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canting and inlines

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Does canting work for inlines skates?

I'm grotesquely bowlegged, so my blades point togther. I have a natural 'O-frame'. What can I do?
post #2 of 5

I know SO MANY inline skaters who would be absurdly envious. They would insist that you do not need that inside edge.

Oh, the rain envy!

Starting assumptions:
- you have a frame that can be removed from the boot using some version of a 2-bolt or 3-bolt attachment
- Any pronation is controlled inside the boot or by side-to-side frame position or by an external ankle stabilizer such as available from
various companies:
- your upper skate cuff won't cut into your leg afterwards due to the cuff tilt being off (quite a problem with some speed/fitness skates that tend to rely on the top ratchet for heel control)

Some options to experiment with

- shims from Tognar cut into sections
- Bont stackable 1 degree shims
- Very minor canting is sometimes called 'tabbing' by speed skaters from the practice of inserting a leather tab on one side of the screw.
- some other shimming. Andy Lundstrom of Xenan used to put out 1-7 degree "Wedge" that may be still available; I've cut down some Wobble Wedges
before, etc.

Side issues:
- Frame sliding/ bolts loosening. Loctite or other threadlocker is a given here.
There are bolts with washers designed to bite into the frame:

or, if you have a goofball proprietary system such as older Mogema or the Raps oval one, a plastic insert into the frame slot can work. I've used a cut-down wine cork in Tecnica frames and a piece of plastic campout fork sanded to shape on a curbstone in R'blade frames.

- Bolt length and threading direction. You should be able to fit up to 2-degree shims and still use the same bolts; 3 degrees is chancy.

One reason I like the Adams inline SS washers is the beveled face to help stop cross-threading.

- @#$@#^^&! cuff tilt. No direct solution here, except a looser top strap and perhaps a neoprene bootie such as
or the shin splint one shown here:
http://www.orthomedicalsupplies.com/...gory_Co de=ab
Sorry. Them's the breaks.

(EDIT: actually not quite true older hardshell rec skates, some older Salomon and some R'blade speedness skates have a shell+bootie design that lets us glue foam pads in between much like in ski boots. Be very careful not to make pronation worse here- skates are quite likely to be a 2 axis system with rotation about the ankle and rotation about the wheel bottom rather than just a simple one-axis system with rotation about the ski bottom)
post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
That's great info. Thanks so much!

They would not envy my medial compartment damage.
post #4 of 5
You're the second person this season to say that.

The other was a hockey player and is still a skateboarder; with feet shoulder and a half width apart and his knees together he is still on his outside edges.

WTF is it about hockey?
post #5 of 5
Thread Starter 
Hockey won't cause the O-frame, but if you have them it will damage it more than you expect. Consider the hockey stop, and the exponential loading of the meniscus as the leg is flexed.

As you know, this is not like skiing -- the edge grip is far more intense, and the forces are far higher than skiing. When you DO stop and restart, the restart is almost always in the other direction.

Consider the next move that occurs -- the shoulders twist for the body to face the new direction in preparation for the stepping and gliding. The skate from which the player pushes off is deeply embedded into the ice -- it does not move.

The result is a torque applied to the knee. The torque is unavoidable. As you become more and more proficient, you start to rotate towards the new direction *while* you are stopping. So, while the pressure is not yet maximized, your giving your knee a twist, and push the blade into the ice.

In an O-frame the bulk of the load is borne by the medial compartment. Twisting makes that load unequally balanced within the medial comparment itself, which further decreases the load area.

Advice to hockey players: Don't twist to the new direction before you've stopped and begin ALL your direction changes with a cross-over -- the first big push is off the outside edge of the trailing skate. SMOOTHLY put the skate down to glide.

I've seen many that literally run on the inside edges, ice chips flying. Imagine the shock that travels up the shin and is absorbed by -- you guessed it -- the medial compartment.

Enough horror stories. There are a HUGE number of ways to damage your meniscus.
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