EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › So how do I use this edge tool?
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So how do I use this edge tool?

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
I ordered some tuning gear from angus7 (great deal, thanks Angus!), and I want to make sure I use it right. I've got an SVST Pro Side Edge Beveler like this one:

https://www.artechski.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=A&Product_Code =7227&Category_Code=043

First, my tool is 93 degrees. Is that the correct one for a 3 degree side bevel?

Second, I have a spring clamp and two Moonflex diamond stones (100 and 400 grit). Mostly what I'm wondering is which part of the beveler do you put the diamond stone on, where do you put the spring clamp, etc.?

I have a good sense of the basic technique of base and side edge maintenance from prior tools I've used, and I've seen some of the various tuning videos and guides out there. What I'm really wondering about are the specifics of using these particular tools, esp. the side edge beveler (I've used a Multituner tool until now).

Third, I've got this set of stones:

https://www.artechski.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=A&Product_Code =7714&Category_Code=045

They range from 220 to 600 grit. Which, if any, would be best for knocking down the burr after using the diamond stones? Any other good uses for these stones? Should I use any of them before the diamond stones? (I had wanted an Arkansas stone for this purpose, but Angus gave me a good deal on the set so I got that instead.)
post #2 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalce
There are a few threads with links to step by step guides:

http://forums.epicski.com/showthread...dipstik+tuning

Also here is the Swix site which not only gives you video but also shows you what tools they sell to get the job done.

http://www.swixschool.no/
See if these help!

In general, smooth surface goes against the base of your ski. Use a file to shape the edge then follow with a stone(s) to sharpen...

[edit] Never pays to try and be too general. As chipmtu says, course stone first on hardened areas or you'll ruin your file!
post #3 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by skidiver

Third, I've got this set of stones:

https://www.artechski.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=A&Product_Code =7714&Category_Code=045

They range from 220 to 600 grit. Which, if any, would be best for knocking down the burr after using the diamond stones? Any other good uses for these stones? Should I use any of them before the diamond stones? (I had wanted an Arkansas stone for this purpose, but Angus gave me a good deal on the set so I got that instead.)

The stone set is for a progressivly smoother finish. For the stones there is a cutting set and a finishing set. The diamond stones take place of both. The 100 grit is primarily for case hardened nicks in the edge. After filing I would use the 400g diamond to knock down the files marks then proceed to the stone kit for a mirror finish.

The clamp holds the stone or file to the top of the edge beveler, like the previous poster said, smooth side runs along the base.
post #4 of 19
The same thing another way:

The side with no hole in it goes against the ski.

You clamp your stone (or file) to the side that has a hole cut out in the middle.

If you look at the tool as an "L" (the side with the hole cut out is the horizontal line across the bottom). The base of your ski should be pressed against the left side of the vertical line. The stone should be clamped to the horizontal line, underneath it, so it sticks out a little to the left.

(Flip it vertically in order to use it!)
post #5 of 19
Where in Boston do you live?
post #6 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalce
Where in Boston do you live?
Newton. I work near Kenmore Square.
post #7 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by skidiver
Newton. I work near Kenmore Square.
My sister lives in Snewton.

If you can't make it to Summit to have Mike give you a quick tuning demo, I would be happy to swing by to show you anything you wanted to see in person.

I will probably also be tuning this week so I could try to take some pics.
post #8 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalce
My sister lives in Snewton.

If you can't make it to Summit to have Mike give you a quick tuning demo, I would be happy to swing by to show you anything you wanted to see in person.

I will probably also be tuning this week so I could try to take some pics.
Thanks, Scalce. That's extremely generous of you. I've been to one of Mike's tuning clinics, and I feel pretty comfortable working on my skis (I've seen the Swix videos, read several guides on the 'net, and tuned three pairs all last season between my one pair and my kids' two pairs). My questions are really about the new SVST guide and stones that I picked up this past week. But that's a good idea to bring them to another of Mike's clinics, and if I can't do that I just may take you up on your offer

Thanks, everyone, for the great feedback. So it sounds like I attach the stone to the side of the guide with the hole in it, getting it perfectly flat against the guide. Then the part of the guide with the writing on it goes against the base of the ski. Sound right?

Two more quick follow ups:

1. Is 93 degrees the correct angle for the SVST guide? Intuition tells me it should be 87 degrees for a 3 degree side bevel (wouldn't 93 be a negative 3 degree bevel?)? Is the 93 degree guide the correct one for putting a 3 degree side bevel on?

