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Atomic bindings

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 
I was wondering how Atomic bindings stack up against other brands. I'm looking at some Xentrix 614 Race, and some CR 614 TDs. I'd like to know if there are any common issues with them that would make them ones to pass on. I'm a moderately aggressive advanced skier and weigh 200lbs. Thanks.
post #2 of 27
I can only tell you that I haven't had any problems with the CR:412's on my R:11's....
post #3 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandit2941
I can only tell you that I haven't had any problems with the CR:412's on my R:11's....
Wow, that was quick, muchas gracias!

Anyone else?
post #4 of 27
Primarily based on anecdotal evidence (much, but not all, of it here):

There was a "bad version," a few years ago, which were prone to some defect that made the heels pre-release unpredictably. The problem was later fixed. The plastic shell on the good version is mostly black (both heel and toe piece), with colored inserts (red, yellow, green, gray or orange) made of semi-transparent plastic and a colored snout on the toe. The older problem-prone ones had colored plastic shells. Actually, the "bad" ones I've personally come across all had red shells (race). I don't remember if they came in the whole rainbow that year.

If the current version is adjusted correctly it seems to work fine. As with pretty nearly all bindings, you need to ensure the forward pressure is correct or you'll walk out of the toe, heel or both. Also as with pretty nearly all bindings, there are some people who are emotionally opposed to them.
post #5 of 27
Another note:

Unless you're concerned about stack-height limits for racing, you'll probably prefer to get the CR rather than the Race. The CR ("cruise-ride," I think?) stands slightly higher and has a real AFD.
post #6 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjjohnston
Another note:

