm specifically into carving performance.

I'd love to here anyone's take who skis the b5's. Thanks.
Start sharp and ski 'em and see what you think.

The only way to tell is to ski on them. the degree of sharpness in tip & tail is a function of personal preference, technique and alignment.

another suggestion rather then detuning is to slightly increase the base bevel in the tip and tail, but keep them sharp.

1 & 3 is the recommended bevels.
post #4 of 16
The can feel a little hooky if they are tuned well at 1 & 3. I like them that way, even here in Colorado. YMMV. But, the only way you'll know is to tune 'em and ski 'em. Take a stone... you can detune if you need to do.
post #5 of 16
I believe Atomicman meant , bottom bevel of 3 degrees near tip and tail.
post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
another suggestion rather then detuning is to slightly increase the base bevel in the tip and tail, but keep them sharp.

1 & 3 is the recommended bevels.
So 1 & 2 along the mid section and 1 & 3 at the tips and tails?
post #7 of 16
No.

Atomics recommended bevels are 1 & 3 => 1 base, 3 side.
post #8 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walks View Post
So 1 & 2 along the mid section and 1 & 3 at the tips and tails?
Atomic sets the main contact area of the ski at 1 base/3 edge which I think is what Atomicman was saying. It looks like B5 has a factory detuned tip/tail (can anyone confirm).

For detuning the tip and tail I like the idea of taking a stone with you and then detuning after a run or two if you don't like the feel of a sharp edge in that area.

If you decide to go the multi angle approach you could start with a 1.5 or 2 degree base on the tip and tail and if you didn't like that you could move up. I had a friend that tried that on his B5s and he hated it.
post #9 of 16
Thread Starter 
Side, base - I guess I will always mix them up!!

OK, Atomic recommends 1 base 3 side tip to tail, so I'll start there and see how it goes.

Thanks all.
post #10 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRAZYHAWK View Post
I believe Atomicman meant , bottom bevel of 3 degrees near tip and tail.
Absolutely not.

I meant a 1 base bevel and 3 side edge. I meant you would only slightly increase the 1 to a 1.25 or 1.5 max in the tip and tail.

A 3 would be ridiculous on the base edge. We always quote base bevel/side bevel.
post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walks View Post
So 1 & 2 along the mid section and 1 & 3 at the tips and tails?

Just slightly increase base bevel from the contact point maybe an 1 1/2 to 2 inches towar the middle. I am not advocating a mutli bevel approach just a slight increase, only if they are too hooky for you, in a very limited area at the tip & tail!

Most of the time the hookiness is not a function of sharpness but a poor job of removing the hanging burr created from sharpening the side edge or if you use a SVSt or Beast base beveler, because of the concavity in the tip & tail of most wide skis including the B5, you end up underbeveled in these critical areas. That is why I use TOKO's WC base beveler, which spans the entire width of the ski and does not have a glide that sits in the low spots in the tip & tail!
post #12 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
Just slightly increase base bevel from the contact point maybe an 1 1/2 to 2 inches towar the middle. I am not advocating a mutli bevel approach just a slight increase if they are too hooky for you in a very limited area at the tip & tail!
That makes sense. I'll keep that in mind when I try them out. Thanks.
post #13 of 16
I don't detune mine. Aman is right, if I find my B5's a little hooky it is usually a burr that needs removed. For this reason I always run stones in a jig set at 1 and 3 over my edges after I sharpen them, especially if someone else sharpens them. later, RicB.
post #14 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman View Post
Just slightly increase base bevel from the contact point maybe an 1 1/2 to 2 inches towar the middle. I am not advocating a mutli bevel approach just a slight increase, only if they are too hooky for you, in a very limited area at the tip & tail!

Most of the time the hookiness is not a function of sharpness but a poor job of removing the hanging burr created from sharpening the side edge or if you use a SVSt or Beast base beveler, because of the concavity in the tip & tail of most wide skis including the B5, you end up underbeveled in these critical areas. That is why I use TOKO's WC base beveler, which spans the entire width of the ski and does not have a glide that sits in the low spots in the tip & tail!
here is the base bevelr that spans the concavity

http://www.reliableracing.com/detail...&category=2000
post #15 of 16
The infamous hanging burr! You nailed that two years ago for me A- Man. Just a quick fix with a stone and you can tranform a spooky pair of skis that can scare the B- Jesus out of you into a great performing ski again. Its amazing how many shops ignore this when they tune skis. Ugh!
post #16 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by roundturns View Post
The infamous hanging burr! You nailed that two years ago for me A- Man. Just a quick fix with a stone and you can tranform a spooky pair of skis that can scare the B- Jesus out of you into a great performing ski again. Its amazing how many shops ignore this when they tune skis. Ugh!
I could not of said it better myself!!!!!! You have described the transformation perfectly and the fact many shops are either ignorant, or lazy or both!
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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › Metron B5 skiers - detune or no?