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Binding heel-only lifts

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
When I was at ESA last season, Bud Heishman and Bob Barnes found that I ski remarkably better with a 3mm lift slipped between the heels of my boots and the binding. Obviously not a very permanent solution, but it worked for experimental purposes. Anyway, what are my options for making this permanent? I am a full subscriber to the theory that "N + 1" pairs of skis are needed where "N" is the number you currently have.

Most of my skis are equipped with some version of the Marker Piston binding system, so the "ski base to boot sole" distance is the same. Is it possible to grind the toe part of the boot down to simulate a 3mm heel lift? That seems like an awful lot of grinding going on. Or can you just slip a 3mm lift under the heel part of the binding to simulate this?

post #2 of 7
Just go to an acomplished boot fitter and he can put a 3mm lift plate on the sole of your boot. Its that easy, just make sure that the bootfitter knows what he is doing!
post #3 of 7
There two ways to go about this. One is to add 3mm to the bottom fo the boot and then router down the upper facet of the heel interface to return the thickness to DIN. The other is to add a 3mm shim between the binding and the ski (or ski's plate if present) and use 3mm longer screws. Different bindings have different ramps, so using 3mm on your test setup will work with that binding, but might not work as well using a different brand or model of binding. I use the same bindings on all my skis (Atomic Race 1018) so there is a consistency and I tweak each binding depending on the skis using binding shims. Boots are lifted equally toe and heel.
post #4 of 7
Our ski tuning center (at the hill), sold an under the footbed lift (very slight) wedge. The cost was $3 for two of these. I'm pretty sensitive to the fit of the boot but I didn't notice any appreciable change in fit and for the cost, you may achieve the same result.
post #5 of 7
I have seen the shims added to the interior of the boot, but I have always been skeptical of adding anything into my boots that was not put there by a boot fitter. If you KNOW that this is something you want to be permanent, then ramp your boots by doing exactly what Betaracer said. If you are not sure, and want to have some adjustability - then I would use a binding shim. Remember that this may require different screws and special machining, so I would take it to a shop that you TRUST. I actually build all of my own lifters for my skis. My father just happens to own a side business that just happens to fabricate to-spec acryllic and polycarb parts for other businesses... as a result I have a fairly decent machine shop at my disposal to do as I please when I have the time. However, I have never changed the ramp angle of a plated binding like a piston. I usually only play around with bindings that mount on top of an existing plate - like Salomon or Maker's that are on the piston race plate. I usually shim my toes up a few mil's so i can get more foreward pressue without falling over my tips, but this is only with spacer bindings.


post #6 of 7
Kevin, Bud did the same with me, then put the shim inside my boot - between the liner and the sole. When I got home, I realised that the shim he used was roughly the same depth as the original Technica insole, so I cut the heel section off it, and put that under my custom insole - it fits perfectly with the boot liner, and with the insole!
post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the quick replies. I was under the impression that putting heel lifts inside the boot does something inherently different then putting a heel lift under the boot? My boots are so tight anyway that I'm very hesitant to slip anything else in there.

The shop I use is run by our very own SkiDoc, so I'll talk to him and see what he can do.
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