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How smooth after a grind?

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
I've recently had my b5's stone grind & the resultant finish was noticably coarser than the original factory finish (& that on my missus' new K2's), with the grain parallel to the length of the ski. Having never seen a post grind ski before I put this down to the structure that had been added.

I did 5 hot wax/scrape cycles with Dominator Zoom Renew & one wax with Holmonkol Ultra v.low temp wax, letting the wax almost fully cool before scraping to remove the post grind fibres. I then waxed with Dominator Zoom Lime Universal wax ready for use.

The skis have worked fine this last week in Kitzbuhel apart from one day when the temp was -15/-17C when they were a bit sticky. Once it warmed up again to -6/-10C they went back to being nice & slippy again.

They now need to be rewaxed & I've noticed that the bases still aren't smooth, particularly down the centre third where they feel look & feel a little fuzzy. Under a 10x lens you can cleary see this 'fuzziness' which I presume is micro fibres etc.

Is this right?

If not, how smooth should they be after a grind & what's the best way to go about smoothing them up?
post #2 of 5
If by coarser you mean that the striations are quite a bit deeper, it sounds like a grind for wet heavy, snow e.g. "spring" type conditions- or too heavy a hand by the person running the machine-or too many skis ground without properly maintaining the stonegrinding machine. If you just mean fuzz, some amount is normal.

You can knock down the structure by using "scotch brite" pad. A steel brush will open the structure up. There are also dedicated fibertex pads in varying coarseness grades that you can use along with the steel brush.

The brush helps pull out the fuzz in the "valley" of each striation. The scotch brite pad or fibertex pad removes fuzz from the "peaks" and also knocks them down somewhat, smoothing out the structure.

If the grind is very coarse, it will involve a lot of work. As you work on smoothing out the structure, wax with cold wax ( Swix CH-6 or equivalent) at least several times using a sharp plastic scraper to scrape. This also helps to remove the P-Tex hairs.

You might also consider taking your skis back to the shop and discussing the issue with the shop manager-if the skis are really fuzzy or if the structure not suitable for the conditions you will be skiing in. However, any stoneginding machine will leave some fuzz that should be removed if you want to maximize the skis glide. Skiing on them a lot will eventually accomplish the same thing.

EDIT: For clarity and typos.
post #3 of 5
sometimes the pattern is visible and tangible. my Fischer Worldcup SC slaloms had palpable longitudinal grooves from the factory.

as Lostboy said, the deeper and more complicated (whirling "x") patterns are typically for wetter snow (like in the spring) skiing, to drive out the water much in the way a car's tire grooves divert water from the tire/road interface.
post #4 of 5
It was probably a deeper grind than what was originally on the skis. You probably should have requested a cross hatch or V pattern due to the turniness of the Metron, but the straight structure may help their stability when going straight too... I wouldn't bother knocking it down though... If they feel significantly different, then you can consider it. Take a brass brush to them to get rid of the fuzziness, then wax the living sh!t out of them.

My favorite structure for all-around skiing and racing is a (wintersteiger) 13 depth cross hatch and an 11 depth straight pattern over the top. In the spring you can jump up to a 15 depth cross hatch or higher, but it isn't necessary.


post #5 of 5
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the feedback guys. Plenty of brushing, waxing & scraping forme this weekend then. Better get some more beer in
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