Originally Posted by comprex
Or you can melt waxes with an iron directly onto the ski for Much Less Hassle.
In my experience, that's a real common way to mix wax onto a ski. Say you want to wax half red and half yellow: you take two bars (equal size), hold them both to the iron and drip. If you want, say, 2 parts red and 1 part yellow, take two bars of red and one of yellow. Once you start getting to 5 parts X and 1 part Y, it gets a little hard, though.
For more precise mixing, combined with the wax-saving "crayoning" technique, you can use the checkerboard approach. It's described on the Dominator website in the context of mixing their temperature-specific fluoro race waxes with the appropriate anti-static additive for new or old snow. Basically, you crayon first one bar, then the other, onto the ski in a checkerboard pattern. To "crayon" most effectively, touch the end of the bar to the iron for a moment, then rub the slightly softened end on the ski. Repeat.
I've used the crayon technique with expensive(ish) fluorinated waxes to avoid waste. Seems a little loopy with paraffin, but hey: if it's important to you to get the price of a wax job down under a nickle, go for it.
If you want to get snazzy ... try crayoning the harder wax along the edges, then dripping paraffin (somewhat frugally) and ironing quickly.
I've heard other people (well, okay, exactly one
other person) suggest the idea of synthesizing a whole range of cheap temperature-specific waxes by mixing varying amounts of the coldest/hardest wax with paraffin. Personally, it seems to me that once you factor in the value of the work involved and the waste of wax that adheres to what you mix it in (not to mention the cost of a ruined cooking pot!), it's not really worth it. Plus, I think you're going to be going on pure guesswork when you try to decide what mix goes with what temperature range.
|would a ski waxed with paraffin be faster than a ski with no wax at all on everytype of snow or just the warmer ones?
Definitely faster than no wax on warmer and "normal" temperature days. When you get to really cold, dry snow (i.e.
the stuff that crunches, or won't really form into a snowball) it may not be much of an advantage. If you've properly scraped and brushed, I don't think it should be worse
than no wax, but I haven't really done any rigorous experimenting. That snow is often just really slow and grippy no matter what you do.