Originally Posted by yuyax
For us that are not familiar with the plates that you are using, could you somehow explain how will somebody go about doing this?
I've been using the Tyrolia Carve Plate 13 SLR mainly and some of the VIST Worldcup plates. You can get the VIST plates to use with any binding, but the versions I've been buying (and the Tyrolia plates) are pre-drilled for Tyrolia bindings.
You could also do the same thing with the Marker WC Piston Plates by mounting the "Free" versions of their bindings to the plate. And there are probably others I'm not thinking of at the moment.
The key is that you're only mounting the plate directly to the ski. Once it is mounted the plate will allow you to pick a number of different fore/aft positions for the bindings. Also, if you need to replace and exchange bindings you won't need to muck around with the ski's core since you're only screwing in and out of the plate.
The main thing I watch out for is what the total stand height will end up being when you combine the ski thickness, plate height, and binding height together. I make sure that I never exceed 55mm. 55mm happens to be the FIS regulation, but it's also a good rule-of-thumb since I would consider anything higher than that a bit extreme. Most of my setups come in around 45mm total stand height and I've grown accustomed to having that amount of lift no matter what skis I'm on.