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Wax/Tune Technique -- See Pictures!

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
I've NEVER seen anyone wax their ski like this, does anyone do this? It's a wax guide I found online. I would also never consider getting my P-Tex candle this close to a base, doesn't it melt the structure of the base? How hot is a flame?
post #2 of 12
I usually let the hot P-Tex drip on to a metal scraper then run off into the gouge on the base of the ski.
post #3 of 12
I don't like their P-Tex technique but I will lighhtly touch the wax to the iron and then rub it on the ski to get a more even distribution before ironing it in.
post #4 of 12
That does look like a candle that they are using ...... even looks like a wick at the top.

It also looks like they are using a heck of lot of material ...... they are going to iron and scrape off about 90% of everything they just put on.
post #5 of 12
The goal in doing p-tex repair is to prevent a yellow flame. The way to do that is to keep the burning p-tex stick close to the place you are dripping/depositing the melted p-tex. I think the better way is to use a metal scraper, keep the burning p-tex stick close to the scraper until you get to the gouge, then drip the melting p-tex into the gouge from about 1" away. The "closeness" of the demonstration would cause too much dragging of the melted p-tex, which could create air pockets between the melted p-tex and the base itself. Those air pockets will cause the p-tex repair to pull off the base at some point.

The heat of the melting p-tex is the same whether you drip it into place, or use the silly "smearing" technique demonstrated. Neither is more likely to harm the base if the melting p-tex stick is continually moving.

As to the waxing, two faux pas. First is the extremely time-consuming method of "melt wax bar, rub onto base, melt again, rub again, melt again, rub again... etc." It's a whole lot easier to just drip the wax off the iron itself.

Second is the fact that he's using a steam iron without first covering the steam holes. DUH!

Overall, I'm not surprised there are technique errors -- he's repairing a tongue depressor, not a ski.
post #6 of 12
gonzo is right on. It's better to go 1" or less in closeness to the base so you don't get the "flame drip" off the p-tex. You can see in the pics how the p-tex is leaving a drag trail which will cause air as GS said and ultimately work itself out. I use the metal scraper to keep the flame blue and to roll off any carbon before applying to ski.

I am about to order the p-tex irn and string from tognar and give that a try. i used a guys on a trip last year and really liked it in comparison to candles. but, to each his own.

You know, in looking at this, would it be something people would be interested in to have a section for home repairs with pics? Maybe just an archive of a few of the better directions in an area for all to use. As many people that ask "how do I..." just thought it might be useful. AC? Anyone else?
post #7 of 12
Buy a good PTex iron or welder and use it. The fire stick method is really an inferior way to repair the gouge. Also, dont use the PTex stick since it is designed to be burned and is an inferior product to the other PTex products designed for use with irons or welders.

And candle wax? Hmmmmmm, unless you are really cheap go with the real McCoy and get a name brand all purpose hot wax. If you want you can fine tune with a specific temp wax.

post #8 of 12
Yah I'm not sure I would take a whole lot of advice from the site we all looked at.

First, if you are going to use and light a ptex stick I wouldn't use a match. Way to much carbon from a match. Try a buetain lighter or a propain torch, preferably a torch. They don't create as much carbon. I also agree with other posts that a metal scraper is the way to go. However, to do it correctly a ptex gun or a base welder should be used.

As for the waxing. It works, I suppose, Not the way I do it. I have seen people melt the bar and then rub it on but it's messy and time consuming. I would recommend melting the wax on the iron and alowing it to drip of on to the ski. Then meltinging it evenly across the entire ski. If one is using a race wax, HF or CF, and doesn't want to burn it up fast simply rub the wax on over the entire ski first and then melt the thin layer in with an iron.

I think it would be a good idea to have some kind of area here at epic ski for people to go and actually see pictures of different tecniques used in the ski tuning process. I would be willing to post some pictures from my ski shop.

post #9 of 12
I didn't know knuckledraggers waxed their equipment. Lots of amateur advice in that sequence.
I would go with what Gonzo said with the addition of a small base repair tool (Tognar) and if you use p-tex, light it with a torch or lighter instead of matches.
post #10 of 12
So what could possibly be the problem with using an iron with steam holes??

I have both types of irons, with and without steam holes, and I can tell no difference.

Urban mis- information by those who don't do???

The holes hold a good supply of wax, assuring distribution when spreading and melting the dripped on wax. 'So the waxes mix, I do that all the time anyway.

Does anyone have ideas for waxing with hard "blue" wax? This stuff melts at a pretty high temp. Scoarching is always too near when spreading. The heavy old iron I got at the thrift shop has the thermal mass to best deal with the too hot/ too cold process of getting this high temp wax to flow. Perhaps there is a better way? Preheat the ski?

I am having a hard time keeping shallow p-tex candle repairs in for more than an hour or two of skiing. I even "freshened" the base defect with a Dremel tool before the repair.

The repair looks great on the bench and after waxing, but the thing is gone by the days end. I wonder if the waxes have penetrated more deeply, and inhibit bonding.

post #11 of 12
Cal, try the copolymer string from Tognar.
post #12 of 12
[ December 11, 2002, 09:39 AM: Message edited by: Lucky ]
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