EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Ski Gear Discussion › Tyrolia Free Flex mount
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Tyrolia Free Flex mount

post #1 of 41
2/9/06 at 10:59am
Thread Starter 
Does anyone have a FreeFlex tech manual?

Mounting to a matching plate with holes numbered for different boot sole lengths.

Free Flex 14 binding. There are 5 pieces.

Toe
Heal
Metal track
Plastic Toe plate
Plastic piece 2

The plastic toe plate has 4 slots in it and its labled like this:

Left side Right Side
27 32
28 33
--- ---
29 34
--- ---
30 35
31 38
--- ---

Looking at the left side the slots line up (more or less) with
Slot 1: 27
Slot 2: 28
Slot 3: 30
Slot 4: under the last dash

Anyone know how to read this and decide which of the slots to use? In my case I have a 317mm sole length.

Plastic piece 2 (a rectangular piece of plastic about 4 inches long and 1.5" wide) has two marks in it. The first is 27-31 the 2nd is 32-35. Its obvious how you'd install it with the 32-35 mark, but how would you use the 27-31 mark? Which mark do you use for 317mm.

When the binding is installed and looking down at the the center of the track there is a gizmo with springs that has a screw that can be turned. What does this do and where should it be set?

Any help appreciated!
Reply
post #2 of 41
2/9/06 at 11:28am
It actually fits together pretty easily. The metal track engages in the heel piece and then matches up with the holes in the palstic toe piece that opens it up wide enough for your boot length.

The plastic piece 2 has 2 markings because for a smaller boot >310 you need to snap off part of it. In your case this won't be necessary.This part then engages in the bottom of the plastic toe plate (slot320 for you) and slides under the plastic of the heel piece so it can move freely.

The screw gizmo on the track can be used to effectively lock-up the free-flex mechanism springs. I can't say I have really noticed any difference buit I have only used them mounted on a race plate. I'm sure others here can comment differently
Reply
post #3 of 41
2/9/06 at 12:49pm
What He ^^^ said.
Reply
post #4 of 41
2/9/06 at 5:28pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the response. Can you give any more detail on how to decide which slot to use in the plastic toe piece? For example what would you do if you are a 314? Do you use the 31 slot or the 32 slot? What boots sizes are for the slot that is between 29/30 on the left and 34/35 on the right?
Reply
post #5 of 41
2/10/06 at 8:56am
Max

It is really simple, just try assembling it on the bench first if you are unsure. I would suggest you use the 320 slot. IIRC correctly the 310 is for the shortened plate, you will not need to snap it off. The plate does not have slots for each 1mm of boot length but uses 10 mm increments

FWIW, I mounted a set of free-flex on a Fischer WC GS last night and the whole process, including drilling, took less than 10 minutes. Only other thing to watch is the 2 forward screws on the toe piece which have asmaller head than the rest and really require a Posidrv #3 screwdriver to avoid chewing them up. These ones can be a PITA!

If you are still struggling to follow it after this, I would suggest perhaps you should consider getting it done professionally.
Reply
post #6 of 41
2/27/06 at 6:25pm
I have a similar setup but would like some more details if possible. I'm trying to mount a pair of Fischer FR11's (same as Tyrolia Free Flex I believe) to Fischer WC RC4 SC's with an undrilled but installed plastic race plate. I've mounted Neox bindings but that doesn't really count as the holes are pre-drilled, etc.

Does anyone have any binding mount 101 lessons or know of a good website? A search of this board reveals many "don't do it" comments but I can't imagine it's rocket science and my experience with the "pros" have been less than steller (120# wife's toe piece popped off, etc.). I'm guessing that I can remount a new race plate if I really screw up.

Trying to figure out:
*What size drill bit?
*Where to mount - center mark of boot to center mark of plate?
*How to preassemble to check for size - link the rail up and pop the boot in?
*My boots are 305mm - does that mean I have to break the plastic part?
*Do I need glue with plastic?

