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Structure Tool

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Where can I get one of these that is wide enough to use on alpine skis? I like the idea of being able to impart a cross-hatch style structure without stone grinding.
There are a few tools out there with a linear structure, but I haven't been able to find anything like the link above.
post #2 of 13

There are some great suggestions here at this site Tognar Tuning Tips

I use silicon carbide sand paper in different grits. I found it, at The Home Depot, in roll form for use on detail sanders. The paper has an adhesive on the backside making it easy to stick to a dowel.

You can put in a cross-hatch pattern by moving the paper diagonally across the ski.

post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Have you ever tried to structure skis using sandpaper? It works, but then you are starting over at square one as far as making the skis fast again. I've spent all season waxing my skis often and saturating the bases.
I'm really looking for a tool very similar to the one in the picture that "presses" a structure into the plastic without creating hairs that take hours of work, multiple waxings and many days of skiing to remove.
post #4 of 13

Yes, I use the sandpaper to structure the skis. I don't re-do the structure too often. As you point out, it takes along time for it to really pan out. The skis go faster after a few weekends on the new structure.

I don't scrape too often when I wax. I'm not really into racing, just going fast

post #5 of 13
Don't the ski bases go furry from the sandpaper?
post #6 of 13
I use a ski visions planer with a structure bar and it produces far less work getting rid of hair after structuring.

From Tognar " This tool also accommodates a variety of stone blades so you can create or maintain a linear structure on your base. A few quick passes with this tool after a week or so on the slopes will freshen up your structure, keep the base flat, and improve its ability to absorb more wax. Such periodic touch-ups increase performance without creating appreciable base wear. "
post #7 of 13
I only structure once or twice a season, that includes getting a stone grind. I don't notice if I have lots of little fuzzies after I use the sand paper. I do rub it after with scotch-brite pads to wear off any hairs. I don't have a loop to check out the bases real close, I tried binoculars backwards, but the skis seem so far away : skiing wears off the hairs eventually. I'm not big into racing but I like a good tune.

post #8 of 13
I also use silicon carbide paper for structuring.
Between brushing, fibertex (scotchbrite) and multiple wax runs, the bases are pretty much rid
of unsightly hairs.
post #9 of 13
Hmmm, U.P. Racer, that's actually a pretty darn good question- how to change your structure without refeeding all the wax from scratch (hee).

Using replacement rollers for the Toko unit, it looks like you could build one for roughly $180 (3 rollers of approx 55mm, six (hardwood dowel?) pivot points and 2 sections of PVC tubing).


What of rigging a straight-guide clamped to the ski instead of the four corner pegs on the Toko unit and using multiple passes? Do you really care if the cross-hatch is not aligned?
post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I thought about building one..... I can't picture what you mean about the straight guide on the ski.
post #11 of 13
Originally posted by U.P. Racer:
Yeah, I thought about building one..... I can't picture what you mean about the straight guide on the ski.
The question really is: why can't you use the existing unit 3 times over? Answer: because the resulting longitudinal structures are quite likely not to be parallel amongst themselves.

So. You can't use the sidewall, as they do in the existing unit with the four corner pegs. Too much sidecut in alpine skis.

Imagine a guide rail, say of UHMW PE such as the second item on this list, tall enough to guide the unit using the pegs, wide enough to fit within the pivoting shoulder of the brass riller, long enough to fit the ski and flexible enough to clamp against it.

(Edited to say that I think you're on the right track with the press-in structure bit, since there's some evidence that you may be able to remove it later just by reheating the ski. And to say that I'm probably going to try doing up a poor-man's version using brass allthread, for experimental purposes. )

[ March 09, 2004, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: comprex ]
post #12 of 13
</font><blockquote>code:</font><hr /><pre style="font-size:x-small; font-family: monospace;">Swix riller mm Metric tpi UNsize
Xtrafine .25 M1-M1.2 101
Fine .50 M3 50.8 #2
Medium .75 M4,M5 33.8 #6
MedCoarse 2 M14,M24x2 12.7 9/16
XtraCoarse 3 M24 8.5 1</pre>[/quote]As you can see, it will be a bit of a challenge to find all those in 5" brass.

[ March 11, 2004, 02:59 PM: Message edited by: comprex ]
post #13 of 13
Not looking good, U.P. Racer. I long suspected that the Toko Structurite was cut sharper than the 60degree included angle of regular threading. I am mystified as to how the nordic folk might use these on steel-edged skis as even the strong threads on the all thread were visibly dulled by the edges after about three passes, without leaving a significant (visually continuous without skips) press-in.

Two other avenues of attack:

- Structuring a hot ski so that it's effectively base high during the process

- Center-guided structure tool explicitly narrower than the waist of the ski.
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