Unless you're concerned about stack-height limits for racing, you'll probably prefer to get the CR rather than the Race. The CR ("cruise-ride," I think?) stands slightly higher and has a real AFD.
Real AFD? What type of AFD does the race have?
post #7 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by volantaddict
Real AFD? What type of AFD does the race have?
A flat piece of plastic.
post #8 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sjjohnston
A flat piece of plastic.
Thanks for the heads-up on the AFD, or lack thereof. I just looked at the pictures again, and sure enough, there isn't even a strip of teflon!
post #9 of 27
the race version has 12mm's of stand height to accomodate the 17mm race plates on the skis. the cr bindings are in every way, shape and form, the same. they differ only in that they have a 24 mm lift for non-plated skis or for those looking to double stack for more stand height. the white strip that you see is actually a mixture of surlyn and p.u....the race afd has the surlyn component mixed into the black pigmented material that makes up the entire piece. leaving the actual strip of afd material off the race binding allows for more tolerence in the toe height adjustment when dealing with 3,4,5,7 and 8mm boot lifters( especially today when most are toe high in slalom).
both afd types have the same re-centering/ release properties.
post #10 of 27
I had been using Salomon drivers from 89 till last year when I got my Metrons with Neox 412's. I have had NO issues with them last year and no pre-releases. They are fine.
post #11 of 27
great! we were shooting for this year to be all neox, unfortunately it will be another year until all of the re-tooling can happen. neox bindings have been very reliable and are substantially lighter for 05-06. imo the cool thing about them is that during the assembly process the last thing that happens is the spring is inserted into the housing and is cycled by the computer/robot. because each and every spring is different, the din scale is laser etched onto housing according to how that particular spring tested. the actual length of the scale that appears on the housing will vary by as much as a few mm's. essentially now there is no need for in-use ranges and working ranges because a 6 is a 6 is a 6. no more having all four pieces of your bindings set at four different numbers to achieve din setting.
post #12 of 27
I have been skiing the Xentrix 614 Race, well I think it is the "Race" because the DIN goes to 14, and have not had any problems with them. I have about a season and 1/2 on them and some hard miles. I am a big guy and would recommend them except for the fact that they weigh about as much as my pickup truck, but the new "adjsutable" binding are all getting pretty heavy. I think my Atomic CR 412s are about the same weight if you factor the rails in.
post #13 of 27
race/xentrix are the same, they use the same housings and both are available as 3.10, 4.12 or 6.14. the amount of lift is what seperates them, but they are different models.
post #14 of 27
I have 2 pairs of Atomics w/ 4.12 bindings. Since the heel issue I have had no pre-releases or defects. Looks and Tyrolias also work well.
post #15 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by logruve_
the race version has 12mm's of stand height to accomodate the 17mm race plates on the skis. the cr bindings are in every way, shape and form, the same. they differ only in that they have a 24 mm lift for non-plated skis or for those looking to double stack for more stand height. the white strip that you see is actually a mixture of surlyn and p.u....the race afd has the surlyn component mixed into the black pigmented material that makes up the entire piece. leaving the actual strip of afd material off the race binding allows for more tolerence in the toe height adjustment when dealing with 3,4,5,7 and 8mm boot lifters( especially today when most are toe high in slalom).
both afd types have the same re-centering/ release properties.
Well that's a definitive answer. Just to be certain on an other point, can they be mounted on '02 Volants with the flat plastic pseudo-plate?
post #16 of 27
you can put anything you want on there, the worst part is just getting the hole drilled in those things-LOL!
post #17 of 27
I've been skiing on Xentrix 310s for about 5 or 6 years. No problems.
post #18 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by logruve_
you can put anything you want on there, the worst part is just getting the hole drilled in those things-LOL!
No doubt, I plan to leave that honor to the ski shop. Incidently, although I've heard of ski shops charging extra for mounting Volants, my favorite one in town doesn't. Actually they mount and test for only $25.
post #19 of 27
I've had lots of problems with my 614 Big Daddy bindings. They are really hard to properly adjust the forward pressure and still prerelease 50% more often than my looks.
post #20 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHREDHEAD
I've had lots of problems with my 614 Big Daddy bindings. They are really hard to properly adjust the forward pressure and still prerelease 50% more often than my looks.
What year are they?
post #21 of 27
Thread Starter 
I bought the CR 614 TDs for $102.15, including shipping, on eBay. Much thanks to all who offered input. The 614 Race as well as another set of the CRs are still up for auction if anyone is interested. The CRs have a "buy it now" price of $99.95 plus $12 shipping.
post #22 of 27
the forward pressure is very easy is to adjust, it should be flush with the housing. very often, with problematic bindings (and if the forward pressure won't stay constant), it's because people adjust or have adjusted the fwd pressure with the boot IN the binding. all it takes to screw them up is doing this one time. the adjustment screw is a worm gear and sets into the slots cut into the rear of the stainless band. with the boot in the system it is very easy to ever-so-slighlty strip the band slots (threads). if your binding is not a hundred yrs old and you are not happy, drop me an email and i'll square you away the best i can. mabettencourt@atomicski.com
thanks,
mark
post #23 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by logruve_
the forward pressure is very easy is to adjust, it should be flush with the housing. very often, with problematic bindings (and if the forward pressure won't stay constant), it's because people adjust or have adjusted the fwd pressure with the boot IN the binding. all it takes to screw them up is doing this one time. the adjustment screw is a worm gear and sets into the slots cut into the rear of the stainless band. with the boot in the system it is very easy to ever-so-slighlty strip the band slots (threads). if your binding is not a hundred yrs old and you are not happy, drop me an email and i'll square you away the best i can. mabettencourt@atomicski.com
thanks,
mark
I never knew that. I always watched everyone else(shops included) pop the boot in the binding and turn the screw flush with the boot in it. What should you do, guesstimate how much to tighten/loosen it with the boot in the binding, then pop the boot out and adjust, then check again, etc?
post #24 of 27
yes, if the screw is sticking in or out, take the boot out and give it a turn or two in the appropriate direction. continue until it's flush. that's all there is to it.
post #25 of 27
logruve, with the new lighter weight 05/06 Neox 412's fit my 04/05 b5's?
post #26 of 27
yes, they are exactly the same binding/hole pattern as the original neox. with the two bindings side by side, they feel much lighter than the first version.
post #27 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by logruve
yes, they are exactly the same binding/hole pattern as the original neox. with the two bindings side by side, they feel much lighter than the first version.
Many thanks.
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