Any other tidbits are extremely appreciated.
Reply
post #7 of 41
2/27/06 at 11:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by goldsbar
I have a similar setup but would like some more details if possible. I'm trying to mount a pair of Fischer FR11's (same as Tyrolia Free Flex I believe) to Fischer WC RC4 SC's with an undrilled but installed plastic race plate. I've mounted Neox bindings but that doesn't really count as the holes are pre-drilled, etc.

Does anyone have any binding mount 101 lessons or know of a good website? A search of this board reveals many "don't do it" comments but I can't imagine it's rocket science and my experience with the "pros" have been less than steller (120# wife's toe piece popped off, etc.). I'm guessing that I can remount a new race plate if I really screw up.

Trying to figure out:
*What size drill bit?
*Where to mount - center mark of boot to center mark of plate?
*How to preassemble to check for size - link the rail up and pop the boot in?
*My boots are 305mm - does that mean I have to break the plastic part?
*Do I need glue with plastic?

Any other tidbits are extremely appreciated.
#1: If you have to ask what size drill bit to mount your own bindings, you shouldn't be mounting them yourself.

#2: If you have to ask where the center line of your boot goes in relation to the center line of your plate is, you shouldn't be mounting them yourself.

#3: If you can't figure out how to assemble the Freeflex system in a whole unit in order to mount them up, you shouldn't be mounting them yourself.

#4: If you can't read the manual that comes with the bindings, you shouldn't be mounting them yourself.

#5: If you can't understand that drilling into a woodcore ski (or any ski) requires glue, you shouldn't be mounting them yourself.

It took me longer to type this up than it should take to mount those bindings properly using the correct jig and equipment.
Reply
post #8 of 41
2/28/06 at 5:58am
1. Umm, why?
2. Ok, so it looks like I'm on the right track here.
3. What makes you think I can't assemble the unit? It's very easy. I'm simply asking about the plastic piece.
4. I don't have a manual. The one page instruction sheet is mostly a bunch of warnings about why I should have the shop set DINS.
5. Woodcore? I'm drilling into a plastic plate. It's highly doubtful that a screw would vibrate out of plastic and hole hole would be somewhat self sealing.

I'm very confident that this isn't rocket science.

Can anyone answer the original question? Thanks.
Reply
post #9 of 41
2/28/06 at 9:37am
Ditto on BakerBoy's comments.

goldsbar - you're in over your head and you don't even realize it.
Reply
post #10 of 41
2/28/06 at 10:12am
Usually
Reply
post #11 of 41
2/28/06 at 2:17pm
Don't take it too hard - it's just that I'd rather see you err on the side of caution and safety. You're right it's not rocket science, but at the same time it's really easy to screw it up and then you've toasted a pretty sizeable investment in your gear.
Reply
post #12 of 41
3/1/06 at 8:12am
I brought them to the shop. Still, I'm highly dissapointed that there's not much DIY info on this type of thing. If I wanted to know how to change the brake pads or even partially rebuild the transmission on a YZF600, that info is readily available on web forums. Same thing for just about any work on a bicycle - including welding.

For bindings - almost nothing. I realize the dangers, but there's dangers in the other tasks I've mentioned. I found some information on TGR about making templates out of plexiglass (I think I could have just attached the rail and popped my boots in and used the binding itself as a template but I'll never know...) and taping 5/32nd drill bits with electrical tape so you don't go in too far.
Reply
post #13 of 41
3/1/06 at 1:21pm
goldsbar - you're right and I agree, but what it comes down to is the binding manufacturers protecting themselves from liability. From a legal standpoint I'm not so sure of what they have to fear if people choose to accept the risks and mount their own bindings, but they do everything they can to keep the technical mounting procedures and tools behind closed doors.

