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How to adjust din on Atomic 614

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
Hello,

I've been skiing for several years but always had my din adjusted at the shop. Now, I'm too far away from a shop, and where I'll be skiing there's no shop.

I don't know how to adjust the din. It's set very low now (below 6) and I want it to be at least 7). I see one screw on top of the binding, one in front and three in the rear. The rear screws are one allen on top, then one phillips in the middle and one flat/phillips at the bottom. Which one should I use to get the din adjusted for front and back?

There's also a setting that says active or locked when red or yellow respectively. It's set at active (red) now. I guess I keep it like this, though I have idea what this is.

Thanks, and sorry for the ignorance. If there's a manual somewhere, I'd be glad to go read it, but it didn't come with the bindings and there's nothing on the atomic site.
post #2 of 15
I'm not completely sure on all the details of Atomic, but I can give you general information. The DIN screw will always be a posidrive head (looks like a phillips) and will be at the front of the toe piece. The little "locked" switch on Atomics is the switch to lock the vertical release of the binding- the only time I've ever seen it used in the "lock" position is a teammate who had such a powerful start that he would launch straight out of the bindings. On the heelpiece of the binding, the DIN adjustment screw is going to be underneath the heel lever, pointing out the back, and will again be a posidrive head.

Be careful making your own adjustments. 6 is plenty for most recreational skiers.
post #3 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Takecontrol618
I'm not completely sure on all the details of Atomic, but I can give you general information. The DIN screw will always be a posidrive head (looks like a phillips) and will be at the front of the toe piece. The little "locked" switch on Atomics is the switch to lock the vertical release of the binding- the only time I've ever seen it used in the "lock" position is a teammate who had such a powerful start that he would launch straight out of the bindings. On the heelpiece of the binding, the DIN adjustment screw is going to be underneath the heel lever, pointing out the back, and will again be a posidrive head.

Be careful making your own adjustments. 6 is plenty for most recreational skiers.
Great. This worked fine. I used a philips screwdriver, but I guess I need to go get me this posidrive one. As for the din, I used to be on 6, and a couple of times after jumps, I left one ski behind. It was not good. I'll try 7 and see how this works. 6 is the lowest setting on the Atomic 614. My skis are SX:10. Thanks a lot for the quick response.
post #4 of 15
So am I to understand that the red lock setting should only be set if there is a risk of jumping out of the binding during a launch. that is during regular use one should have this setting open.. Also i have had problems with the dim setting. I Toronto the ski shop set my dim at 5.5 below the min setting. I was at Whistler and my skies were popping out on the blue runs and I ask that they tighten and the tech refused saying it was set correctly. The tech said I should buy new binding with lower dims. I ended up jacking dim myself to 7 and no more popping. But I wonder if i have gone too far. How much different is 6 to 7 dim.
post #5 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by david van der brug
The tech said I should buy new binding with lower dims. I ended up jacking dim myself to 7 and no more popping. But I wonder if i have gone too far. How much different is 6 to 7 dim.
That tech is an idiot. Your din will be fine. I usually ski at din + 2-3. On 614's I just burry them, that binding is a POS.
post #6 of 15
From what I have read, bindings may not perform properly when they are set at either extreme of the DIN range. The prereleasing could be forward pressure related too though.
post #7 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHREDHEAD
That tech is an idiot. Your din will be fine. I usually ski at din + 2-3. On 614's I just burry them, that binding is a POS.
What a moronic comment.

Obviously you don't know what you are doing.

If you guys are this unknowledgeable about a binding, take it to a shop to be adjusted.

YOu must have .5mm of clearance under the toe., the forward pressure set correctly and the realease settings set correctly.

I have numerous sets of R6.14,Cr6,14 & Xentrix 6.14 and have no problem ewith any of them over many years.

The release setting screw is the middle is the upper screw on the very back of the heelpiece. the toe is up in the point of the toepiece.

You guys are scary!
post #8 of 15
I've had many techs work on my 614's. None could get the bindings to stay on.
I even got new boots, still no luck. I sold my slaved Big Daddies w/614's and bought another pair and mounted them with Looks.
They may work for you, but I know a lot of people that had problems with them and they never worked correctly for me.
post #9 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris719
From what I have read, bindings may not perform properly when they are set at either extreme of the DIN range. The prereleasing could be forward pressure related too though.
Forward pressure, Yes the tech thought that since my boots are old (Nordica rear entry circa 1989) I was not maintaining correct forward pressure and that was why a I came out of the bindings. I just bought Lange 120 mf 10.5 so this should be corrected. The skis did pop out on the Whistler double diamond that was run fast lots of ice and very steep there was no reson for this pop. But I don't want to have the din so high that they never pop.
post #10 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHREDHEAD
I've had many techs work on my 614's. None could get the bindings to stay on.
I even got new boots, still no luck. I sold my slaved Big Daddies w/614's and bought another pair and mounted them with Looks.
They may work for you, but I know a lot of people that had problems with them and they never worked correctly for me.
There has never been a known problem with the 6.14 only some vintage 4.12 & 3.10 heels.

Very often binding pre-release is a technique issue. light on your outside ski at the wrong time and sliding, ,no binding stays on in that situation.

You know alot of people who have had problems? what is alot? How many prople could you realy know who have had problems and why.

I hear the same BS about Markers all the time. I have skied on Marker & Atomic bindings for the beter part of 43 years with no issues!
post #11 of 15
Any know how much more stress in % term is an increase on dim setting 5 to 6. I'm thinks that it look like 1 to 2 is 100% more but 2-3 is 50% more and 3-4 25 more so 4-5 is 20% 5-6 is 16% more 6-7 14 % more
post #12 of 15
I just cracked a heel peice on some older 614's, I was under the impression they had known problems. If you ski hard (atomicman doesn't), you stand a good chance of breaking these. If you are fine on a 7 din, you're not skiing hard (unless you weigh 100 lb). You should be fine. You would probably be safe setting them to 9 or 10.
post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway Star
I just cracked a heel peice on some older 614's, I was under the impression they had known problems. If you ski hard (atomicman doesn't), you stand a good chance of breaking these. If you are fine on a 7 din, you're not skiing hard (unless you weigh 100 lb). You should be fine. You would probably be safe setting them to 9 or 10.
Spewing BS per usual.

Both my sons have raced on 6.14's at one point or another.

One was a top ten Sg & GS finisher at Junior olympics the other ranked 4th in the country for his age group in Downhill. both also skied all 4 events!

Highway Star, i would venture to say we all 3 could kick your ass, and the 6.14's worked fine. 6.14's had no known issues only the 4.12 &7 3.10!

Are you such a klutz, that you can't control your skis and they are hitting your bindings and cracking them or is it just that your skis are so wide, they can't stay awau from each other?
post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman
Highway Star, i would venture to say we all 3 could kick your ass,
I highly doubt that.
post #15 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway Star
I highly doubt that.
PS

They were not discussing a cracked housing! As usual you comment was irrelevant!
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