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Best Bevel for every ski made

post #1 of 22
Thread Starter 
1 degree base
3 degree side

Thank you.
post #2 of 22
What is the standard bevel if there is one?
post #3 of 22
Thread Starter 
It varies. I was just having a little fun based on the hundreds of threads I've seen with people asking what the "recommended" or "factory" bevel of individual skis is.
The fact is, regardless of what any manufacturer "claims" that their factory bevel is, in reality it can be all over the board.
All modern skis work very well with a 1/3 bevel. If you need anything different than that, then you already know what you prefer and you don't need to ask the question on a forum.
post #4 of 22
Thanks. So If I bring my skis in for a tune they naturally would use a 1/3 bevel?
post #5 of 22
Every company has their own recommeded bevels but if you want to simplify things my experience has been that any ski will do just fine with 1 degree side and bottom. If you cut them sharper than 90 degrees they may carve better but you have the trade off of being not as strong and chipping more easily. I think a 1/3 might be better for the icey east, but is not necessary out west. I wonder if even Bode Miller can tell the difference between a one-half degree bevel change on this skis?

If you get the Tognar tuning tools catalogue they have a chart with the recommeded bevels for every brand.
post #6 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by ski=free
Thanks. So If I bring my skis in for a tune they naturally would use a 1/3 bevel?
Almost certainly not.
post #7 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudfoot
...if you want to simplify things my experience has been that any ski will do just fine with 1 degree side and bottom. If you cut them sharper than 90 degrees they may carve better but you have the trade off of being not as strong and chipping more easily. I think a 1/3 might be better for the icey east, but is not necessary out west. I wonder if even Bode Miller can tell the difference between a one-half degree bevel change on this skis?
This has been a rumor for a while, but I have just not found it to be the case on modern skis. I ski 1/3 on my skis and know many others who do, too. I do not find the edges to be not as strong as a result. I ski exclusively in the west.

I can pretty much guarantee that Bode can feel the difference.
post #8 of 22
1 and 3

works for me
post #9 of 22
Been doing the 1/3 since the stone-age-long-straigh-ski days. People thought 3 was too much back then, but I liked them just fine ... except for maybe soft fluffy conditions.

Now everybody does 1/3 so I'm looking for another edge ... maybe 1/4 ... or even 1/5!? Ooooooo.
post #10 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodee
Now everybody does 1/3 so I'm looking for another edge ... maybe 1/4 ... or even 1/5!? Ooooooo.
Elitist!

post #11 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by U.P. Racer
1 degree base
3 degree side

Thank you.
Nope.
post #12 of 22

"1 and 3 on every ski!"

"1 and 3 on every ski!" is my mantra.

Do NOT trust any shop to do anything but whatever their "standard edge bevel" is. They lie (alot). Or at least they are either a) ignorant or b) lazy.
post #13 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Highway Star
Nope.
HS

I think I remember reading that you prefer a 1 and 2 because it's more versatile right?

Do you think a 2 is more suited for offpiste or steeper bump skiing versus someone who stays on the groomers all day?

I just think in soft conditions that you can't differentiate a 2 from a 3 anyway, but on ice you can definately tell the difference.

So why not have the best of both worlds?
post #14 of 22
3 degree on the side is pretty much necessary if you race: having the ski not want to bend under you in the course is not very fun... As for base bevel, .5 is also nice (on slaloms for example), but 1/3 is an old reliable for sure.

2 instead of 3 in soft snow condition can cut a bit on the knifing, but really, I don't see much soft snow in the east so...

Also, Bode can probably tell the difference between .5 and .7 base bevel, if not .6 base bevel.
post #15 of 22
Thread Starter 
1 and 3 unless you are a big a stud like Highway Star. But, like I said earlier..... if you are as cool as him, you already know your own preferences and aren't asking for suggestions on an internet forum.

If you need to ask, the answer is 1/3. You'll be fine.

H.S..... I wanna party with you!
post #16 of 22
VailSnoPro and cgeib put together a presentation on this for the ESA that was pretty compelling. A 1/1 means that the ski has a tougher time building a "shelf" because the side of the edge hits the snow before a lot of the edge has built that shelf. A 1/3 seemed to me pretty optimal as a result. Perhaps VSP or cgeib will jump in here to comment.
post #17 of 22
Then why is it that no manufacturers except Atomic and Fischer recommend a 1/3 for their skis?
post #18 of 22

join in

As a home tuner, All I do is try to get the base bevel to Zero

Every error and every "ding" only adds bevel. (Well, unless I took a belt sander to the p-tex and railed the things)

Any way. It works for me. Flat!!!!!

CalG
post #19 of 22
Quote:
Then why is it that no manufacturers except Atomic and Fischer recommend a 1/3 for their skis?
As far as side edge/base bevel goes, it's pretty much voodoo to 90% of the skiers on the slopes so they figure that giving away any figure that isn't 0/0 will pretty much insure that the ski will be skiiable in most, if not all conditions. Also, when machine tuning, 1/3 can eat a lot of the edge material, while 1/1 isn't as agressive... and as we all know, shop technicians, especially at the big resorts, are all very skilled people

PS: No offense to the guys and grils who know how to sharpen, grind, repair and really wax boards
post #20 of 22
1 and 3 it is for me as well. For groomers that is. I do my fats at 1/1 just because there is no reason for them to be hooky. I don't notice any problem with my edges chipping easily or being really grabby. And..I just got a new pair of Nordicas and I hope I'm not going to be proven wrong but I'd guess these are not from factory at 3 -- I swear I can tell a difference in edge grip even in the poor excuse for 'hard' snow we get out here.

btw, it certainly makes sense to me that Atomic and Fischer specify 3 -- they'd be the only companies ballsy enough to do it.
post #21 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssh
VailSnoPro and cgeib put together a presentation on this for the ESA that was pretty compelling. A 1/1 means that the ski has a tougher time building a "shelf" because the side of the edge hits the snow before a lot of the edge has built that shelf. A 1/3 seemed to me pretty optimal as a result. Perhaps VSP or cgeib will jump in here to comment.
Thanks, ssh! The knowledge behind that was all VailSnoPro. I simply did some graphics and animations (yes, animations.) VailSnoPro also did a hands on instructional tuning session at the first ESA in Brighton where he not only explained the how's and why's of bevels, but also showed us how to properly tune & wax.

In a nutshell, Base bevel determines how quickly the edge will hook up as you come thru transition and edge bevel determines how well it will purchase. The two bevels combined calculate to edge angle. An angle of less than 90deg will provide more edge purchase. The more acute the angle, it will dull faster and be less able to resist damage ...but you're going to sharpen it each day anyway, right?

What is the "Right" combination? That's up to you!

Mine is .5/3. My wife and daughter are 1/3 ...I tried .5/3 but they complained of being to grabby - I expect if they notice, then Bode might have some idea too!
post #22 of 22
I like 0.5 degree base much better on my SGs than 1 degree.
The sides are now 2. 0 degrees will not run as fast as 0.5.

For a lot of people it doesn't matter; they detune them anyway. Maybe people who ski Atomic and Fischer demand from their edges.

I can vouch for the fact that 0 and 2 degrees on antique Fischer Vacuums requires a pilot who pays attention, but it works a lot better than the detune a ski shop will give em.

The requests from "factory tunes" stem from the fact that people liked the factory tune and would like to recreate it without chewing through their edges with several trials and errors.
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