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BAse Bevel Tools

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
I know from reading on here that most experienced tuners do not like the all in 1 universal tuning stuff. But the pro versions of the base bevel guides are pretty expensive. As the base bevel is not changed too many times, what would work for a .5 guide that is not overly expensive?

Some say the Beast is good- others say the entry model is plastic and you have no way to hold the file, diamond or stone
other than your grip and fingers and the plastic gives.

Others may like the Swix or Ski Man (some of them are adjustable others are fixed), others the lower end ones like the FK SKS MT3136 or similar from others?

I want to be able to use more than just files, stones and diamond too (I picked up some diamonds that are much wider than the DMT you see out there so the ones designed for 6 or 8 inch files would not work with those at all.

Opinions?
post #2 of 24
I like the Toko one, but it is pretty expensive.
post #3 of 24
never used it, but I've heard good things about the SVST Final Cut. it's definitely pricey, though (scroll down): http://www.proformskiing.com/prod_to...l.php?menu=901
post #4 of 24
As you said, you don't mess with the base bevel much,
after the original set. I have the beastbrand and SVST.
Both work. Yes, you have to hold your cutting tool(file, stone)
Not hard.
post #5 of 24
Although you don't mess with your base bevel much after the initial set, it is very important when doing the initial set that it is accurate and consistent.

The price of a tool should not be judged by how often you use it, but how well it does the job at hand and it's durability.
post #6 of 24
atomicman is right.
But if you don't jump on, throw or smash your tools.... in this case
the Beast line works fine.
A bit off (here is a rant) Folks diss plastic items. Well let's throw out
all those plastics. Our computers, our skis....
post #7 of 24
Johnj my only concern is that in the hands of an inexperienced tuner the plastic base of beast (I have a few laying around but don't use them) flexes a lot and it is very easy to overbevel with the beast base beveler.

The newer version of base of beast (still a few years back now) does have a tab below that connects the arms that makes it much easy to hold a file.

as i have stated before i use the TOKO base beveler because it is aluminum and spans the entire width of the base. It won't hold diamond stones but I don't diamons stone my base edges.

i was not dissing plastic. Just worried about the flex of the tool in less skilled (read too much torque and pressure) hands!
post #8 of 24
When side edge filling do you have the base of the ski facing you or away from you? I have always done it with the base facing me. It's much easier to keep the file guide pressed against the base which gives you a much truer angle. I have watched other Techs do it away from them. Maybe it doesn't matter but I have noticed that I get 4 to 5 inch filling hairs when I do it that way.
post #9 of 24
Mount the ski base away. Get your body on top of it and pull the file straight back towards you. If you do it right, you get better control and more even pressure distribution through the pulling stroke.

-T
post #10 of 24
I use a SVST Final Cut for bevel filing of the base edge. Primarily for when base wear is beginning to result in railing of the edge. My issue with those plastic tools is that not only are they flexible, they have very short bits of files/stones to fit in them. And you can only use whatever they make for a file/stone. The SVST tool can be used with most any type of cutting tool.
post #11 of 24
Thanks REAL9999, I'll try it that way. In the past I have found that when I do it with the base away from me I don't get a square edge. I always use a permanent marker to know when I have reached the correct angle. I only file to reach the edge angle I want & then only diamond stone to touch up. It's probably that I have been doing this for years that I'm more comfortable with it. Always open to new input.
post #12 of 24
Always away from you. If it is not working you are doing somehting wrong.
post #13 of 24
Hi Everyone, I would like to start to do my own tuning. Can you recommend what tools I should buy. I only want to buy them once so I'm looking for something that will last. Thanks

Peter
post #14 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbertoewrn
Hi Everyone, I would like to start to do my own tuning. Can you recommend what tools I should buy. I only want to buy them once so I'm looking for something that will last. Thanks

Peter
There are numerous threads on tuning equipment recommendations. do a search adn you will find all the info you could possibly want & more!
post #15 of 24
I have both the best 1 degree and the SVST .7 and 1 degree. I dont see a difference at all in the two bevellers, Ive been tuning my skis for about 3 years and ive gone to race tuning clinics, so I know a lot about tuning. I actually think if i had to do it again id just buy the beast product because its much cheaper, and it does the same quality job.
post #16 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman
Always away from you. If it is not working you are doing somehting wrong.
Don't fully agree here, so long as the file is moving towards the tang (I believe its called) it should be cutting and people will have preferances as to which direction they go, personally, I pull the file towards me, pushing away tends to make the file pressure unevenly (and my shoulder is torn which also affects my ability to push the file away effectively). Furthermore, while the mantra "tip-to-tail" is generally right, if you are using proper diamonds and ceramics to remove the burrs, there really isn't any need to be overly picky as to which direction to get the file to cut (afterall most people asking for help on here are not going to be World Cup tuners, just trying to make their equiptment work more effectively).
post #17 of 24
JM3K3, have you ever measured your base bevel after using these tools?
post #18 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman
.... I don't diamons stone my base edges.
Is there any reason why you don't. I diamond stone all my edges, because I don't know any better.
post #19 of 24
I service racers through my business, but I am a casual skier and I do all edges myself. For my level, the accuracy is not critical.

.
post #20 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manus
Don't fully agree here, so long as the file is moving towards the tang (I believe its called) it should be cutting and people will have preferances as to which direction they go, personally, I pull the file towards me, pushing away tends to make the file pressure unevenly (and my shoulder is torn which also affects my ability to push the file away effectively). Furthermore, while the mantra "tip-to-tail" is generally right, if you are using proper diamonds and ceramics to remove the burrs, there really isn't any need to be overly picky as to which direction to get the file to cut (afterall most people asking for help on here are not going to be World Cup tuners, just trying to make their equiptment work more effectively).
You completely misunderstood my post! the base always away from you

You never work on your side edge woth the base facing you! And you always pull the file towards you!
post #21 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manus
Don't fully agree here, so long as the file is moving towards the tang (I believe its called) it should be cutting
I think you have it backwards. Files cut from the tip to tang so the tang should be facing the opposite direction of the way the file is moving.
post #22 of 24
Halfway down this link's page are some pictures if that helps.

http://www.racewax.com/tuneedge.html

.
post #23 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manus
Don't fully agree here, so long as the file is moving towards the tang (I believe its called) it should be cutting and people will have preferances as to which direction they go, personally, I pull the file towards me, pushing away tends to make the file pressure unevenly (and my shoulder is torn which also affects my ability to push the file away effectively). Furthermore, while the mantra "tip-to-tail" is generally right, if you are using proper diamonds and ceramics to remove the burrs, there really isn't any need to be overly picky as to which direction to get the file to cut (afterall most people asking for help on here are not going to be World Cup tuners, just trying to make their equiptment work more effectively).
Also file should be moving away from tang. in other words doing your side edge with tip to your left and base facing away from you tang should be towards tip end of ski.
post #24 of 24
Quote:
Halfway down this link's page are some pictures if that helps.

http://www.racewax.com/tuneedge.html
I like those gloves! Is that the famous Toko #5 file in the pictures? Do you have that file in stock?

Thank you - Fossil
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