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How to wax...

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
Im really getting into this sport and just bought a pair of really nice boards. I want to keep them in good condition all year, so I bought a edge file and had a friend show me how to sharpen. Now, I just need to know how you wax the skis. I know theres a link on tognar.com that gives like a 20 page description of what to do. I really dont have the time to read all that, so Im wondering if you guys can give this newbie some advice on the "proper" way to wax skis. Thanks fellas, also I would appreciate any reccomendations on a good wax.
post #2 of 15
Hold your bar of wax to a hot iron and drip it onto the ski. Then use the iron to spread the wax over the entire base. Make sure the iron isn't smoking, and make sure you don't hold the iron on one spot on the base for too long when spreading the wax.
post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
That won't mess up the base? Putting an iron to the base of a ski seems kinda dangerous... but if thats how its done, i cant argue.
post #4 of 15
Originally posted by CafeDelMar81:
That won't mess up the base? Putting an iron to the base of a ski seems kinda dangerous... but if thats how its done, i cant argue.
I think you should read the tognar waxing pages.
post #5 of 15
Try to avoid putting the iron against the base material. If you drip the wax on first and then use the iron to melt and spread it you should always have a layer of wax between the iron and the base. After the wax is spread and cooled there will be a layer of wax to be scraped off. The brush is then used after scraping (plastic scraper) to brush away excess wax. Ideally this is repeated a number of times. The idea is to saturate the base material and leave a very very thin coating of wax. This uses up quite a lot of wax, much of which ends up on the floor. The wax mfrs put out manuals on waxing. You should read one and, if possible, get a knowledgeable person to show you how. Yes you can damage your skis if waxing is done improperly.

[ January 14, 2003, 08:35 PM: Message edited by: arcadie ]
post #6 of 15
It depends on how anal (or safe) you want to be about it. The trick is to get the wax and ski base hot enough for the wax to really penetrate into the base without messing up the base structure or melting the P-tex base. :

Different waxes require different heating temps for optimal penetration into the ski base. Home irons can fluctuate quite a bit in temp. at each setting which makes them not the best choice as a waxing tool. According to Swix, an actual iron temp of 280F will give an approx. ironing temp of 230F which is in the safe range for most waxing (assuming that you keep the iron moving along the base as you must do). You can buy a thermometer and use a home iron or use the "a little smoke is okay, a lot isn't" approach or invest in a ski iron that will have settings for each wax type and fluctuate less in temps.
If you do a search here you can find a lot of "how to" tips or get a waxing manual as some have suggested.

[ January 15, 2003, 07:44 AM: Message edited by: Lostboy ]
post #7 of 15
Aren't there a few threads in this regard here? A use of the search tool should answer all 'How to' questions regarding waxing, as well as 'How often'.
post #8 of 15
If you don't have time to read a few pages, then you don't have time to wax your boards. Bring them to a shop and let them charge you for running them over a roller or buy a can of spray on.
post #9 of 15
Although I normally can't help but dish out poor advice, especially with tuning, I'm with John on this one.

Read the manual and all will be revealed.
post #10 of 15
I'm not overly technical, but I believe the correct response is RTFM.

post #11 of 15
I will agree, that there is substanial info out there to reference.

But allow me to suggest an alternative- Don't hold your wax against the iron and drip. You will waste much expensive wax, and mke a bigger mess when it comes time to scrape.

Instead- gently rub the wax against the iron quickly, then immediately rub the wax on the ski. With a little practice, you will determine how long it takes to warm(not melt) the wax.
Once you have a reasonable rubbed coating of wax on the ski, now go ahead and iron it. But as previously mentioned- don't go overboard with the heat! NO SMOKE!!! Use the coolest setting possible, but still melts the wax to a liquid, even if for a brief moment.

Iron the wax smoothly, never letting the iron sit still. (Imagine your shirts) Once it is smooth and cooled- GENTLY scrape with a plastic scraper. (scraper doesn't have to be razor sharp)to remove the majority. Leave some on the ski!

By the way- do NOT try to reuse the scrapings... That wax will be contaminated, as waxing/ scraping helps clean impurities from the base.

Good luck!

post #12 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thanks fellas for all the advice. For all those haters out there, I might just go on and see what that 20 page thesis on waxing has to say. Anyways, Im going skiing this weekend and gettin funny through the night... life is good
post #13 of 15
Why is everybody so big on scraping? I just ski the excess off, as long as there isn't too much. But then again, I'm on manmade snow. And wouldn't you know it! Just when I buy a $10 bar of Toko High Temp, the highs dip into the 20'S!!! Oh well, I'm gettin' some poles this Fri, I'll pick up a bar of manmade snow wax.
post #14 of 15
Let's see; you are too lazy to read about waxing but there are "haters"? Don't get so funny through the night that you choke on gazpacho!
post #15 of 15
(A) Bring the skis to a ski shop.

(B) Tell them you wanrt the skis waxed.

(C) Give them the skis.

(D) Get the skis back after they have been waxed by the shop.

(E) Pay them - they like that.

(F) Ski
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