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Waxing is HARD!

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Waxing an old pair with white base was easy I just clean the base with alcohol than heat, drip, wax and that was it. The base seems to just suck in all the wax and all I had to do was scrape and everything seems smooth. Even scraping the metal edge was easy the wax would just come off like it suppost to no cracking or chipping wax surface between the metal and the base. EASY

Waxing the new pair with black base was another story. I did clean the base with alcohol and I did the heat drip wax process. I iron in the wax with a tiny iron. Maybe because the base was black I could see alot of white uneven area after I finish ironing the entire ski. Some white area would disappear slowly within minute when cooled but some just stays there. If I try to iron that spot that spot would disappear but a new one would turn up next to it. Did I do something wrong? was my iron temp too hot?(the whole wax surface would turn to water like when the iron makes contact) It was hard to get an even thickness all over the surface on the new skis. was the wax just not doing it's thing or it was just me not ironing it on right?(I push in one long direction toward the edges back forth) Some time one run of the iron was enough becuz the wax would turn water like(a problem)It felt like ironing wax on glass.... After I scrapping, some part would look shiny perfect black but I still have those white gonna peel off soon white ringworm area
post #2 of 7
As long as the wax wasn't smoking then your temp wasn't to high.

To achieve the shiny finish you're looking for you need to scrape, then re-wax, then scrape, then polish with a nylon brush, then polish with a smoft brass brush, finally polish with a mohair or horse hair brush.

Once you've done this your bases will be shiny and you will be fast.

The reason you're noticing a differance is the colour not the base material.

That said, someone here may be able to comment based on the actual material, race base / carbon base / extruded, inlayed or otherwise....

What model ski is it?
post #3 of 7
If the wax (too hard), the ironing temperatures and the state of the base are not the problem and supposing the skis were waxed at comparable temperatures (warm skis versus cold) the difference might be between the new sintered base and the old extruded.

The black base (usually containing about 15% graphite) can absorb about 15% less wax than the old transparent bases. Another reason might be a hard base: the harder, the less wax it can absorb.
post #4 of 7
Originally Posted by NZskier
As long as the wax wasn't smoking then your temp wasn't to high.
I used to believe that also, until I "got religion" from skidoc. He proved to me that even controlled heat like that can be bad for your base if it heats the base for too long a time. Now I only hot wax to impregnate a newly prepared ski, change temperature ranges drastically, or apply a special race wax. I only heat enough to leave a visible liquid about 2" behind the iron as it is moved along the base from tip to tail in about 12-15 seconds. This is repeated for only 4-5 passes so as not to heat the base too much.

After that, I avoid excessive hot waxing by rubbing on topical coats over my base wax unless changing wax temp ranges, etc.
post #5 of 7

See my post above - the iron should not be moved side-to-side on the ski (except very lightly in the beginning if necessary to spread the wax over the entire base edge-to-edge).

Watch the video at the Swix training site for more detail.

post #6 of 7
Don't clean your bases with alcohol.

I don't find "new" skis to be particularly harder or easier to wax than old skis. The skis are wider, I guess, but other than that it's pretty much the same old thing.

You can probably see the wax (whitish) against the black base more than you could against a white (or, more likely, clear) base. That's just a matter of visibility. You may have had the same amount of hardening wax sitting on your old skis, just no contrasting background to see it against.

Scrape after hot-waxing. Brushing is optional for recreational skiing, though I think it's a good idea.

As for chipping of the wax while scraping. I generally have best results if the ski is normal room temperature when I scrape. If it's colder, the wax tends to break off in chunks, etc.
post #7 of 7
Depending on the model ski you have chosen, it sounds like you may have an extruded base. These bases do not absorb wax, as they have no porosity. You may as well just use a nice rub-on program such as the WaxWhizard.
Expensive mid to upper range skis tend to have some type of sintered graphite base material. Generally, a price point of 349 or less will get you an extruded base.
If this is not the case, then your wax may be too hard, or it's just not melting evenly which will always leave a whitish mass or lines. If you work hard to eliminate this unmelted wax, you will most likely burn the base.
More is not better in this case. A proper stone grind is the only thing that can repair a burned base. Burning is always indicated by the appearance of light and dark patches along the running surface. Also, when scraping, the plexi-scraper will tend to drag along the base once you have scraped all the wax off. Base burning prevents future wax absorbption.
Very hard waxes should always be applied after the base has been pre-heated with a softer wax. It is then important to scrape off the majority of the wax while the ski is still warm, as it cuts down dramatically on shattering during final scraping and brushing.
If one is going to actually take the time to hot wax a ski it's very important to scrape ALL the wax off. Wax left standing on the base will do 2 things; make your skis feel base high, and create drag that will dramatically reduce glide.
The combination of occasional hot waxing using softer impregnating type waxes such as Dominator Graphite Base Renew, and daily topical application via rub-on, works extremely well unless you are a dedicated racer.
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