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SVST - Stainless Steel vs Aluminum

post #1 of 26
Thread Starter 
Does anybody use the SS SVST side guides instead of the cheaper aluminum one?
post #2 of 26
Yes.
post #3 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by John J
Yes.
Next questions

Is it worth the extra money?

Is it better having one SS guide versus 3 aluminum guides?

Is there a benifit to non WOrld CUp tuners?
post #4 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalce
Next questions

Is it worth the extra money?

Is it better having one SS guide versus 3 aluminum guides?

Is there a benifit to non WOrld CUp tuners?
Doubtful;
No; and
No.

I got the SVST set w/ o edge guide and 1degree, 2degree and 3degree shims.

The SVST screw-in file holder I bought dosent work w/ the shims as it won't let the stone/file line flush w/ the shim so the angle is off. I had to go to the $2.99 spring clamp. You fuss a little w/ shims as well.

If I were to get edge bevelrs again I would buy seperate , individual ones. Possibly the Holomenko individual ones because they look solid and are a good deal.
post #5 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotama
The SVST screw-in file holder I bought dosent work w/ the shims as it won't let the stone/file line flush w/ the shim so the angle is off. I had to go to the $2.99 spring clamp.
I have the same setup, but I didn't notice any problems with using stones/files with the shims and the screw-in clamp. I'm not sure I'm following what you're saying the problem is. Guess I'll have to check it out when I get home.

Anyhow, I do agree that if I had unlimited funds I would prefer to have a separate dedicated guide for every angle I need - much better than screwing around with the shims.
post #6 of 26
Yes, all depends on how much tuning you are doing. The stainless just won't wear out where my aluminum ones have but then they get alot of use in the back shop. I am very happy with the stainless but if you are just maintaining your own quiver, save the money and buy the aluminum one.
post #7 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bud heishman
Yes, all depends on how much tuning you are doing. The stainless just won't wear out where my aluminum ones have but then they get alot of use in the back shop. I am very happy with the stainless but if you are just maintaining your own quiver, save the money and buy the aluminum one.
Thanks for the info

I have an aluminum one but want to pickup a few more.
post #8 of 26
Like Bud says.
It is nice having the heft of the SS.
But if you are thinking of buying multiples of one angle,
go AL. Actually if you are thinking of a quiver of guides
you should look at Race Place's Minis or whatever they call
them. Unless you are about to start tuning for 4 or 5 Nations,
then save your money for a snowy day.
post #9 of 26
Thread Starter 
I have recent connection for the SVST stuff.
post #10 of 26
Gotama, have you contacted SVST? I am sure they will take care of you if you are having a problem with one of their products.
post #11 of 26
The thumbscrew on my 1-degree SS guide is a PITA, but it holds the file more firmly than the spring clamp I used to use on the square aluminum version. I used the aluminum one almost daily for years without wearing it out.
post #12 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by bogusbill
Gotama, have you contacted SVST? I am sure they will take care of you if you are having a problem with one of their products.
I did and they acknowledged the design flaw and problem. The screw in clamp when tightend causes the stone/file to lift off the correct angle set by the shim. Its due to the construction of the screw in guides 90degree angle at the contact point. It work perfectly with the guide without an angled shim.
The gentleman at SVST knew immediatly when I described the problem, said the screw in guide would work right only w/ unshimed guides and he is the one who said to go with the spring clamp.
post #13 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotama
I did and they acknowledged the design flaw and problem. The screw in clamp when tightend causes the stone/file to lift off the correct angle set by the shim. Its due to the construction of the screw in guides 90degree angle at the contact point. It work perfectly with the guide without an angled shim.
The gentleman at SVST knew immediatly when I described the problem, said the screw in guide would work right only w/ unshimed guides and he is the one who said to go with the spring clamp.
I checked out my guide with the thumb screw clamp and I totally see what you're talking about. I didn't even realize that was happening. What a pile of crap. I'm wondering if there's any way to modify the thumb screw clamp so that it would work correctly with the shims. If not, I'm wondering if the thumb screw clamp will work correctly with the guides that don't need the shims (the dedicated guides for specific angles). You seem to be saying that it would (at least the SVST guy seems to be saying that).
post #14 of 26
Thread Starter 
I like using the clamp and don't have any issues with it.

It's quicker and easier then the thumb screw.
post #15 of 26
Update - I spoke with Gavin at ARTECHSKI and told him about the problem with using the thumb screw clamp with the shims. He duplicated the problem there and agreed to replace my multi-angle kit with dedicated guides that will work with the thumb screw clamp. I think I'll be happier without screwing around with the shims.

