or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Has anyone climbed Mt. Baker?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Some friends of mine and I want to climb Mt. Baker in preparation for a Russian climbing trip. Can anyone offer suggestions for a guide? We would like to do a ski descent if possible as this is what we will be doing in Russia. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
post #2 of 8
If you have not seen this site it might be helpful: http://www.skimountaineer.com/Cascad...php?name=Baker
I can't give you any first-hand information.
post #3 of 8
I've climbed and skied it. You may want to note that the crevasses on this mountain are very real and need to be taken seriously, more seriously than you would on the "easy" route of any other cascade volcano with exception of complete climb+ski of Rainier going above 10K. As in, make sure everybody in the party has had some practice trying to catch a roped up fall while on skis (if you're skinning up) or on foot with crampons on. On the way down you'll want to be watching your up tracks to make sure you're not committed to traveling on terrain that you hadn't already weighted on the way up (you wouldn't want to have to be right on the uptrack cuz that's miserable skiing but you always want to be able to get back to it whenever you see a specific big sag that you know you already crossed up). Wear the harnesses and consider occasional roped shusses for sketchy crossings. Some of these precautions are less necessary if you hit it early, but this year I'd predict even by May 1 you'll be seeing the bergshrunds on the Roman Wall open up.

For guides (presuming you mean written guide, not a guide service). You'll just want to look at the "Red" CAG; it has the best information about the actual climb, but look at skimountaineer.com in terms of picking the best route for skiing. I skied the Coleman-Deming; the Easton-Deming is the other popular choice. The Park and Boulder are other skiable routes but require a lot more work and routefinding.
post #4 of 8
Wow thanks for the skimountaineer.com site. Gorgeous.


I've summited via the Coleman and it is a beautiful esthetic route. Enjoy
post #5 of 8
Originally Posted by wolfs
...On the way down you'll want to be watching your up tracks to make sure you're not committed to traveling on terrain that you hadn't already weighted on the way up...
FWIW, be advised that while greatly improving your chances, even this technique doesn't guarantee safety.

Many years ago, I was coming back down from the top of Ranier, staying within a foot or so of the uphill tracks I had made only a few hours earlier, and even so, I broke through. If I hadn't been quick with my self-arrest, or a bit less lucky, I likely wouldn't be here now.

Tom / PM
post #6 of 8

Baker via the CD in spring

I skied Mt Baker 5 times last year unroped. We carried ropes and gear but never reached a point where we felt that they were needed. We know the crevasse patterns, and, except on hot days, it can be straightforward early in the season. The snow at ski area elevations this year has been thin in the PNW, but above 6500 it is a normal snowpack and the Coleman Deming route should be safe until late June.

PM me if you want an accomplice.

(Not to start a flame war here. I notice that most folks on this board are rather timid, perhaps novices, at backcountry skiing. I am certainly not advocating that all folks should ski Mt Baker or any other PNW volcano unroped. But as a matter of fact, most backcountry skiers do not rope for the CD route in Spring, and after having climbed Baker maybe 30 times over the last forty years, I that feel I am within acceptible risk boundaries in doing this.)
post #7 of 8
Guest1: Agree. Myself, I never want to ski roped, or to even have it be a possibility. Even on the way up. If it looked like rope time based on widespread crevasses, I would have made that decision early on and probably just left skis planted in the ground and climbed it as a climb, roped, or bailed altogether. Original poster tho was considering this as a ski descent training trip for something in Russia. I have no idea about anything in Russia or how crevassed it might be. But there have been an average of about one person a year falling into Baker crevasses according to ANAM journals, so I thought I'd raise the point as guidance for the original poster that basically every ski route on Baker does have crevasses and they need to be figured into the planning, either in timing, how you travel, or both.
post #8 of 8
Skied Baker last Saturday. Ice to the top, good corn below. Crevasses not yet an issue.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home