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Mounting position on P60 SL race stock/ Marker Piston plate

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Hi,

Does anyone know in which hole the toe of my binding should be mounted on my 2005 Volkl P60 SL race stocks, size 165, with the Marker Piston plate? My boot size is 304 mm. Where does the company say it should be, and in which hole have people had the most success?

Cheers,

Daniel
post #2 of 17
are you asking what is the best position for the toe piece? if yes, i can tell you that i have it in the center position. It works best for me and i can tell you that i saw many (most) racers using this position. I also used it in the rear position and it worked well and also in the front position which increased initiation but did not work well with traditional technique.

Jamie
post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sywsyw
are you asking what is the best position for the toe piece? if yes, i can tell you that i have it in the center position. It works best for me and i can tell you that i saw many (most) racers using this position. I also used it in the rear position and it worked well and also in the front position which increased initiation but did not work well with traditional technique.

Jamie
Thanks for the quick reply! What's your sole length? What differences did you feel between the rearward and center positions?
post #4 of 17
sole length is 294mm
The sole length is not important b/c you can adjust the heel piece. Mount it and turn the lower screw on the heel piece with a screwdriver. You will hear a "click" each time you turn it.

The rear position was not bad, but the center position was a lot better. The difference was subtle (IMO) but perceptible. The difference between the front and rear position was clearly visible. I could carve short turns in the rear position, but i feel that i am better balanced in the center position.
You have to try all three positions and see what works for you. It would be a mistake not to try one of them b/c i (or anyone else) said that the front did not work for me. For you it might be the best setup.
post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 
Alright I'll give them all a go!

Have you experimented at all with the "gas pedal" they're talking about in the instruction forum? Ahhh! Too many variables!
post #6 of 17
I put a 2mm lifter under the toe of my binding. As you know, the front of the plate is higher than the rear. This is better IMO. I believe the height in the front is 16mm while in the rear is 14mm. If i remember correctly, the heel of my Comp 14.0 EPS is 5mm higher than the toe. Some people call this delta, but it is only expressed in mm's and it is the angle that is important. If your binding is the Comp 14.0 EPS, the heel should be only 3mm higher than the toe. I put a 2mm lifter under the toe and it is now 1mm lower than the heel. I decided not to put a lifter under the toe of the boot. These mods should have the same effect. My boots have aprox. 3.4 degrees of ramp (if i measured correctly). They are now much more uprigh than they used to be (i have modified them) and the end result is that the whole setup makes me stand more upright than before. More internal ramp and less FWD lean=less ankle flexion.

I recommend you play with the lifters as well. Try and see what works for you.

If you put two 2mm lifters under the toe and use the Comp 14.0 EPS then the toe should be 1mm higher than the heel.
post #7 of 17
When your binding is properly installed on the plate, the bootsole center mark should line up with the mark on the sidewall of the ski. I really wouldn't recommend moving it either direction from that mark. The midsole marks on the skis aren't just arbitrarily chosen, they are there because that is what works best. This is especially true on race stock skis. Alot of testing goes into it.
So the answer is, use the holes that will line up the center of the boot with the mark on the ski.

As for lift, most racers I've seen are using 2 of the included shims under the toepiece and one under the heel on this years race tigers. Most of them are on Diablo's as well, so that may vary depending on what boot you have.

I hope that helps.
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by U.P. Racer
When your binding is properly installed on the plate, the bootsole center mark should line up with the mark on the sidewall of the ski. I really wouldn't recommend moving it either direction from that mark. The midsole marks on the skis aren't just arbitrarily chosen, they are there because that is what works best. This is especially true on race stock skis. Alot of testing goes into it.
So the answer is, use the holes that will line up the center of the boot with the mark on the ski.

As for lift, most racers I've seen are using 2 of the included shims under the toepiece and one under the heel on this years race tigers. Most of them are on Diablo's as well, so that may vary depending on what boot you have.

I hope that helps.
Thanks, that does indeed! Can I also ask what lifter combinations youve seen on the GS?
post #9 of 17
The same for both. That may vary, depending on what you are trying to accomplish, but it seems to be a good starting point for most people. Most bindings have a slightly higher heel than toe, Marker included. The current trend seems to be toward a flatter ramp angle.... thus the extra shim under the toe piece. If you put the boot in and measure, it is still maybe a mm or 2 higher in the heel, but it's pretty flat.
post #10 of 17
Thread Starter 
I've raised the toe by 2 mm. Both the heel and toe seem to be at about 46 mm. I'm going skiing tomorrow night and I'll be back with feedback...

Does Marker make something to get you closer to FIS height, or do people just stack a crapload of those 2 mm shims?
post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 
So I tried the skis out tonight with the 2 mm shim under the toe. The power felt much more direct when pressuring the fronts of my boots. I'm quite satisfied with the outcome of this trial and I don't think I'll be adding more shims under the toe. Any more would likely feel unnatural and put me too upright.

The bad part of all this is that my skis are now finished. I got backseat in a rut and flew out on my tails with, with my body parallel to the ground in the air...must have been quite a sight...So one of my tails is now bent up about 2.5"...

Does anyone have a decently priced pair of 165 slalom skis for sale?
post #12 of 17
uhh, warranty?
post #13 of 17
Gotta love those stiff tails (and the fact that there is metal to bend inside). Warranty might be an option. It's definitely worth trying.

YA
post #14 of 17
My wife just bent her GS's BAD last night in a crash. There is a lot of metal in those skis, which gives them great edgehold and energy..... but if they bend too far, they're toast.
Hopefully they will warranty them.
post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by U.P. Racer
My wife just bent her GS's BAD last night in a crash. There is a lot of metal in those skis, which gives them great edgehold and energy..... but if they bend too far, they're toast.
Hopefully they will warranty them.
They're over a year old...I'll have to get lucky...and it's not really a defect, so I don't expect much...
post #16 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
The bad part of all this is that my skis are now finished. I got backseat in a rut and flew out on my tails with, with my body parallel to the ground in the air...must have been quite a sight...So one of my tails is now bent up about 2.5"...

Does anyone have a decently priced pair of 165 slalom skis for sale?
That happened to me two or three years ago. But i did not bend them. My ski is the P50 SL WC.
post #17 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by D(C)
They're over a year old...I'll have to get lucky...and it's not really a defect, so I don't expect much...
Have your shop call Volkl warranty dept. Alot of times they have a single laying around that they can hook you up with for cheap.
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