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Board edge bevels

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
Sharpened my grandsons snowboard edges yesterday and was wondering what the edge/base bevels should be on a Burton board. The tools I have are a 3 degree side bevel which I used on the snowboard, I didn't change the base bevel, just cleaned it up. While putting a 3 degree side bevel on the board it actually looked like I was taking some bevel out. Anyone know what the base/side bevel on snowboards should be?
post #2 of 18
yeah- 90 o, 0 bevel.
anyone who bevels snowboard edges is creating a situation where they need to put it higher on edge in order to effect edging.
this creates an energy-sapping attitude of extranneous angulation and lean angle.
just keep it unbevelled.
post #3 of 18

Edge it up

I was told my boards (Volkl) come from the factory 1 deg base and 2 deg side. I rode one board at 2 base and 2 side last year (freestyle and rail board - more edge/rail clearance) and the other (all mountain) at 1 base and 1 side. I just wanted to try something different. Both boards rode fine and did their specific job (somewhat to my suprise as I thought I would need the heavy side bevel to really edge effectively on steeps with high edge angles).

I've ridden boards in the past with 1 base and 3 deg side. I wanted the more aggressive bevel because I was carving at really high edge angles on steep terrain more often and a rider I saw carve some turns down a slope I thought was impossible to carve down ran his board that way. If you want to see some really extreme bevels check out a GS or SL race set up (can be 3 or more deg of side).

There's nothing "bad" about the high edge bevel, but it just requires more upkeep than the 1 and 1 or 2 and 2. I liked riding with it but eventually got tired of all the tuning. I have not touched my boards this year and assume that they are still at the factory 1 base, 2 side.
The only thing that your grandson might notice is his board is "grabby" if he rides in the bumps (he might want to be careful on rails also). Hope this helps.
post #4 of 18
Thread Starter 
Vlad, not sure I follow your reasoning on side bevel, how does a side bevel require putting the board more on edge? Base bevel for sure would require higher edge angles. This board had never had the edges done and it looked like it had an even higher side bevel (4-5) than the 3 degrees I put on it.
post #5 of 18
jibster- i think you may have the 'grabby' thing backward. mor ebevel make sthe board less grabby.
as to those GS and SG boards....i raced 'em with 0 bevel, myself. those steep lean angles are a reaction to reaching for that edge, not the other way around.
the guy you saw was a good rider regardless of his bevel.
frankly, i ride any board, any bevel pretty much the same, although i am aware that by having to roll it over farthe rin order to engage that edge, it's costing me flat-running (read that as fast) time, and causing me to waste movement on getting on a higher (and therefore slower) edge.
a balanced rider will effect a snappy edge transistion better with a flat, unbevelled board.
on snowboards, unlike skis, we're at the mercy of ONE edge per turn, and the faster we can commit to that edge, and the flatter board we can sustain getting to it, the better our riding.
post #6 of 18
Thread Starter 
Jibster, thanks for your input. Your points makes sense. Hadn't thought about them riding in the park, a little base bevel would probably be best. More skidding than carving.
post #7 of 18
Thread Starter 
I got curious so I went to the garage and put a tru-bar on the base edge. Looking at it, it came from the factory with some base bevel. It's difficult to tell exactly how much, but my educated guess would be about 1 degree.
post #8 of 18

Livin on the Edge

as to those GS and SG boards....i raced 'em with 0 bevel, myself. those steep lean angles are a reaction to reaching for that edge, not the other way around.
the guy you saw was a good rider regardless of his bevel.

The guy I saw was our clinic leader at Vail (and a good rider) from several years back who actually made a specific comment concerning his edge bevel and how that helped him do what he did on that terrain.

The set-up info that was shared by the clinician was also supported by info from a tuning clinic. When researched, the US Team had some interesting side bevel angles on their skis. Although this isn't the info I wanted to use the last paragraph's comments on side bevel for racing might interest you: http://www.edgewiseskitunes.com/arti...ml?ref=11&sp=4.

