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P-Tex bonding?

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
I enjoy working on my skis, whether waxing and tuning or repairing the inevitable scratches and mini-gouges that occur from time to time. However, I have noticed that the p-tex rarely bonds with the base material and a day of skiing usually removes my repairs.

I try hard to heat the base with my lighter while "lighting" the repair stick, hoping for a better bond... to no avail.

Is there a method or technique to achieve a lasting bond?

Is there a "hot-glue gun" device used by shops that melts the base while applying the repair material similar to "soldering"? My hot-glue tool doesn't get hot enough to truly melt the repair material such that it "pools" enough to bond to the base.

Any of you shop gurus have any hints?

post #2 of 11
Get the base repair powder from toko http://www.tokowax.com/EngSeiten/EngAlpine.html

(Select "Professional" from the side menu bar, then select "Base Tuning" from the menu bar on top then scroll down to "Base Repair" section)


<FONT COLOR="#800080" SIZE="1">[ November 19, 2001 08:13 AM: Message edited 1 time, by VK ]</font>
post #3 of 11
Kuu sport used to make a p-tex iron (I think they still do). I have one and it works great. I used to have the same problem as you when I was burning it on but I haven't had any problems since I got the iron.
post #4 of 11
I have used the Toko powder with good results. Jonathan S mentioned an iron and co-polymer string from Tognar that work well.
post #5 of 11
There is a professional tool much like a glue gun that shops use. It probably is out of your price range if you can find one.

I use a simple tool from www.tognar.com that looks like a cheap soldering iron & it works pretty well. The toughest p-tex Tognar sells comes in a long string & is tougher than the candle p-tex. I go to my local shop and buy the p-tex they use in their gun since it is even tougher.

Before applying the p-tex I clean the base with a citrus based cleaner. The iron does a good job melting the p-tex but its hard to get a smooth surface using it which means you have to use a razor to even the base out then file it flat. None of my patches using this method have fallen out.
post #6 of 11
Make sure it's completely cooled off. Some wait overnight, but it may not be necessary. Single edged razor sounds like a good idea. One can use that cheese grater thing (forget the proper name) and push down in the center with a finger so that only a small part of it touches the ski base or else you'll make more scratches. Again, razor sounds good since you don't have access to a grinder or base scraper. The powder is another way. Follow directions closely in using it. Bases can't stand more than 248 degrees of heat. That's where it starts to break down from sintered into extruded molecular style base, and/or melts! ANyway, that's what I've read in Toko manuals and shop manuals.
post #7 of 11
One other thing, take into consideration the size of the scratches, some are too small to really hold patches well. Also to make fix well, clean the bases very well with either the citrus stuff or any base cleaner, Let the ski dry for 20-30 min to make shure all the cleaner has evaporated from the base. Now rough up the area to be repaired with anything that won't fall apart, (don't use ordinary sandpaper, the rocks fall off) Steel wool works well as does carbide sandpaper.
Now you can use a Iron to heat up the base a bit melt the P-tex and drip into the repair.
If you can use a pure P-tex as opposed to the drip candles, the candles are usually 30 or so % wax to allow it to melt easier, but this also makes it softer.
post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Thanks, guys!

Now all I need to do is decide which tactic to use...

Think I will buy Tognar's ptex iron and some ribbon.

post #9 of 11
Spyder hit on a big thing to help keep the repair in the scratch...clean the base. If you pick at the scratch with your finger, just your body oil is enough to keep it from holding. On the hill, I use candles only and repairs always hold. Try holding the candle closer to the base keeping the flame blue. this will help hold down the carbon if you're using clear, plus it helps to heat the area of repair.
Tognars iron is great, but my personal pref is the string instead of the ribbon, but thats me. Good luck.
post #10 of 11
I've had great results w/ the Tognar iron and repair string (mixture of ptex & expoxy) for big gouges. Smaller gouges I just ignore. I also have the repair ribbon, but never got good results w/ it - might just be my technique. Send me a private message if you want the ribbon for a few bucks.

One word of caution: the iron lacks an on/off switch, or anything else for safety, so be careful!
post #11 of 11
I've had pretty fgood luck with using the ribbon. It is much harder to use as it has a higher melting temp so it melt and smooth out as easily as the co polymer cord. The finish even witha lot of time end up not that smooth. And as its much harder than drip ptex and the copolymer its very much harder to get smooth. I bought the surform versaplane when I ordered my iron and well, its the only thing that I'm really disappointed with. One you can buy it any any big hardware store- its from Stanley and I find its hard to use in that can do as much damage as you just fixed. If don't put way too much excess then I think using the base flattener is a way better way to go.
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