2. After using the 100 (if necessary) and 400 grit Moonflex diamond stones, which SVST stone would I use to knock down any remaining burrs and do a final polish? Would the 600 do the trick, more or less like an Arkansas stone?
post #9 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by skidiver
Thanks, Scalce. That's extremely generous of you. I've been to one of Mike's tuning clinics, and I feel pretty comfortable working on my skis (I've seen the Swix videos, read several guides on the 'net, and tuned three pairs all last season between my one pair and my kids' two pairs). My questions are really about the new SVST guide and stones that I picked up this past week. But that's a good idea to bring them to another of Mike's clinics, and if I can't do that I just may take you up on your offer

Thanks, everyone, for the great feedback. So it sounds like I attach the stone to the side of the guide with the hole in it, getting it perfectly flat against the guide. Then the part of the guide with the writing on it goes against the base of the ski. Sound right?

Two more quick follow ups:

1. Is 93 degrees the correct angle for the SVST guide? Intuition tells me it should be 87 degrees for a 3 degree side bevel (wouldn't 93 be a negative 3 degree bevel?)? Is the 93 degree guide the correct one for putting a 3 degree side bevel on?

2. After using the 100 (if necessary) and 400 grit Moonflex diamond stones, which SVST stone would I use to knock down any remaining burrs and do a final polish? Would the 600 do the trick, more or less like an Arkansas stone?
I am going to tune my slaloms sometime tomorrow so I will take a few pics.

The writing on the guide will be facing away from your base. The shiny and perfectly flat part goes against your base to protect it. If your base is facing to the right just picture the guide to be an inverted "L". The stone is clamped diagonally which overhangs the guide and makes contact with the side edge almost forming a "T".

1. I have seen 3 degrees referred to as both 87 and 93. Same difference.

2. Burrs are more of what rock and ice do to your edges. You knock these down with the 100 or a low grit stone. Striations are what the diamonds stones cause which are removed by a higher grit Moonflex or stone. Even the rough grit Moonstones do a good job of both cutting and poliching at the same time. The 600 stone is fine for a final pass.

Don't forget to do a once over on the base edge after doing side edge work to remove the hanging burr.
post #10 of 19
post #11 of 19
Thread Starter 
Awesome, Scalce! Thanks. I think I get it now.

And yes, by burrs I meant hanging burrs on the base edge after doing the side edge. Sounds like the 600 stone would be good for that.

We're skiing tomorrow (I hope the rain didn't hurt too much today), so I'll give it a try after that and before our next day of skiing on Sat.
post #12 of 19
Scalce, try your stones angled the other direction, in other words the part of the stone that is on the edge is sticking out the back of the tool not the front.

so if your ski is on your right with your bases pointing to your right (I think you are holding the tool to do a ski that way) the overhanging stone is off the back of the side edge beveler not the front. makes it much more solid and less likely to roll off your edge. and it is where the pressure is most contolled with the heel of your hand!

Damn impressive setup otherwise you tuning gear whore!
post #13 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman
Scalce, try your stones angled the other direction, in other words the part of the stone that is on the edge is sticking out the back of the tool not the front.

so if your ski is on your right with your bases pointing to your right (I think you are holding the tool to do a ski that way) the overhanging stone is off the back of the side edge beveler not the front. makes it much more solid and less likely to roll off your edge. and it is where the pressure is most contolled with the heel of your hand!

Damn impressive setup otherwise you tuning gear whore!
Thanks Aman

That's funny becuase yesterday I was playing with the stone in the direction you are talking about.

I noticed that the way I angle it can cause files to pop during a hard pull. I use my thumb as an anchor on the Moonflex so I never noticed it but you can't do that with the panzer file without taking some skin off.

I am a gear whore.
post #14 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalce
Thanks Aman

That's funny becuase yesterday I was playing with the stone in the direction you are talking about.

I noticed that the way I angle it can cause files to pop during a hard pull. I use my thumb as an anchor on the Moonflex so I never noticed it but you can't do that with the panzer file without taking some skin off.

I am a gear whore.
And Proud of it!
post #15 of 19
Thread Starter 
thanks for the tips, everyone! it worked like a charm.
post #16 of 19
I needed my nice sharp edges this weekend up at The Loaf.

I don't think I have ever seen glare ice that bad in my 5 years of skiing.

Nothing like skiing down a double that is sheer ice avoiding people sideslipping for their life.
post #17 of 19
post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Capacity
Boy, it looks like somebody has to much spare money, I only have 3 edge guides and 3 clamps.
I used the money you saved me with the comp Okemo lift ticket for my fourth guide and stone.

post #19 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman
Scalce, try your stones angled the other direction, in other words the part of the stone that is on the edge is sticking out the back of the tool not the front.

so if your ski is on your right with your bases pointing to your right (I think you are holding the tool to do a ski that way) the overhanging stone is off the back of the side edge beveler not the front. makes it much more solid and less likely to roll off your edge. and it is where the pressure is most contolled with the heel of your hand!

Damn impressive setup otherwise you tuning gear whore!
I thought the same thing when I looked at the pictures. I do it the way A-man describes it too.

I actually go through all the available grits (100, 200, 400, 600, 1500), but honestly the 1500 isn't doing all that much.
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