The base bevel stuff was specifically for rails and jibbing. I don't want any sharp edges close to the rail when I'm on it so hence the 2 degree base bevel. Right now I have a freestyle specific board with recessed edges, so I don't need to do any filing. The effective base bevel is around 7 deg. or more. This is due to the shape of the base and I can keep my edges nice and sharp for riding without worrying about the rail contact.
The increase in base bevel or effective base bevel makes these boards a bit sloppy (read not grabby) but that's great for bumps and skidding/flatboard exercises. I can still tilt it up high enough to get it on edge for carving though. So the grabby comment was from experience in moguls with the extreme side bevel not on account of any base bevel.
post #9 of 18
kinda like the orignal sims 'skidwell', which was a convex-based sled....
the opinions of
everyone vary, based upon preference...or actual skill....
post #10 of 18
Generally for all mountain riding a 1 degree base bevel with a 1 degree side bevel is the perfect balance between board performance and "forgiveness".

Jibster's point about park bevels is a good one. On my park board, I used to ride 2 degrees in front and in back of the bindings and 3 degrees between them. This makes a very forgiving board on rails. The board also performs well outside the park and carves hard on steeps and blues alike. The only problem I've found with it is when you need to make quick adjustments with your ankles in tight spaces in the park - the edges aren't there to engage with the board at a low angle. This makes setting up for rails a little more tricky. For this reason, I now run 1 degree for rails. I personally feel that my approach to the rail is the most important part of my rail riding. If I have a good approach, I will have a better ride and won't have to worry about catching an edge as much. That being said, like Jibster, a lot of people prefer having the 2 or 3 degree for rails. Those people tend to be the ones who are more naturally balanced on rails and don't have to be as worried about the approach (read - better athletes than me).

Both the Burton LTR's and the Rossi Throttle series of boards have 2.5 degree base bevels to make learning easier and more forgiving. These boards are used by 100's of rental shops and snowboard schools around the country and beyond. I have ridden them and can honestly say that they are as easy as it gets for turning. They can also be ridden more aggressively if need be - which, to me, was suprising.

After all of this, I will say - take my advice with a grain of salt. To get accurate, expert advice, Tognar has a great guide on their website:

post #11 of 18

On the Edge


Nice link. Lots of quality info there. I especially like the side bevel info where they use the term "grabby".

I ran across this link this morning:


Has a few blurbs about edge bevel and also decent wax info.

I was really looking for specific info concerning boardercross set up. I know how to set my board up for max speed and precision, but was curious as to what former champs and pro's are doing with their set-ups. Any one know where to find that kind of info? I found info on the Santa Cruz team and that's it.
post #12 of 18
philsthrills' advice is going to be far more pertinent than my own, as i don't ride softboots or ride features much in parks...i'm strictly alpine.
that being said, let philsthrills' signature be the final authority on the matter
post #13 of 18
the guy who sold us my kids' boards recommended 0,0 edge angles.

I asked Mike/skidoc what he recommended for boards, and he said to go with the same 0.5-1 base and 3 side edge angles that he recommends (and I use) for skis. Mike has never steered me wrong before, so my inclination would be to go with his recommendation.
post #14 of 18
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys for your input. Lots of good thoughts on beveling the edges on snowboards. looks like there is some art mixed with the science. Thanks again. Scottys
post #15 of 18

okay no offense but your making this way to complicated for yourselves heres what you gotta keep in mind keep your edge bevels even none of the 1-2 1-3 or whatever else it actually makes your edges duller and less grabby you want 90 degrees between your edge and base so keep it even no matter what your doing trust me. The other thing to look at is this are you riding this board in park (jumps, rails and pipe are usually very close in the bevel you use) or in places where you want to turn quick and hard on to your edges racing, just around the mountain or on advanced terrain backcountry etc.. if you are riding for park than a higher bevel is better you wont grab your board that much i recomend a 2-2 or 3-3 depending on how serious of a park rider you are and what you want then if you are racing i reccomend a 2-2 it gives you more room to turn and carve bigger arcs without yotur edge grabbing which you need when you race or if your just cruising and messing around all over the mountain start with a 1-1 it makes your board nice and grabby and you can really grab on ice and all sorts of stuff but let the rider start tuning their own board and getting a feel for what they want they may want bigger or smaller arcs or grabbier or duller edges its all preference no rider thats serious takes their board home right from the company and rides the edges as they are they ardchange the bevel to what they want so mess around and experiment a bit there is no perfect formula for all of this its all preference anybody trying to tell you that you MUST do it this way proboably doesnt know too much about what they are talking about and just reads alot of crap from companies who brag about their bevels that come on their shop boards because they know some people have no idea what they are talking about and it might sell a board

post #16 of 18
post #17 of 18

NSummer told me 0/0 on their boards.


post #18 of 18

An extensive discussion on edge tuning with bevels is in this link:




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