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Edge Tuning Gear.. What do you use??

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
Hey guys.. I'm thinking about getting some new tuning supplies for my toolbox. I specifically was thinking about getting some new tools for more accurate edge bevelling. Right now, I have a 90º and 88º file guides (the type you use a spring clamp with) and Swix base bevelling sleeves (in assorted angles). I'm confident that my tuning skills are solid, and my skis are always razor sharp, however, my gear is a few years old, and I'd like to replace some of it (the plastic bevelling sleves are definitely starting to show signs of wear ). I'm particularily interested in getting an 89º side edge guide, and a 1º base bevelling guide.

Anyone have any suggestions of certain products to consider? The Ski Man base bevelling guide and the Toko World cup file guides look pretty good at Reliable Racing's website.. I also saw some interesting guides with bearings, and sidewall planning gadgets in them.. Any reviews that you feel like sharing would be much appreciated! [img]smile.gif[/img]

I'm somewhat weary of adjustable guides, and any that seem to be too gadgety?? But I'm open to all suggestions.
post #2 of 10
I've been using the Beast base bevel guide and Side of Beast guide. Both work great.
post #3 of 10
Out of all the tools Ive used I found a bunch of them to be pretty cheezy.

I do find the solid extrude edge guides to work best - just like the one you mention with the spring clamp.

For base bevel I use electrical tape out of all things. If you take the Tan of the angle you get exactly your thickness for your required base edge angle. Ive found these to work much better than those pull on sleve dealys.

I started using the electrical tape after I talked to a few long time techs who really know their stuff. Also seems to glide better and be less damaging to the base than those hard little sleves.

post #4 of 10
All good ideas. Tape can wear down, changing the angle, but you can watch for this.

I just use a $38 edging tool. works fine, doesn't hurt the base. press down firmly, trying to keep the ski flat. The camber of the ski can change the angle or not allow the edger to hit in certain spots. other than that, this is not rocket science. a few thousandths of a degree off isn't going to make any difference whehter you edges make it into the snow or not.
This is akin to a guy who posted earlier about being miffed that his binding mount looked ever-so-slightly off center. This seemed a bit silly to me since there are at least 3 different ways to measure ski center, center ski mark is not the size of a mark on a micrometer or calipur, neither are the center marks on the binding jigs we use.
This and edging tools' precision are therefore rendered moot. I imagine, then, to use the tool that works easiest and best for you; one that produces a nice, smooth, sharp edge. But remember, too sharp an edge can make the ski grabby and unpredictable. Also, razor-sharp edges get nicked easier. I/we have been warned about this many times in wax/tune clinics I've attended and articles we have all read. But then, they are your skis. How do you want them?
post #5 of 10
I have used a fixed angle (90) plastic file holder for the past several years. (It's blue, FS or something like) I don't like adjustable tools that are difficult to reset. I adjust the side bevel angle with shims of tape on the surface that references the base of the ski. These small tools give consistant edge bevel over any ski shape or geometry because they reference the base.
I just went to the sporting goods store to pick up a replacement file. NO LUCK. so there is a down side.

.017 inches per inch = 1 degree.

I use 0.5 degree side bevel, with no base bevel. i.e. flat. That's several layers of masking tape for me.

I scrape away extra edge plastic with the butt end of a file to keep the edge file clean.

Base bevel is more difficult because most of the tools reference the opposite edge of the ski. With big side cut skis, this is no good. No base bevel dodges this issue.
Filing the base and base edges is a pain. I spent about an hour last night flattening high base centers with sand paper on a flat block and quit befor the job was done. I have not found a file that was effective removing P-Tex. I want a base machine!
Perhaps the high center does the job of base bevel. I do keep a good straight edge to confirm base profile.

I always stone the edges before bringing out the files so the hard spots don't dull them. Still, the sharpness on files doesn't last long. Edge metal is hard!

I use a vixen file mounted on a flat wood block to put the edge on my plastic scraper.

I always finish the hot wax with a long stroke cross hatch of a wire brush and a quick rub with a scotch brite pad.

post #6 of 10
see my comments in the Atomic Tune thread
post #7 of 10
Here´s what i use:
1-ski vise,homemade
2-gummi stone for removing oxide
3-briko orange stone(i think its oxide)for ititial deburring
4-toko 88º file guide for side edge,file and pincer
5-toko blue diamond stone for final polishing
6-toko "mouse" wax iron,love it.

Things i don´t do:
-I don´t level ski bases,it´s extremely difficult and time consuming to do a half decent job.Minimum once a year take them to a shop with a diamond stone machine,avoid beltsanders.
-I don´t fool around too much with base edges,most times the file will not reach the base edge unless you increase the base bevel,i deburr(oxide stone) and polish(diamond stone) and that´s it.As above,shop with "tuning" machine and NOT belt sander.
-Agonize over wax choice,unless you are a racer.
Just wax as often as possible to avoid base dryness.I reccomend a special purpose iron.

NOTE: I think i´m not the only one who thinks modern skis are more maintenance intensive,edges get dull quicker and bases (specially near the edges) get dry and fuzzy real fast.
On the good side,basic edge care/base wax is simple and quick and the results are really worth it.Try it!
post #8 of 10
Just to add to the tape idea. Take the thickness if a dime 1mm do the trig, and that way you don't need to worry about the thickness reducing on you.
post #9 of 10
For Base edge bevels I use the Sun Valley Ski tools bevel guide. I had the old Beast Base guide which I didn't like at all, but the new one is a lot better with a solid side where you hold it.
For the side edges I've been using the Side of Beast in the aluminum version with stainless plate. I like this tool a lot, though I'm thinking of getting a fixed degree edger because I get tired of changing the plates. ( I know this sounds lazy but if you do a lot of different skis it's a pain)
The Toko base guide looks good. The ski man I've always felt to be cheesy though a lot of people like it. FK seems to make a nice side edge guide now also.
post #10 of 10
whereas stone grinding is preferable, there is nothing wrong with a belt sander. Keep the belt in good conditon, change when necessary, dress it often, use a fine grit and take your time. Defuzz the bases afterwards and wax using many passes. Amount of bevel depends on the skier's prefferrences, so does detuning. There's nothing wrong with detuning; nothing wrong with not detuning. All I can report is the smiles on the faces of theknowledgable customers I have when they see their skis in their finished state, and later when they return, telling me how well their skis performed. CALG finishes his skis differently. That works for him.

On my website I post the vendors' base and side bevels from the factory. One changes these as one sees fit. As there is no 'one correct way' to ski, there is no 'one correct way' to wax or tune. Everyone has his or her preferences which may be ski-specific and skier specific. If your way works well for you, use it.

Some have many sets of skis. They might tune each set differently.
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