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Extrusion vs. Drip P-Tex

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 
I don't know if this has been discussed, I thought I'd get some feed back. I just moved to a new resort and will be overseeing the a few departments, one of them being the Repair Shop. I have a new Repair Manager that is also new to the resort and brings some fairly strong opinions regarding this subject. The dilema is that there is a staff of technicians in place that also have their set ways which oppose the Manager. I realize that this is not the most critical topic in all of ski-dome, but it seems to be sparking quite the debate amongst the staff. I would love to get some feedback from both a technician standpoint(the tech in the shop working on the repair)and the service standpoint(what is best for the customer or what the customer expects from a repair shop). Thanks
post #2 of 3
I'm really suprised there is still debate about this! Especially with somebody experienced such as I assume your repair manager is.

Drip is great if its your only option, but the new Ptex does not usually bond wonderfully with the old Ptex. This is because the Ptex in the hole is a radically different temperature as the Ptex being dripped in, and because dripped Ptex often can have some carbon deposits in it.

Good extrusion based base "welders" heat up the area around the hole, then extrude the new Ptex at a more closely matched temperature, and they don't contaminate the Ptex with carbon.
post #3 of 3
I have a little experience in this manner(15 years in the basement of some shop)welders, extruders, guns and modified soldering irons all work great. The funny thing is X-mas eve they break when there are 97 skis lined up and due for the next day. Dripping is terrible because of the previously mentioned carbon build up(not to mention the ugly scars it leaves when you drip on on your weak hand). After all this time the most effective base repair tool I have seen is a sort of spoon that you mount to propane torch. You preheat the p-tex(flat strip about 1.5mm thick) and then press it into the base with the spoon that is being heated constantly by the flame.Using this system it is virtually impossible to have any carbon build up. The tool has been available through various ski repair suppliers on and off for as long as I can remember. I have nothing against the newer whiz bang equipment but sometimes the simple tool is still the most effective. The only thing to be aware of is some state/province OHSA rules prohibit open flame and or plastic being melted without ventilators(although a tech should always wear eye/ear/lung protection anyway with all the crap that floats around a shop all the time.
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