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Expert boot and alignment advice given - Page 10  

post #271 of 275
Originally posted by Cedric:

Anyone with some advice on my post above?

Do you have custom insoles of any kind in the boots? That would be the first place to start, I think. The arch problems would indicate to me that you probably don't have insoles that have been built to your feet.

post #272 of 275
Hi Jeff.... since no one was responding to my post I thought I'd ask you.

I'm trying to get an opinion on the new W-series by Nordica. Stiffness, fit, etc.... How does it compare to the Solly XWave? Which W series (12 or 10) is closest in stiffness to the X 8?

I've tried on the X wave, and have not had a chance to try the Nordica yet. Just trying to decide whether it's worth my time to give it a serious look. I have a "Flintsone" D-width fore-foot, slightly high arch, ave-slightly narrow heel, don't typically have calf problems that many woman have.

post #273 of 275

I posted this on another forum, someone suggested I post it here for you to possibly respond to. Thanks,

I was hoping that someone who is very knowledgeable about alignment issues and canting in particular could provide me with some information.

I am very bowlegged and have been realizing over the past year or so how much this has affected my skiing. Last year I brought my boots to a bootfitter and although he told me they were too big, he did build me some foot beds and adjusted the boots as best he could which made a big difference in my skiing and comfort (i have high arches so the footbeds really helped there.)

Anyway, although the adjustments he made were helpful, it was clear that I still had major alignment issues. Specifically, the bowleggedness forces more weight to the outside of my feet with results in my skis edges being out of alignment relative to each other. Instead of my ski being flat _ _ they tend to be like this / \ Therefore in a turn my outside ski is under edged and want to go more straight down the fall line (understeer) and my inside ski is overedged and wants to turn more sharply (oversteer.) This forces me to either ski on one ski or the other since they don't want to turn at the same rates. Alternatively I can force my knees inward to eliminate the bowleggedness, but this is not natural and hard to do with any consistancy.

So, at my bootfitter's advice i tried putting layers of duct tape between the bottoms of my boots and the ski binding. I don't remember if he told me where to put it so I experimented and found that six layers on the INSIDE of the skis seemed to help a great deal. The duct tape on the inside would result in more edging there and 'flatten' my ski bottoms(from / \ to _ _) and put them in alignment with each other. For the first time ever I felt I could tip my knees simultaneously and both skis would track together through the turn. Also, for the first time I could ski on one ski, previously I would always fall away (inside) from the ski I was on - if I tried to ski on my right ski, I would fall towards the left. The duct tape seemd to fix that and viola! one legged skiing became possible.

Now I know, I know, I know that six layers of tape is alot and can reduce the safety of the binding so clearly I need to ditch the tape and have the boots ground or otherwise adjusted to deal with the canting issues. But the boots were old and not worth the investment so new boots were in order.

Having moved, I asked for recommendations for a new bootfitter and have worked with him to get the footbeds installed and he has adjusted the cuffs and all that. Everything seems fine except for the canting issue. We talked about it and agreed that I should try the new boots with the duct tape to zero in on the proper amount of cant before we grind/adjust the boots. However, he said that since I'm bowlegged I should put the duct tape on the OUTSIDE edges. He showed me how (by standing on a perfectly flat surface) canting wedges would force my knees inward so they are more stacked over my ankles, he said that this would improve my balance.

So now I am thoroughly confused. I can see his point about the knees, but when I am in a turn there is only one edge 'on the ground' at a time, therefore there are not two edges to provide reference forces to guide the knee into place. Wouldn't my knee revert to it's 'normal' position and I be left with even worse ski bottom edge angles? Is he confusing boot/knee alignment with ski bottom edge alignment? Was I imaging last year's onelegged skiing and the simultaneous tracking skiing?


Anyway, any help or insight to the bowlegged skiing question would be greatly apreciated.

1. To find the most effective cant adjustment for a bowlegged skier should one be trying duct tape on the inside or outside side of the ski? (before having the boots ground/modified) Some folks say the outside to move the knee for balance/load reasons, others say the inside to correct the ski edges. Since I don't have any problems or pains with my knees, but have big problems with my edge alignment, shouldn't I be worring about the edges and be using canting to fix that?


post #274 of 275

Old thread

This is the 2002 thread. The 2006 version is in the Gear Review area Click Here. Forrester and Srbarry, you may want copy your questions to the new thread. Jeff does not reply to this thread.
post #275 of 275

Need boot advice: what models to try

Hi Jeff,
Could you please give me an advice.
I am an intermediate to advance skier, 42 years old male, 6.1', 215 lbs, street shows size 11-11.5. I am planning to improve my skiing within the next few years to advance level.
What model/brands of boots would you recomend to try.
I tried Salomon X-Wave 7.0 and 8.0, size 28.0 . Both feels comfotable in the shop. Any advice on X-wave 7.0 vs 8.0? What flex index do you recomend for me based on my height, weight, and skiing level?
Other models/brands to try?

Thanks in advance.

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