Don't be surprised if you see a warning posted on the thumb screw clamp description from now on. They seemed to be very appreciative that I brought the issue to their attention. Thanks Gotama and kudos to ARTECHSKI for helping me out when they really didn't have to.
post #16 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noodler
Update - I spoke with Gavin at ARTECHSKI and told him about the problem with using the thumb screw clamp with the shims. He duplicated the problem there and agreed to replace my multi-angle kit with dedicated guides that will work with the thumb screw clamp. I think I'll be happier without screwing around with the shims.

Don't be surprised if you see a warning posted on the thumb screw clamp description from now on. They seemed to be very appreciative that I brought the issue to their attention. Thanks Gotama and kudos to ARTECHSKI for helping me out when they really didn't have to.
Sweet

So are they replacing your various shim degrees with a guide for each angle at no extra charge?

I ended up ordering 3 guides from Angus7 so now I have 4 that I can use.

Tuning is a disease.
post #17 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noodler
Update - I spoke with Gavin at ARTECHSKI and told him about the problem with using the thumb screw clamp with the shims. He duplicated the problem there and agreed to replace my multi-angle kit with dedicated guides that will work with the thumb screw clamp. I think I'll be happier without screwing around with the shims.

Don't be surprised if you see a warning posted on the thumb screw clamp description from now on. They seemed to be very appreciative that I brought the issue to their attention. Thanks Gotama and kudos to ARTECHSKI for helping me out when they really didn't have to.
Spring clamps work better anyway. I have the thumb screw holder also. The shims and spring clamps also allow you to have multi bevelers set to the same angle so you don't have to change files and stones as often whan using a progression. It is much more flexible and economical to use spring clips and much quicker changing stones!

For example I have a 2, two 3's & 4 degree beveler with two 1 degree ,2 & 3 degree shims

I can make numerous combinations of edge bevelers including 3, 3 degrees at the same time. allowing me to change stones and files that less often.

Also can make a 7 degree and two fives for backfiling. Very convenient and efficient.

By the way the stainless bevelers are far superior in weight,feel and friction on your bases. The plain steel ones feel very heavy and rough 7 unfinished. i have one steel & don't like it!
post #18 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomicman
For example I have a 2, two 3's & 4 degree beveler with 1,2 & 3 degree shims
What do you need the 2 degree for?

Are you tuning Highway Star's skis again?

post #19 of 26
The wives old retired Volkl Carver Vectris (she has been on a 160cm C9 for a couple of years now) and some gaper friend's skis.

Also I can use the 2 with a 1 shim & have another 3!

Since you know me so well and know I mostly use my 3's I can have 3, 3 degrees all at once.

A threesome!
post #20 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalce
What do you need the 2 degree for?

Are you tuning Highway Star's skis again?

I would definetly leave a big hanging burr on his skis. Oh, I forgot, hanging burrs don't bother you when your piste-off or is that off-piste!
post #21 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalce
Sweet

So are they replacing your various shim degrees with a guide for each angle at no extra charge?

I ended up ordering 3 guides from Angus7 so now I have 4 that I can use.

Tuning is a disease.
I've used the thumb screw clamp and mine does not seem to gap. When you place the beveler against the base and use mild pressure on the top, directly on the thumb clamp plate, the way I hold it, holds the stone or file tight against the shim anyway. What difference does it make when you are tuning "AIR"

Don't get me wrong I am an absolute perfectionist about my tuning, but I think you guys are overstating the problem here. As I said once you place the setup on the ski and hold it with your palm & thumb it compresses the stone directly against the shim and the correct angle.
post #22 of 26
SS with a spring clamp from Home Depot. Keep it simple. I like to have one set up with a file and one set up with a diamond stone. That way it's less time spent changing over.
post #23 of 26
Thread Starter 
I think clamps are the best way to go too.

cheap and easy
post #24 of 26
Thread Starter 
I just received my 3 file guides and they are the aluminum ones without the SS skid plate.

I didn't even know they made aluminum ones without the wear plate.

I called SVST and I guess it is a slightly cheaper model that is only available to shops.

I doubt I will wear it out.

I already have one pro edge but it does have the SS skid plate.

This shouldn't be an issue using the 3 new ones and the old one for a stone progression right?

I mean 3 degrees is 3 degrees.
post #25 of 26
For aluminum guides, i take sandpaper(gummi?) and hit all the leading(and trailing) edges on the bearing surface. I guess you could call it beveling. I don't think there is any problem.
post #26 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by John J
For aluminum guides, i take sandpaper(gummi?) and hit all the leading(and trailing)
edges. I guess you could call it beveling. I don't think there is any problem.
Cool

thx
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EpicSki › The Barking Bear Forums › On the Snow (Skiing Forums) › Tuning, Maintenance and Repairs › SVST - Stainless Steel vs Aluminum