I do happen to have all of the Tyrolia, Look , Rossi, and Salomon mounting guides and I have Tyrolia and Look mounting jigs along with the proper drill bits. I will say that I have screwed up a few pairs of screws over the years, but I'm still much more satisfied with doing my own mounts than taking them to a shop - so I know where you're coming from.
Reply
post #14 of 41
1/27/11 at 7:02pm

Thread ressurection.  I just purchased new boots which are 12mm shorter than my prior boots.  I see no way of adjusting the toe piece without remounting (please correct if wrong).  The rear can be easily adjusted via lifting a metal tab and sliding it.  The adjustment is somewhat coarse compared to what I call easy mount bindings (Neox, etc).  Simple math will tell you the boot is now several mm in front of the centerline.  I haven't tried them yet.  Is this generally considered too much or is it within a preference range.  Is the only way back to mid a remounting?

 

Also, there's no simple indication of whether or not the rear is set correct.  One tab seems maybe a bit close and the other a bit far.  For example, with the Neox I know the rear screw has to be flush, Dynastar has a yellow bar that needs to be in the middle.  No such indication (?) with these bindings.  Thanks.

Reply
post #15 of 41
1/28/11 at 5:09am

For Tyrolia it's rear of the housing within the region of scribed lines on the tab.

 

What skis are the bindings on?

Reply
post #16 of 41
1/28/11 at 6:41am

Same thing happened to me this year, it was a heck of a time to remount.  Yes you do need to do a full re-drill because it seems like your foot has grown quite a bit.   I have mine on Head SL's with a Head race plate so it may be different.  Turned out if I re mounted it correctly, it just wouldn't work out (long story) so I actually had to turn the plates around to get an undrilled section.  Then I just did as said above, and put the binding back.

 

***WARING: don't be an idiot, go and have this done at a shop for like $20.  If you mess up re-drilling the race plate back into the ski, you will ruin your ski***

Quote:
Originally Posted by goldsbar View Post

Thread ressurection.  I just purchased new boots which are 12mm shorter than my prior boots.  I see no way of adjusting the toe piece without remounting (please correct if wrong).  The rear can be easily adjusted via lifting a metal tab and sliding it.  The adjustment is somewhat coarse compared to what I call easy mount bindings (Neox, etc).  Simple math will tell you the boot is now several mm in front of the centerline.  I haven't tried them yet.  Is this generally considered too much or is it within a preference range.  Is the only way back to mid a remounting?

Reply
post #17 of 41
1/28/11 at 10:34am

See if you can move the rear up far enough for the boot to fit.  If it does fit and the forward pressure is ok (rear edge of binding within the scribed area of the metal tab) you can just ski them and see how they feel.  Moving the boot forward ~1cm may make your skis feel a bit different, but you may well like how they feel and not need to do a remount.

 

If they don't fit then the only option is to do a remount.

 

Mike

Reply
post #18 of 41
1/28/11 at 11:02am

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeC View Post

See if you can move the rear up far enough for the boot to fit

No, being that much forward on a race ski will not be good.

 

Reply
post #19 of 41
1/28/11 at 1:57pm

How do you know being that far forward will not be good for him?  1cm is not very far and is surely within the range that different people mount their "race skis".
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceDude View Post

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeC View Post

See if you can move the rear up far enough for the boot to fit

No, being that much forward on a race ski will not be good.

 

Reply
post #20 of 41
1/28/11 at 8:55pm

I've never seen anyone race on anything more than 5ish mm's behind midpoint, let alone in front of it.  The ski is designed to flex at a certain point, and even the slightest adjustment on that can really mess the ski up.  Given that he's ski on non-race stock it wouldn't make as much of a difference, but is still def worth the $20 of getting it re-drilled at the right spot by a professional.  
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeC View Post

How do you know being that far forward will not be good for him?  1cm is not very far and is surely within the range that different people mount their "race skis".
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceDude View Post

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeC View Post

See if you can move the rear up far enough for the boot to fit

No, being that much forward on a race ski will not be good.

 


 
Reply
post #21 of 41
1/29/11 at 1:29pm

Thanks for the input.  I'll probably get them redrilled.  They'll only have to redrill the front piece as there's plenty of room for movement back and forth in the rear.  They're Fischer SCs from the 04/05 season.  I bought them in 06 new.  Still in very good shape as they see action only 5-10 times/year on piste only including bumps.  Unfortunately, they weren't with me when I bought the new boots (which were smaller, not larger).  Regardless, still trying to figure out how you know when the forward presure is correct on these bindings.

