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Base Shots? Repair

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
In my last 4 days of skiing I collected about 5 base shots. Well some for sure and some others? Have clear bases and in some of the gouges there's a section that looks like a bubble - no longer clear. Has the clear ptex seperated from the base? probably and to repair does the bubble have to be removed? These are my semi roock skis so going to the shop to repair is not an option. I know that standard drip ptex repair down to the base will probably pop out. But was thinking of getting a ptex gun and getting some ptex for base repairs. Any thoughts.

Thanks Doug
post #2 of 7
dripping wont work on big core shots especially if they're near an edge. I use epoxy and base material. Just cut out the munched up ptex. then take masking tape and place it over the hole. Use your knife to slice the tape using the sides of the hole for guides, the peel the tape off and youll have a template to cut out the right size piece of base. You may want to use base material that is thicker than your skis base and then scrape it down with a base file until flat.
also first thing Id buy is a set of vices. nothing worse than reefing down on a ski then have flip out of what ever you using to hold it...especially wihle holding a sharp object.<FONT size="1">

[This message has been edited by blur (edited January 03, 2001).]</FONT>
post #3 of 7
By far my best tuning equipment investment has been the Tognar base repair iron (really just a soldering gun that keeps the right temp) and the copolymer base repair string (don't bother with the p-tex ribbon, which hasn't given me good results). My repairs with this have been even *better* than shop quality, adhering to just about anything, although be warned that the iron lacks any safety features, so be sure not to burn yourself!

Also, ignore their instruction on how to trim the material and instead do the following:
1. Get one of those cheap hardware store retractable straight-edge razor holders; rectangular, rounded at one end, and the other end the razor comes out.
2. Wait for the material to cool (just a minute or so).
3. Hold the razor as close to flush/parallel with the ski base, i.e., *not* pointing down into the base like you're scraping off wax, but kind of flat like you're flat filing (in days of old).
4. Now trim the excess material: the goal is to cut it off cleanly, without exerting any downward vector, which will tend to pull the material out of the repair.

Hope this makes sense! Hard to describe in writing, but this material has worked very well repairing a gouge that is too painful to relate...
post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
I know exactualy of the material of which you post as I ordered a iron and supplies right after I posted. But wouldn't you use the ptex ribbon on non base gouges and use the co polymer stuff where bases edges are involved. I could see the ptex ribbon being harder to work with as it should have a higher melting temperature than nornmal drip repair ptex. With 5 base shots and numberous other gouges I'll be getting lots of practice.
Did you buy anything else from Tognar that was useful?

Thanks Doug
post #5 of 7
Doug, theoretically, yes, the ptex ribbon should be better for standard repairs, but somehowI never got good, clean fills with it. Might just be that I don't have the right touch/technique for it though...
post #6 of 7
For heavy duty core shots, I use a template, base material and epoxy. Its a permanent fix if you do it correctly and doesn't hinder wax absorbtion.

Copolymer sticks to everything, is flexible, and I highly recommend it if you don't mind having a spot where wax does not absorb. I used to melt it in with a propane torch, however the Tognar repair iron is much better for this I'm sure. I never had good results trying to layer ptex on top of copolymer.

For scratches and minor stuff, I just use a drip candle. The key is to maintain a blue flame(don't let it burn orange). To do this, keep it low to the base or close to a metal scraper. This will minimize carbon buildup.

For clean up work, I use a 12" Panzar file. This removes large quantities of excess material, cleanly and fast.

- Paul
post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
I hadn't thought about that the co polymer you couldn't wax. Amout of area is overall fairly small. Good point.
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