Originally Posted by TomB
Thanks John, I think this makes sense to me. What you are saying is that the Harb Carvers have some flexibility in the chasis (through the placement of front wheel and back wheels. I could see that deformation causing the wheels to effectively form a "sidecut". Very clever!
The chassis is totally stiff. I made a pair, using oak for the chassis.
They are not adjustable, since I made my own bindings. I have purchased aluminum for the next upgrade, (from the metal supermarket) , because oak is so darn heavy.
The hardest part is finding bolts for axles that would not bend under my weight. You can get them at a Brafasco outlet store. Still, the front axle bends a bit, especially when skating back uphill -- I must be careful not to push off the toe too much....
I used 82A wheels, which work fine for me. I'd go for softer wheels to enhance the turning effect for lighter folks.
IMO, the important stats are to ensure that the centerline of the wheels are directly under the edge of the boot sole. That will model a ski with a 64 mm waist.
I don't think that the fore and aft position is too important, just so long as the front wheel is infront of the ball of the foot, and the back wheel is behind the heel -- else you fall over. It's not too important because the wheel position does not need to be adjusted for your shoe-size.