Reply
post #22 of 41
1/29/11 at 3:57pm

Read this. Maybe it will help.

 

http://www.tyrolia.com/fileadmin/pdfs/Techn.Manual_EN.pdf

Reply
post #23 of 41
1/29/11 at 6:16pm

I really hate the "tab with lines" forward pressure adjustment. The Neox method of forward pressure adjustment  (screw with 1 mm adjustment per click) is a lot more precise and less of a pain in my opinion.

Reply
post #24 of 41
1/30/11 at 8:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceDude View Post

I've never seen anyone race on anything more than 5ish mm's behind midpoint, let alone in front of it.  The ski is designed to flex at a certain point, and even the slightest adjustment on that can really mess the ski up. 


Sorry, but this nonsense.  Please spend some time educating yourself here on Epic regarding binding mount position.

Reply
post #25 of 41
1/30/11 at 11:05pm
Reply
post #26 of 41
1/30/11 at 11:06pm

IMO, this would not be the place to educate oneself on binding mount position. nor would the other place. that is the "I know more than the guy who made the ski" mentality. make any sense at all? not very much.

Reply
post #27 of 41
1/31/11 at 4:54am

Noodler and others are so right! Do not learn how to set a ski binding on this site,,,,or on any internet site!

 

It is more complicated than you think!

 

Your safety depends on correct procedure!

 

You need ; special bits that have correct size and bevel tops!

                  posidrive screwdrivers

                 tension/release testing methods

 

For your own sake listen to Noodler!

 

Respectfully,

Vist

Reply
post #28 of 41
1/31/11 at 5:07am
Quote:
Originally Posted by davluri View Post

IMO, this would not be the place to educate oneself on binding mount position. nor would the other place. that is the "I know more than the guy who made the ski" mentality. make any sense at all? not very much.


You need to take a seat in class right next to RaceDude.

Reply
post #29 of 41
1/31/11 at 6:06am

It's well known that many skis come with marks that would put your ball-of-foot aft of the center of running surface. I guess all those bindings with built-in adjustments must be ruining the designer's original intentions.

Reply
post #30 of 41
1/31/11 at 10:03am

Goldbar

 

Way back to original post.  The plastic "rectagular" thing with the tabs you place the tabs in the range which most closely fits your boot sole size (on side of heel of boot).  This plastic piece will slide under the spring part of the heel binding.  For your new boots you may want to move it forward a notch if they are much smaller.

 

I believe on those older bindings there was also a metal strip that connected the heel to the toe to the heel and had two round metal tabs sticking up at the front tof the strip.  These two tabs correspond to holes in the plastic piece under the toe binding.  Boot sole sizes for each of these holes should be marked.  I think these are in cm so for a 317 mm boot you could select 31 or 32.

 

When remounting for a slightly smaller boot I would suggest you move only the toe or the heel binding.  Also since you can select the next cm larger or smaller than your boot sole (using the strip I mentioned above) you have to decide if you want the larger or smaller of this range so that the new holes are not too close to the old mounting holes.

 

For forward pressure once the bindings are installed on the ski you lift the metal tab on the heel and slide the heel place to what appears to be correct positin and then push the tab back down in locked position.  try the boot.  If it is adjusted correctly the end of thebindig will fall withing the hash marks on this metal tab.  If it does not then lift the tab and move the binding either forweard or back one notch and try again.

 

The drill is 4.7mm but the Tyrollia drill bits are preferred since they will penetrate the proper distance into the plate or ski.

 

It is pretty simple to do yourself but you could make a mistake.  A mistake could ruin your ski or worse your knees or other.  I would recommend you take it to the shop where you bought teh boots and have them do it.  You should be able to get a good price on the remount since you bought the boots at that shop.

 

Good Luck

 

Mike

Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Ski Gear Discussion
EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Ski Gear Discussion › Tyrolia Free Flex mount