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Atomic 9.16 tuning question

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
At the end of the 2001 season I bought a pair of Atomic 9.16. I skied the ski from the demo shop for 4 days prior. The skis from the demo shop performed great. Turned on a dime. When I finally got on my new 9.16's I would shift weight to make a turn and the downhill ski just kept going straight. No matter how much I would tilt my downhill knee in, it wouldn't (won't) turn. Do new skis need to be tuned or what?? Please help, it's driving me crazy. Thanks.
post #2 of 10
There might be other problems, but I would first detune the skis. They come tuned, but they have to be detuned at the tips and tails. (Some prefer not to detune.) Sometimes shops forget to detune. Take a bastard file and take about three rolling, forward strokes at the tips from about 1/2 inch back from the contact point (snow to base)to the point of the ski, each side; and also do the same with the tails. Increase the 1/2 to about 1 to 1 1/2 for beginners and intermediates.
Draging your fingernail across the edges should take off a bit of fingernail (backside). Doing so across the detuned areas it shouldn't take off any.
Also, is the binding on that ski aligned correctly? Loose? Is the ski warped? have the shop lay the ski on a flat table. Does it lay flat or does it rock back and forth like my-sister-Kate? This may be the real cause! I had a set of old Heads once. One ski was flat- no camber left in it, the other was warped. They were a lot of 'fun' to ski!!! Full of surprises! They were fixable for $15, but that was back in the 60's-70's and they were metal skis.
post #3 of 10
From what you describe, you seem to be in the back seat. Maybe the 9.16 you demoed originally had less than sharp edges (maybe even detuned tips/tails so that clients who demo them do not get in trouble). That is why perhaps you were able to turn them easier.

I hate to say this, but unless you are an expert or racer, these skis will be VERY demanding. I demoed them last year as well and it was immediately obvious that they demand aggressive riding at all times. They were way above my easy riding requirements.
post #4 of 10
dfor, from what i've heard, skis that you just bought and opened the plastic wrapping on are not normally tuned up and at 100% skiable condition. you'll probably want to follow the above recommendation and take them into the shop to check them out.

also, the difference may not be the skis, but the bindings. when you demoed the skis you probably had different bindings. so the ski maybe the same, but a different binding may change the performance of the ski?
post #5 of 10
Do you have the same binding on your skis, as the demo pair? Ramp angles vary from binding to binding, and can affect performance. Also, you may not have been ahead or behind the mounting point on the demo pair, and are now centered on your pair. Hopefully, it is just a tuning issue.
post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
The demos had the typical adjustable Atomic bindings. I now have the Atomic Race 310. Next time I go skiing (Tuesday??) I'll have the shop look at them and have them detuned. Thanks for the help.
post #7 of 10
Thread moved to Gear Forum.
post #8 of 10
"I would shift weight to make a turn and the downhill ski just kept going straight. No matter how much I would tilt my downhill knee in, it wouldn't (won't) turn."

I want to suggest you see a PSIA professional. You don't want to "actively" shift your weight and/or tilt your downhill knee to turn this ski. A weight transfer is not the way to initiate a turn on any ski much less a race ski. You need to be tipping your inside ski while also tipping your ouside leg AND extending the outside leg. It is a delicate blend of tipping/flexion/ and extension that turns any ski. The 9.16 is particularly sensitive to fore aft balance issues.

It sounds to me as though you trying a little too hard to turn the ski.
post #9 of 10
First off i wouldnt detune any shaped ski and especialy not the Atomic Race ski. Detuning was done on old straight ski's to allow them to skid at first to start a turn.
I dont have the 9.16 but I do have the 9.20 Atomic Race ski's and have mine razor sharp from tip to tail I also have my Mod X ski's razor sharp tip to tail. Plus my Rossignol 9S pro 9.9 razor sharp tip to tail. I tune my ski's myself. You could increase the base bevel at the tips and tail by a half degree this will allow the ski to initially slip into a turn easyer try that to see if this helps you. So for Atomic the base edge bevel is 1 degree so increase the base angle at the tips and tail to 1.5 degrees leave the side angle at 3 degrees. Any shop that would take a file to a new shaped ski to detune it is one shop i would make sure they stay away from my ski's.

One more thing if you feel its because the binding location was possably more forward or backward on the demo bindings just try moveing the binding with the 3 position vario zone that the race 3.10's have and see if that helps.

<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ January 06, 2002 08:40 PM: Message edited 1 time, by dc9mm ]</font>
post #10 of 10
The ski should be fine right out of the wrapper. Just wax and go.

Did you unwrap the skis in question, or was it done by the shop? If the latter, did they do any edge/base work as a new purchase favour? When you look at the edge from the base side, are there diagonal striations, or are they along the length of the ski?

Is your boot's mid line lined up with the mid line on the ski? The mid line on the BetaRace 10.22 and 9.16 is the center of the big hole of the Race Charger riser. Use a screw driver to gently lift the binding up enough to see where the center of the big hole is, and mark it with a permanent ink pen Use the Variozone feature to slide binding forward or rearwards so that the lines align. The Centro rental/demo binding automatically centers.
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