Originally Posted by Answer
i am making parrafin bassed wax, no hydrocarbons.
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Originally Posted by newfydog
Teflon hasn't caught on. Graphite and molybdinum seem to do well in some some very cold conditions, as an anti-static, as well as in
Originally Posted by klam boy
2) im proposing a mixture of parraffin wax, powdered teflon (as lubricant) and possibly a hardener if i can find somthing. any suggestions thoughts or comments?
Originally Posted by sjjohnston
You're on the right track. So far as I can tell, ski wax is typically:
A - Mostly paraffin
B - Some synthetic hydrocarbon, added as a hardener in varying amounts for different temperature formulations.
C - Dye
D - Small amounts of various additives, which may include one or more of:
detergent or some other surfactant (Hertl)
molybdenum (Toko) or other strange stuff
If you limit yourself to A, B and C and don't bother with D, you've got a traditional hydrocarbon wax. If you fool around with D, things start to get more complex: e.g. flouros can take many forms, as can graphite compounds etc.
Originally Posted by comprex
It becomes a little more important with blends of different melt point; the higher melt point material will migrate toward the center, undoing your blending.
|I think the question was why would you want citric acid in a wax. In the production of biodiesel pH plays an important role in the chemistry of the hydrocarbon chains. If the pH is too basic the ethl or methl group will seperate from the chain and be replaced creating tri-glycerides (soap) the biodiesel can be reconstituted using an acid and turned back into a liquid. For many reasons high acidity is not desirable in the fuel but the concept should be similar. it would stand to reason that decreasing the pH (acidic) could change the physical and chemical properties of the wax (hydrocarbon chains) potentially yielding some liquid or a higher melting point or completely breaking down the wax.
This is why the citrus oil is a good degreaser/base cleaner as mentioned by GarryZ and BigE and not especially desireable in the wax itself...
Edit: Here are some links for more background on Biodiesel chemistry http://www.cu-biodiesel.org/webPRES/evan.htm
Originally Posted by sjjohnston
Teflon is a fluorocarbon.
At least some of the expensive fluoro powders you can buy are nothing but powdered Teflon.
1) Some of the previous posts stated that ski wax is 10% hardener, if this is true,
|what material(s) should be used as the hardener?|
|2) With respect to PNW conditions, what additive should be added to the wax? (e.g. Graphite, Fluorocarbon, Teflon, etc.) In what proportions?|
|3) What effect does detergent have on wax?|
Interesting thread. :)
I've been thinking about trying liquid paraffin for base prep. You know the kind that is used for wood in the kitchen, like cutting boards and so.
It seems to me like it penetrates well and is composed by the main ingredient anyway (hydrocarbons). I also would like to iron less, which makes it even better.
Btw, doesn't it seem like baby oil is also the exact same stuff?
With regards to ironing less:
This past season for several reasons (time and safe guarding skis mainly), I wanted to iron less. Mike de Santis of Precision Tune (www.skimd.com) turned me on to Ray's Way WaxWHIZard http://www.alpineskituning.com/raysway.waxwhiz.htm It makes tuning better from so many angles; iron way less, use way less wax and takes way less time.
The key is to cycle the wax in several times with an iron at the start of the season and/or after a base grind. After that, the wax is rubbed in using the waxshizard (WW) then scrape and brush. Since it goes so quick, you do this after (or before) each day skiing. I'm done waxing in the time it takes the iron to heat up.
It doesn't work for cold wax since you can't crayon them on. When it was super cold and I was racing (not that it mattered ), I would use of softer race wax to rub in with WW then without scraping or brushing , melt hard race wax on top. After cool down scrape and brush.
I put the softer wax down first to help protect the skis from the heat needed for the cold wax and once it was heated with the iron and cold wax, it made a decent blend (Toko grey and Maplus green).
As an instructor, I was constantly skiing and usually for a very long day. I used two pairs of skis and I typically would ski beer league Thursday, all day Friday, Saturday and Sunday. I would WW the skis Wednesday night, then again Friday or Saturday night.
I was very skeptical of the WW at first but learned to love it.
Hey. L&AirC, have you tried the hot-touch technique with the Whizzard yet?
(I think some waxes are just not meant to go with the whizard, Hertel HotSauce and Dr.D's white LF universal being two that come to mind almost instantly).
we use mineral oil for the cutting boards.
Not familiar with the "hot-touch" technique. Do tell.
I know hard/cold waxes don't work. If the wax won't rub on, you can't waxwhizard it in.