Originally Posted by Rusty Guy
1. the side should TYPICALLY be one degree different than the base. why? a 1/3 or 2/4 tune would certainly be sharp initially, however, it would also dull very, very fast.
This is a misnomer that I have never found to be true.
No one should ski on-piste with a 2 degree base bevel ever and particularly on a slalom ski. Max 1 degree base and ideally a 3 degree side edge.
the 3 degree side stays sharp just as long as a 2 degree but holds much better on hard snow. there is no downside to a 3 degree for more off piste skis either.
As far as creating angles. You can create the same angles on a .5, 1, 2 or more base edge bevel, it is just a matter of when you get to the edge initially.
I have skied on over base beveled skis and the are slippery, unpredictable and if you don't ski with extreme angles adn get way inside of your skis you can't carve. maybe a good teaching tool to help folks get their skis out from under their body, but no how, no way could I stand a steady diet on a daily basis. 1 degree is the best compromise for most skiers and that is why almost all skis call for a 1 degree base bevel by the factory.
Check out Mike de Santis' posts. i can't think of his screen name, but he owns Precision tuning centers and posted a lot on here at one time. he used to be the Volkl national tech rep or product manager. He wil confirm what i have posted here.
I have 2004-05 Laser WC SL. they are .5 & 3.
the ideal base bevel depends on the steepness of the slopes you will be skiing on. flatter slope = more bae bevel, steeper slope equals less. this was proven in ski Racing magazine, where they had the same racer on the same day ski with different bevels on different slopes and times them. the outcome was as I have stated. the flatter the slope the faster the skier with increased base bevel and vice-versa.
a .75 may be a really good all around base bevel. SVSt makes a .7 base beveler.