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I'm back with some issues....

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
I already did a search to find the answers to these questions. I found some of the information that I needed and I'm still confused about some other things. Here it goes.....

I should start off by saying that I only want to do quick tunes (keep my skis waxed and my edges sharp). I have no interest at this point in doing ptex repairs and stone grinding.

Is the only time that the base edges on my skis need to be sharpened and re-beveled is after a stone grind? I know that I need to go over my base edges (freehand with a stone?) after I tune the side edges just to get rid of any hanging burs. I am asking this because I purchased the SkiVision Ski Sharp and this tool does the side and base edge sharpening at the same time. I also purchased a 3 degree bevel guide, a file, and coarse and fine stones. If I don't need the SkiVision tool I am going to send it back.

Trust me when I say this, I have read a lot of posts before I decided to ask these questions. I am just looking for someone to clarify everything for me.
post #2 of 6
Send it back, any filing done after the base bevel has been set will only increase the base bevel. Just use a stone freehand for the base. You can still resharpen the side edge if you feel that the skis are not sharp enough. Using a base guide with a stone might be advantagous to remove the hook that will occur when side filing

The only exception to this that I have seen is when skiing on heavily preserved (glacier race course) snow over long periods of time, the base will sometimes shrink railing out the skis.
post #3 of 6
Send it back, but I would NEVER freehand my base bevel. If you screw it up, then you have to start over with a fresh base grind. If you use a tool that is set to the bevel you use on your base there is no possible way you can make a serious mistake that will cost you a $30+ base grind and edge grind to repair. I file my bases probably only two or three times a season, if that many. I do use a diamond stone on them from time to time if they have any issues - but I always keep it in the base guide...
post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys! That is what I was trying to figure out. Thanks again .
post #5 of 6
Send it back

I disagree about freehanding the base edge though.

It's pretty hard to screw up and increase your base bevel by gently running a medium grit diamond stone across your base edges to remove burrs and damage. I have an SVST base guide and rarely use it.

Most people here freehand an Arkansa stone after side filing to get rid of the hanging burr. It's a very similar process.
post #6 of 6
To each his own, but I definitely agree with Greg - don't freehand a base bevel with any tool - one slip and you've screwed up part of your edge. I even slip now and then with guides so I can't imagine how many times I might slip going freehand.

The SkiVisions Ski sharp isn't a great tool - I've found that it's just too inaccurate with its settings and it's highly dependent on how the inserts are installed. Go with dedicated (and non-adjustable) side and base bevel tools. The difference is night and day.

On the other hand, I love the SkiVisions base flattener and structure tool (once I learned how to maintain the steel bar and stones using diamond files to keep them square, true, and deburred).

I generally sharpen my edges using Moonflex stones and SVST guides. I usually go through to the 600 (or sometimes 1500) grit stone and they never leave any kind of burr doing it this way. Of course this is only done for maintenance after the base and side bevels have been set for the skis.
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