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Alternative Canting Approach

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
(Also posted in Instructional Forum)

I am in the process of getting new boots this season (Dalbello CRX Impulse or Superride). I have had my alignment checked out in them and expect to need 1.5 to 2.0 degrees of cant on each side - I will ski my first day or two with temporary heel wedges to be sure this is correct.

My normal choice for canting (given current technologies) would be to grind the boot sole to the needed angle, add a plate on the bottom, and route the top of the toe back to din. However, as I do some climbing in my ski boots I consider it a real risk factor to have slick plates (even more so than normal boot soles) on my toe and heel.

So my plan is to remove the heel and toe (removable grips) and fit standard binding cant material underneath them before replacing them. Then I will have the top surface of toe and heel routed back to DIN specs.

My question is whether anyone has experience with this apporach? Will the minimal thickness of a 1.5 to 2 degree cant affect the hold or seating of the screw? Is it possible to heat the cant material and make a sharp bend in it to match the bevel on the boot heal and toe? Is it a reasonable assumption that the small amount of material which needs to be removed from the top of heel and toe (already relatively thin because of the removable heel and toe grips on the boot sole) will not sufficiently affect the strength of them enough to worry about?

Thanks for any help.
post #2 of 7
I just spoke to my local bootfitter; this is exactly what they are proposing to do with my Atomic 11'50s.
post #3 of 7
I canted my atomic race boots by inserting strips of alumunium between the boot itself and the removable heel/toepieces.It worked fine!.
I don't understand why atomic and lange are not designing "canting strips" for their boots.With a set of 0.5, 1 and 2 degrees you would be able to align yourself easily and with a lot of precision.
This system would be much cheaper than selling canted heel/toe pieces.
post #4 of 7
Check the Jeff Bergeron thread. I think he specifically says not to do this.
post #5 of 7

Is the cant under your big toe, are you pronated/pronating or under-edged?

If so, Bob Barnes has had an interesting discussion with Bob Gleason, who is well known around here as a premier bootfitter. It's believed the new Fischer boot will correct this issue due to it's 10 degree rotation on an axis in the middle of the boot.

I tend to believe this. I used the boot last year on skis that were shimmed (sp?) under the binding two degrees and found I went from under to over edged in the prototype boots.

I was at a Fischer meeting yesterday with pros from two states and we were all fairly excited about the boot. Apparantly in the past any attmpt to do this has not been ten degrees and in addition has not been on the same axis.
post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 

My first in-shop alignment assessment with the Dalbello's was that one side needed thick side in and the other thick side out. This is different for me than in the past when I needed thick side out on both sides. That's why I want to check things out on the slope.

In terms of the specific boot - if only it were feasible to just switch to a boot that had a technical feature you want or need. Fit is still, by far and away, the most critical issue in my mind. If I lived at a resort where the person I bought the boot from was willing and capable of providing unlimited fit modifications perhaps it might be different. Even still, though, I think I would go with fit over any technical characteristic.

I am also interested in trying the Dalbello because of its ramp and forward lean adjustments. I would really like to play with these as I feel they may have some impact for me. Of course once I know what works I'd like to get rid of all the bells and whistles as well.
post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Originally posted by epic:
Check the Jeff Bergeron thread. I think he specifically says not to do this.
Haven't checked out his comments (there's a lot to sift through to find it) but I would think the issue probably relates to stability of the toe and heel. For example, in the case of the Atomics it doesn't look like the interface is between heel/toe and boot is flat (haven't actually seen them with the heel adn/or toe off). This gives stability to the toe and heel but makes adding a non-comprimising canting wedge problematic. In the case of the Dalbellos, the heel plate still seats itself on a hard plastic heel and similarly for the toe. In both cased the interface is flat (actually the intersection of two flat planes due to the bevel that is present).
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