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Cant angle on plates

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
More content based stuff.....

Do you ride with your plates canted inward? I have Bomber plates with 3 deg cants toward center on both front and back. I noticed Booster's picture in the alignment thread looks like his front plate is flat (admittedly hard to tell from the angle of the photographer, but it raised the question in my head). I originally had that, but ended up way too far over the nose of the board. I have a general tendency to be too far forward from all the skiing I do. The only way I was able to get centered was to cant the front foot back. I should note that I use mid line Lange ski boots from a few years back, that have a walk setting, and I leave the front boot in walk mode so that it doesn't force my front knee too far forward. The back boot stays in normal "ski" mode.
post #2 of 10
Many different feelings on this, mostly based on comfort and performance. Personally, I run Cateks, with heel lift on the rear foot, and toe lift on the front. Both are slightly canted inwards. I probably have a bout 6 deg lift in the back, and 2-3 deg lift in the front...probably canted about 2 deg front, 3-4 deg back.

Which Bombers are you running? That will make a difference in your set up, as the TD1 can only be lifted and not canted.
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by SirMack
Which Bombers are you running? That will make a difference in your set up, as the TD1 can only be lifted and not canted.
I'm not sure which Bombers I have. They're probably 7 or 8 years old, 1st or 2nd generation. To cant them, I had to get replacement base plates, as the base plates are not adjustable.
post #4 of 10
sounds like the TD1...

for best results I would look into replacing those. The stiffness of the binding is Crazy, and the small base pattern has been blamed for board damage (by upper level riders) the Catek OS2 and the Bomber TD2 are both ecellent bindings, much more adaptable, and can be canted and lifted...

In ski boots you will have trouble with getting too far forward. so runnin g to e lift will help you stay centered. you might want to check the classifieds section on Bomber Online and look for sonme snowboard specific boots...
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Yes, it's a crazy stiff binding. And coupled with ski boots (even middle of the line recreational boots) means that if i fart in the wrong direction, the board reacts.

I probably won't go and look for new equipment for a while. Not until I start riding more. I ride it maybe once or twice a year, so throwing cash at a mild problem is not the best use of moeny right now.

The worst problem I had, was when one of the base plates cam unsrewed from the board while cranking turns on a fast groomer. The base plate screws are below the boot plate, so you have to remove the boot plate to tighten them. It was my front foot that came out. You can imagine my shock and horror as my front foot slipped out from under me, I hit the ground with my back foot still attached to the board and my front foot in the air with the binding attached!!! The words "spiral fracture" came to mind very quickly. Luckily, there were very few other people on the hill (early morning), so I did a safety slide until I stopped. I had a tool with me and repaired it on the hill. I have since added loc-tite, even if some people say it's bad for the board.
post #6 of 10

TD 1's

It's funny after this reading this thread, I'd realized that I'm riding on a pair of TD 1's as well. Talked with I believe who was Marc Colinger back in the day....The other interesting thing is that at one point I was playing around with the various degree cant base plate discs. Ran what ever it was with the stiffer, softer elastomer doo-dads...did'nt notice much difference. I actually felt to some degree it would me put back on the tail of the board at the finish of my turns sometimes. (looking at it now..may have been an issue with lengthing the front leg / keeping the rear knee flexed?)The boot set up at the time was a pair or Rossi stx I think.

Rode those for a bit only to find the were to soft. Next step which was probably not the smartest move...Rossi course KX boot. There was quite a bit of boot modification going on. After some cuff tweaking etc, they worked alright. Was never totally comfortable on the board. Just recently have been trying the Technica ion race boot, actually enjoy the boot quite a bit. Sorry...getting back to the current binding set up I run...still DT 1's both with the flat disc's, and what ever you'd consider to be the med. bumpers.

So from what I gather reading the previous post it might not be a bad idea to break down and buy a new pair? Just check the out on BOL..(sorry i did). Way more simplistic than the first generations TD's.

Jonah D.
post #7 of 10
More important than a new pair of bindings is a proper pair of boots. If you are using Ski boots, chances atre they are too stiff. Get a pair of Deeluxe boots, or heads. You will be amazed at the difference.

Like I said earlier, The TD1 do Not Cant. CANT is the the degree of tilt toward the waist of the board. LIFT is the mount that the Toe or heel is raised. Stack Height is the overall height of the assembled above the board. TD1 has 3 different options for toe and heel lift. They can run flat, three degrees of lift and 6 degrees of lift. When I wan TD1, i was at 3 degree toe lift on the front, 6 degree on the back, and ran a softer ski boot, the Rossi Freeride XX.
post #8 of 10
Originally Posted by SirMack
CANT is the the degree of tilt toward the waist of the board.
Yes, you use cant to articulate the binding laterally--but it's important to note that in addition to tilting toward the waist of the board, you can also tilt away from the waist of the board (aka outward cant). This works better for me on narrow waist width boards, where my hips are wider than the board and my legs feed down to the board at a different angle than they do when I ride wider boards with less steep stance angles.

It is my experience that cant/lift ratios change with different stance angles/widths. Obviously, each rider's particular anatomy factors into the equation as well. The key is to set up your bindings so the shaft of the boot cuff snugly cradles the shaft of the lower leg as it feeds down to the board--placing your lower leg in a 'neutral' position from which you make the movements to create board performance. If your boot pushes your leg into a position from which your range of motion is limited (like, for me, inward cant on a narrow board), you will likely suffer resulting limitations in your riding.

As you know, this topic has been thoroghly discussed, several times, on BOL. If you are new to ths topic and are looking for additional info on cant/lift, that is the first place I'd suggest looking.

Mi dos centavos.
post #9 of 10
of course...I didn't give a full definition of Cant...thanks for keeping me honest...and a most valid point.

Another thought...I don't know where you guys are located (Lowell - you don't need this) but JOhn Gilmour does a great clinic on Getting Dialed into your equipment. He doesn't just set you up, but teaches you about what he is doing as he goes...I am trying to get one going this saturday night at Bousquet (Pittsfield, Mass)...let me know if you would be interested and available...
post #10 of 10

Bomber Canting

I have some older style bomber trench diggers and some of the newer TD2's on various boards. I tend to use a 3 degree toe lift on the front and a 6 degree inthe back. The (TD2) front is canted toward the inside (toe side) very slightly but the back is canted inside a few degrees more. This helps my back knee drive the heelside edge over quite nicely. and it keeps my knees seperated.On the older trench diggers I keep the front lift canted neutral. I use some fender washers on the rear to cant the binding inward. The older bindings have 4 bolts holding them to the lift. I put 2 thin aluminum washers under the heel side bolt. 1 washer under the front and rear bolts. and no washers under the toe side bolt. this changes the cant agle slightly. I used them this way for many years this way with no damage to the binding. You do have to mess with the bumper sizes though.
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