or Connect
EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › About detuning the tips & tails
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

About detuning the tips & tails - Page 3

post #61 of 63
Atomicman makes a good point about base bevel tools and concave tips and tails. Also, when I think about it, there are some skiing situations where you might want to detune to enable easier skidding. I know that extreme skiers do detune at the tips to allow for the easy application of rotary forces in chutes and simular situations. I can understand why at downhill racing speeds, racers may want detune the tips somewhat. However, for today's shorter carving skis in typical frontside snow conditions, detuning limits the effective edge and performance capability of these skis. I suspect a lot of shops still detune the tips and tails because they beleive that most of their customers are still skidding their turns even with modern carving skis. Although they may be right, they are really doing their customers no service, IMHO.
post #62 of 63
Originally Posted by Atomicman
I use no diamond stones after as recommended by the Holmenkol natrional Race Rep.
What was his reasoning? loss of sharpness sacrificed for smoothness?

Originally Posted by Atomicman
I also use the shorter files if available, particularly for side edge work. Longer files cause "laddering" of the edge due to the curve of the skis sidecut, but for base beveling too. it is much more dificukllt to bend a short file which would cause uneven & over beveling.
How short are you talking here?

post #63 of 63

How the racers ski...

....and tune. We got off into bevels, so I'll do that one first. This is just another data point, and although it's pretty close to what the ski techs recommend, it's just what I've evolved to:

212 Atomic DH, 2 degrees base, 4 degrees side
204 Atomic Super G, 1 degree base, 2 degrees side
195 Atomic Super G, 1 degree base, 3 degrees side
185 Head I.GS R. D., 1/2 degree base, 3 side
180 Atomic GS 12, 1/2 degree base, 3 side
161 Fischer W. C. SL, 1/2 degree base, 4 side
Everything else (powder, all mountain, etc.), 1 base, 3 side

I've been using the SKS tools for beveling sides, think they're the best. If you want to see the whole description of how I tune, go to Rocky Mountain Masters:


SnowNews and Articles page, go down past all the SnowNews issues, see
Ski Tuning for Dummies - Redux

I detune about the last 2 inches of the tail, and from the contact point in front up through the tip...very lightly with a fine diamond stone. Then I go ski. If these areas need more detuning, I do it on the hill. Slalom skis I prefer to be sharp all the way through the rest of the edge length. Sometimes if we get very dry, chalky snow that's kind of grabby, I'll detune SL skis. I usually start by running a fine diamond stone all the way down the outside edges at a 45 degree angle, and maybe about 2 inches back from the contact point on the inside...make another run through the wickets, see how that worked. Speed event skis I always do this much to before training, then adjust...that's the way Stenmark figured out what worked for him...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs
EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › About detuning the tips & tails