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Edge Hold and Tuning

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
After skiing on my 03 Rossi 9S WC's last season I never felt that I was using the skis correctly. A couple of times the skis would hook up and pull you around, but this rarely happened. The skis are a little stiff forme, but I was putting perfect rail road tracks down. These are my first slalom skis so I don't know if I should be getting this g-force feeling the entire way down the mountain, but I keep on reading about it. The tuning are the stock rossi, which is like 3 degrees (or is that Atomic).

Would a different tune make it easier to get the skis to make tighter turns? I bought a edge sharpener/beveler tool, so would degree should I use for basic tuning?

Another question, my demo bindings are adjusted so that the boot is about 3mm forward of the center marking. I can either keep they 3mm formward or move they 3mm back. What should I do?

post #2 of 8
If you are using a 3degree side-edge, that should be sharp enough.

There are a few factors which will dictate ski performance.
Pilot weight
Pilot power
Pilot technique
Ski flex
Edge preparation
Binding ramp angle
Boot flex
Boot forward lean
Boot sole alignment
Snow density

Race skis are designed for racing. World Cup slalom tracks are water injected and resemble a tilted ice rink more than a ski slope. World Cup slalom racers are as technically proficient and powerful as can be and are physically larger than racers of years past.

My slalom skis have a flex more suited for the conditions I normally encounter at Whistler. I went with a softer shovel so that plowing through softer snow was restricted. I put riser shims under the binding 2mm toe, 3mm heel so I increased ramp slightly by 1mm at the heel and am now at FIS max height. I use an 18degree forward lean for slalom which increase tip pressure during turn initiation. Edge preparation is 3deg side, 1deg base, with a very high polish to eliminate edge drag.
post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
Well I am on the lighter side for my skis, so what can I do to help overcome this issue? The legue that I race was no restictions, so would more lift help? Like I said earlier, I can't get the binding and boot perfectly in the middle, so should it be 3mm forward or back?

Also what degree should I tune them at with my Multituner?
post #4 of 8
I would stick with a 3 on the side with that ski. When i skied it there was a 1 and 1 on it and i thought it was way too grabby. I didnt like it at all. Last season my team mate had edge trouble with his Elan's and his Volkl's. We got the Vokl's a good base grind, and re tuned the Elans 1 at the tip and 3 for the rest of the ski. He said it hooked up a lot faster in the turn with the 1 on the tip. Only attempt to do that to your skis if you know what you are doing. I would get a good basegrind and then put a really really good hand tune on them. After that - work on your technique. They are race stock skis, so they take a lot of work in the turn. You have to give it 100% at the top of the turn, and then power into the next turn. You dont have any time to rest between turns really - especially with that ski turning at 10.4m or some tiny little number like that. Also you might get a better edge with a 3 degree file guide. I always do best with the fileguide, versus the multi angle tools. The base may be key though, chances are you wont feel a change in the bevel at the tip.
post #5 of 8
What type of snow are you skiing, and what type of skiing are you doing?
post #6 of 8
Also with your binding, need to take into account your weight/height, ie. where is your centre of gravity. And again it needs to be related to your style of skiing.
post #7 of 8
Let this be a lesson to those who think they need race stock skis.

Since you're on the lighter side, bulk up. A personal trainer can help with motivation and prescribing the proper exercises. Once you are heavier and stronger, a coach can help you improve technique so that you can use the strength and power to maximise ski performance.

There are no simple cures. With the demo bindings, experiment with fore/aft positioning. Try different heights. A plastic supplier should have various thickness of polycarbonate, and a good skishop should have a selection of longer screws. Get a perfect tune on your skis so that you know that the base is flat and the edges are to the angle you want and are polished to World Cup smoothness (there should be no longitudinal striations visible with a magnifying glass). Experiment with body positioning while skiing. Certain skis work better with weight forward, others in the middle, and rarely with a rearward weight bias, or a combination depending on the part of the turn one is in. Finally, you might want to try out the retail version of the ski. The flex and shape might be more beneficial to your skiing. If it works, sell the Race skis and buy the retail ones.
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 
Well all the edges are stock, so is that 1 degree? They are at the shop currently so I will call and get them done at 3.
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