Thanks for the info!
Standard taps are usually pretty cheap (<$5), but the ski ones are pretty expensive through tognar, etc ($12). I tried to find info on the sizing of ski taps but couldnt really find anything conclusive. It might be a standard #12, but I would guess the threads-per-inch is far lower on ski screws than on standard machine screws. Some info I did find said tapping is mostly to make sure the screw goes in straight, so I figured I would just be careful.
I tried a pilot hole by putting a screw into one of the holes and taking it out to see if the plate bulged at the hole or other signs of deformation. The threads looked very clean so I just screwed the bindings on with a bit of grease in the holes. I'll keep an eye on them for a few days and if they loosen I'll switch to locktite.
Back in the day (early 80's), we used Elmer's wood glue for all skis, except for epoxy on the occasional PITA odd-ball like Hexcel or Molnar. The main purpose was to keep moisture out of the core. That's not an issue with plates, and with metal-to-metal contact, grease is the way to go. Thanks for that tip, waxman.
Not that FIS regulations matter to me, but I was curious. The heel-boot contact distance from base of ski, with lifter, was pretty much dead-on 55mm, the FIS limit. The toe is lower, around 47mm or so, I didn't pay quite as much attention once I saw it was clearly lower.
I adjusted forward pressue by moving the screw in flush with the top of the notch in the housing. I got very snappy toe return. If this is not correct, please let me know. Though I was Look certified for 7 years, it's been almost exactly 2 decades since I last adjusted a pair of Looks.
Surprising how little they've changed.