Thank you very much for your input woodee. Your advise is very valuable but there is one thing I find contradicting and it maybe one of my biggest setbacks: - ski a straighter line but create higher horisontal angles! How do I do that??? Heres my reasoning:
Not enough horisontal angles!
I should take a lower stance and try to extend my leggs and upper body into the turn. This way my skis would be put on a higher edge angle since they would be further away from my body. Body should be vertical with shoulders horizontal. Leggs should be crossing under quickly while upper body should stay in place. I should keep horizoontal moovement of my body to a minimum.
You also note that I have too much vertical moovement and this is clearly linked to what I have reasoned here above. With my technique in the video I have problems with creating strong pressure on skis during the turn. This is probably because trying to lower my body into the turn takes too much time. If I extended my leggs insted it would be much quicker and there would be less up down movement of my body that only creates distortion in CM moovement that should be cept to a minimum sideways and vertically. CM should be mooving forwards as fluedly as possible.
You are right, I look at the gates because I need to block them. I never look at the snow or the base of the gate. I will try to consentrate on this at my next gate session.
Aggression and start
Aggression up a noch or two! Yes, I need to do that as well. Especially at the start. You mentioned that earlier and I feel like Bodie and not like Pranger at the start. I most likely loose a second right at the start by not using my skipoles enough combined with scating stepps.
If we look at my equipment next some have suggested I try softer skis. My 165cm FIS Race Stock skis are made for male FIS racers and could be to hard for me to bend into tight carves. If I look at my opponents they mostly have FIS racing gear all of them so thats why I was thinking that would be the best thing for me as well. However, here are some ski properties that could be considered:
- Shape of ski
- I could choose a shorter ski, lets say 160 or even a 155 for our small hill competitions.
- I could choose a turnier ski with more shape to it. Shortening the length would automatically make it turnier. This way I could ski the same ski just shorter.
- Choosing a softer ski is not possible if I stay with Head. Buying a cap ski is not a good option since I loose the thin racing edges, special base material, VIST racing plate and ski construction. There is only this one sandwich model available, iSL RD. Ok, supershape but is that a good SL ski? I doubt it!
- I like the VIST racing plates because they are sturdy and rigid. Main thing is that I get the 55mm standheight and good ski flex.
- I tune my edges to 87deg and now with a flat base angle after each day of skiing. How do I know its flat? Because the man in the shop said so and there is same texture on edges as on base. I have smoothened that out with a diamond.
- I wax my skis with Holmenkollen wax after each day of skiing. I give them at least one layer but sometimes as much as 3-5 that I hotscrape and brush between applying new wax. If I race I use or if its cold I use temp specific hard wax or fluor.
- Im using Head because our ski school has a contract with them but that is just for teaching. When I race I can use whatever I want but it makes sence to use same brand. However, if I could nock 2-4 sec off by swapping to Atomic I would do it tomorrow. I have previously really liked Atomic but they would be very expensive for me to buy. Maybe I could get some second hand but racing skis wear out really quickly so if only possible I would stick to new ones.
Originally Posted by Woodee
Nice video. You’re a solid skier making nice turns. Because you asked about info specifically to the racing aspect … I notice:
You’re on a nice line, but you could go straighter (see #5). Let ‘em run.
Take the aggression level up 2 or 3 notches. It’s slalom – you should wake up mad.
I notice that you’re looking at the gate at eye level, which I guess is because you’re eyeing up where you’re going to block it with your hand. You should be looking at the base where you’re going to shin it out of the way.
Also, you have too much vertical motion and not enough horizontal/angles. Some of this may have gone away if this was early season ...